i just replaced my oil pan gasket and now it leaks more than it did before. i took it off and then redid it but it didnt help...maybe that autozone gasket i got sucks? (felpro brand) i know the bolts/nuts arent supposed to be super tight..is there a method of putting the nuts/bolts on?

 

Find the torque specs of oil pan bolts and go from there. If you still have persistent oil problems it may not be the gasket or bolts. One time my friend scrapped a speed bump pretty bad and a week later I found out there was a small crack in my pan.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by htownteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i just replaced my oil pan gasket and now it leaks more than it did before. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Did you make sure none of the metal rings from the old gasket were on the studs?

 

Are you using silicon sealant around the gasket?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chiovnidca &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Did you make sure none of the metal rings from the old gasket were on the studs?</TD></TR></TABLE>

the oil pan uses a rubber gasket..and i made sure none of that was left on it...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ryanstev &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you using silicon sealant around the gasket?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea i tried that the second time...

 

don't tighten the screws too much other wise you'll squeeze the gasket out...tighten between 18-22 lbs i think.....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Deluzional &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Find the torque specs of oil pan bolts and go from there. If you still have persistent oil problems it may not be the gasket or bolts. One time my friend scrapped a speed bump pretty bad and a week later I found out there was a small crack in my pan.
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it could have a small crack but it would have to be near the studs and not the bottom because thats where the oil is dripping from

 

i have the specs...but i dont have a torque wrench

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by htownteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

the oil pan uses a rubber gasket..and i made sure none of that was left on it...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hondas gaskets have little steel rings molded in to keep the gasket from being crushed. They are hard to see sometimes.

 

oh really?? damn them so i need to replace those rings? or get rid of them if they are still there?

 

i think u should go and invest in a torque wrench. then try agian.. just my 2 cents

 

i guess i should

 

your oil pan might not be true.

Possibly from prying on it to take it off

 

The gasket torques to inch lbs not ft. . I have never used a torque wrench on them because its hard to get a inch lb. one . Check your pan rail and make sure the holes for the bolts havnt bent or dimpled in and only snug the bolts and dont use RTV on it . Oh and the stock Honda gasket is metal with rubber around it, does the autozone one have this ?

 

no...the autozone doesnt have the metal around it...but i dont understand why it didnt..i think it needs those metal rings

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by htownteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no...the autozone doesnt have the metal around it...but i dont understand why it didnt..i think it needs those metal rings</TD></TR></TABLE>

It doesnt need metal rings... OEM honda gaskets dont

There is a torque sequence to oil pans, your supposed to torque the 100mm bolts to 8ft/lbs.

If you torque them in the wrong seqeuence, or just "guess" your tighting the gasket in once place more then the other.

If you have a b20/b18a/b dont use any sealent, your not supposed to. However if you have GSR or type R then on the corners of the gasket where the oil pan curves, you are supposed to put sealent there. Make sure that the surface is clean and doesnt have any old gasket material and try to clean off all the oil.

Go buy an OEM gasket, torque to spec and in sequence and ull be good. Make sure to torque in 2-3 steps. First do it barely tight, then hand tight then 8ft/lbs to insure that all the bolts have even pressure on them. Its also important to note that its important that all bolts are clean of dirt and debris because the dirt will modify the friction point and give you inaccurate torque readings.

If you follow those steps, you will have a trouble free leak free oilpan gasket for years to come.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chiovnidca &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Did you make sure none of the metal rings from the old gasket were on the studs?</TD></TR></TABLE>

If the rings are left on the studs, the gasket will leak it's *** off. Remove them.

Spend the extra cash and go OEM......