Oil Filter Tech
02-10-2013, 05:14 PM
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Oil Filter Tech
So I was at the shop with a buddy today and he noticed that I had a bunch of the green “HAMP Synergy” oil filters on a shelf and asked about them. We started talking oil filters and got a little curious about quality differences in the two filters. The next logical step was to grab one of each, cut them open and see what was inside. We then decided to take the test a little further and cut open a few more parts store filters to compare to the Honda ones. I have always had a strong bias towards the blue OE Honda filters. I just recently started using the HAMP ones. This test was also inspired by the fact that a few years ago, Honda switched their oil filter supplier from Filtech (Dana/Wix) to Honeywell (FRAM). This little fact is a little concerning, as Fram filters are not known for their quality. So I was a bit curious if the stuff in Honda’s blue can was truly different from your average FRAM. Also(for the lawyers), I do not hold a Ph.D in oil filter engineering, everything I've posted here is purely speculative and based solely off of my personal observations and opinions.
I’m assuming that most of you have handled and installed more than a few oil filters in your lives, and no doubt understand their purpose; to filter oil. But I’m guessing many of you may not actually know how they work. So, before I go any further I think its important to explain the components of an oil filter and their functions. Below is a blown up diagram of your average oil filter.
Oil from your engine enters the filter through the smaller holes, where it is then filtered and returned into your engine via the larger hole in the center of the filter. Oil filters all perform the same task, but may do so in different ways through subtle differences in design. The main components are as follows.
Canister- the metal canister that seals the system and holds the other components in place
Baseplate- the bottom of the filter facing the engine, where oil enters and exits. Main features are nipple receptor (the threaded hole which screws onto the engine) and intake ports, which are the evenly spaced holes around the base.
Base Gasket- the silicon or rubber O-ring that provides a seal between the filter and your engine block
Bypass valve- a spring-loaded valve that opens if your filter media becomes obstructed too clogged to allow proper oil flow. If oil is unable to exit the filter, pressure builds up inside it. When that pressure exceeds the spring’s pressure, the valve opens allowing oil back into the engine. With the bypass valve open your oil is no longer being filtered, it is simply being returned to the engine to avoid a catastrophic failure due to oil starvation. The bypass valve needs to be able to effectively pass the entire oil flow, but shouldn’t leak dirty oil if bypass isn’t necessary.
Anti drainback valve- a circular diaphragm (flapper valve) at the entrance of the filter that keeps oil in the filter when your car is turned off. Without this, every time you start your car it would have to build enough oil pressure to send oil from the pan and all the way through your filter before reaching your valvetrain. Even just a few seconds of running without oil can cause severe damage to moving parts. This is made from either nitrile rubber or silicone. Silicone is generally seals more consistently and will hold is form better over a wide temperature range.
Filter Media- works just like an air filter to remove harmful metal shavings, foreign material, and particulate matter from the oil. The filter medium is generally made from paper or a similar material. I will also reference the “filter area” which is the amount of filter surface available to do the job. Less surface area means that clogging, and therefore bypass, will happen sooner.
Support Tube- a metal tube with holes that goes through the filter media to support it and help it retain its form, performs a similar task to the tube in a roll of toilet paper. The holes allow oil to flow through it.
End Caps- caps that cover the ends of the filter medium that keep the media’s folds or “pleats” in place. Metal end caps are stronger and generally considered superior to the cardboard alternative.
Tension Spring- a spring that pushes the “guts” of the filter against the baseplate to keep everything sealed despite dimensional changes due to an engine’s wide temperature range.
Now that you’re familiar with all of an oil filter’s components, I’ll get into the actual test. This experiment was completely a spontaneous result of boredom, so I didn’t spend much time developing my test criteria. Mostly it was just a visual inspection of each component. At this point, I’m wishing I would have taken apart and measured surface area of the filter media in each subject. The surface area of each filter can be visually deceiving. A filter with a small circumference and deep pleating can actually have more surface area than one with a larger circumference and shallow pleating. I may decide to check this tomorrow; I will make sure to post my findings.
From left to right the test subjects are:
HAMP Synergy “small” Part# H1540-PFB-515
OE Honda “Blue Can” Part# 15400-PLM-A02
FRAM “Extra guard” Part# PH3593A
WIX Part# 51334
K&N “Performance Gold” Part#HP-1004
*I chose to grab only 3 filters to compare from the parts store. After doing all this I’m a bit more curious than I was when I went shopping. So I may decide to add a few more if so inclined. I would like to check out a Bosch, Mobile1, as well as an Amsoil filter. I live in SE Wisconsin, and came very close to driving to King Motorsports and buying a $30 Mugen oil filter just to cut it apart (I may still do that).
ON TO THE RESULTS!
Subject No.1 OE Honda “Blue Can” Part# 15400-PLM-A01
$6 @ Honda Dealership
Pros-
- half round baseplate gasket (superior to others’ rectangular design)
- silicone anti drainback valve
-superior filter media looks more like woven fibers than the FRAMS paper media
-unique semi-labrynth antidrainback seal was the best of the bunch
Cons-
- stamped tension spring (but it does seem like a really good one, its made from tempered steel, not just bent sheet metal)
My Thoughts:
This filter is far better than the new "A02", which I failed to include in the test. It's a great design and priced only a couple dollars more than the FRAM.
Subject No.2 HAMP Synergy “small” Part# H1540-PFB-515
$12 @ inlinefour.com
Pros-
- filter media looked a little better than the blue can’s, I cannot say if its truly superiour
- half round baseplate gasket (superior to others’ rectangular design)
- silicone anti drainback valve
-everything that's good about the "blue can"
-Claimed oil pressure increase (unable to verify)
Cons-
- has Japanese character on it but says made in USA???
My Thoughts:
I bought a bunch of these filters to replace my stock of OE blue ones, but after this test I’m skeptical about them. They are marketed online as being designed for high performance engines, (See example http://www.inlinefour.com/honhamoilfil.html) but I really think this is nothing more than clever marketing. IL4 claims that the smaller size of this filter can increase oil pressure by up to 5psi, and that it will “last longer and filter better than any other oil filter on the market.” I have no way to verify the pressure increase, so I’ll give them the benefit of the doubt. But the claim that this small filter will last longer and filter better makes no sense to me. A smaller size means less surface area, less surface area means faster clogging. IL4 also claims, “Features include a unique release valve that dynamically adjusts to the conditions within the filter to keep the oil flow and pressure constant.” The release valve in this filter is EXACTLY the same as the one in the Honda blue can. It is my honest opinion that the claims by IL4 about this filter are complete nonsense. I don’t believe that this oil filter has any traits that make it worth twice as much as the OE blue can.
Subject No.3 FRAM “Extra guard” Part# PH3593A
$4.19 @ O’Reilly Auto Parts
Pros-
-cheap($)
-????
Cons-
-cardboard endcaps
-cheap (almost foil-like) support tube
-nitrile rubber anti-drainback valve that wasn’t held in place by anything
-hard plastic bypass valve with little contact area (leak prone)
-filter media looked/felt like corrugate cardboard
-stamped “outie” baseplate that makes the filter harder to install and easier to crossthread
-spacer instead of tension spring
My Thoughts:
Considering the price and FRAM’s reputation I wasn’t expecting much from this filter, and its quality compared to the others STILL surprised me. Everything just seemed so….cheap. I even tested the bypass valve by gently pressing down on it, the spring bound, and I had to pry it back closed with my finder nail. What if that happened while it was on your car? Many of the complaints I have about this filter, I also had about the Honda on. But with the Honda, things like cardboard endcaps, plastic drainback valves, and spacers were far better executed in the Honda design. I was dissatisfied with what I found in the Honda filters, but for a price difference less than $2, I can’t imagine why someone would opt to buy a FRAM.
Subject No.4 WIX Part# 51334
$8 @ O’Reilly Auto Parts
Pros-
-quality construction
-metal endcaps
-quality coil spring tensioner
-silicon anti-drainback valve
-very unique bypass valve that sits at the filter’s base and not at the end like all the others, I am assuming that this is so a filter “in bypass” doesn’t pull oil out of the filter and put it back into the engine.
Cons-
-I see no design flaws, but this filter has a significantly wider diameter than the others; which I don’t like for some reason.
My Thoughts:
I was truly surprised by the difference in quality this filter had over the OE Honda ones for only $2 more. The quality in construction just seems so much better. I have often heard people swear by WIX filters, and I now understand why.
Subject No.5 K&N “Performance Gold” Part#HP-1004
$14 @ O’Reilly Auto Parts
Pros-
-quality construction
-metal endcaps
-silicon anti-drainback valve
-best filter media of filters tested (from what my untrained eye can tell)
-nut welded to top of can for wrench removal
Cons-
-expensive ($8 more than OE Honda)
-Leaf spring as opposed to coil spring tensioner (still better than a spacer)
My Thoughts:
This was definitely a quality oil filter. K&N is a company that specializes in automotive filters and filtration media, so I would expect nothing less. A case could be made that this is the highest quality oil filter I tested, but I’m not sure that I could honestly say its worth $6 more than the WIX, which had a similar construction quality.
Summary:
From my observations on these 5 filters, I think the results should be pretty straightforward. Never buy a FRAM, the Honda blue cans are only marginally more expensive and far better constructed. From what I can tell the green HAMP filters have nothing to offer over the blue ones. Everything to the contrary is nothing more than hype and clever marketing. The WIX seemed slightly better built than the blue can (metal end caps), but as $2 more. The K&N filter had great construction (possibly the best) but was also the most expensive by a very large margin ($6). It is my opinion that from a “bang for your buck” perspective, the Honda "A01" is the best filter I tested today. When you’ve invested thousands of dollars into your engine, it would seem ridiculous to take the cheap route in protecting it.
I’m assuming that most of you have handled and installed more than a few oil filters in your lives, and no doubt understand their purpose; to filter oil. But I’m guessing many of you may not actually know how they work. So, before I go any further I think its important to explain the components of an oil filter and their functions. Below is a blown up diagram of your average oil filter.
Oil from your engine enters the filter through the smaller holes, where it is then filtered and returned into your engine via the larger hole in the center of the filter. Oil filters all perform the same task, but may do so in different ways through subtle differences in design. The main components are as follows.
Canister- the metal canister that seals the system and holds the other components in place
Baseplate- the bottom of the filter facing the engine, where oil enters and exits. Main features are nipple receptor (the threaded hole which screws onto the engine) and intake ports, which are the evenly spaced holes around the base.
Base Gasket- the silicon or rubber O-ring that provides a seal between the filter and your engine block
Bypass valve- a spring-loaded valve that opens if your filter media becomes obstructed too clogged to allow proper oil flow. If oil is unable to exit the filter, pressure builds up inside it. When that pressure exceeds the spring’s pressure, the valve opens allowing oil back into the engine. With the bypass valve open your oil is no longer being filtered, it is simply being returned to the engine to avoid a catastrophic failure due to oil starvation. The bypass valve needs to be able to effectively pass the entire oil flow, but shouldn’t leak dirty oil if bypass isn’t necessary.
Anti drainback valve- a circular diaphragm (flapper valve) at the entrance of the filter that keeps oil in the filter when your car is turned off. Without this, every time you start your car it would have to build enough oil pressure to send oil from the pan and all the way through your filter before reaching your valvetrain. Even just a few seconds of running without oil can cause severe damage to moving parts. This is made from either nitrile rubber or silicone. Silicone is generally seals more consistently and will hold is form better over a wide temperature range.
Filter Media- works just like an air filter to remove harmful metal shavings, foreign material, and particulate matter from the oil. The filter medium is generally made from paper or a similar material. I will also reference the “filter area” which is the amount of filter surface available to do the job. Less surface area means that clogging, and therefore bypass, will happen sooner.
Support Tube- a metal tube with holes that goes through the filter media to support it and help it retain its form, performs a similar task to the tube in a roll of toilet paper. The holes allow oil to flow through it.
End Caps- caps that cover the ends of the filter medium that keep the media’s folds or “pleats” in place. Metal end caps are stronger and generally considered superior to the cardboard alternative.
Tension Spring- a spring that pushes the “guts” of the filter against the baseplate to keep everything sealed despite dimensional changes due to an engine’s wide temperature range.
Now that you’re familiar with all of an oil filter’s components, I’ll get into the actual test. This experiment was completely a spontaneous result of boredom, so I didn’t spend much time developing my test criteria. Mostly it was just a visual inspection of each component. At this point, I’m wishing I would have taken apart and measured surface area of the filter media in each subject. The surface area of each filter can be visually deceiving. A filter with a small circumference and deep pleating can actually have more surface area than one with a larger circumference and shallow pleating. I may decide to check this tomorrow; I will make sure to post my findings.
From left to right the test subjects are:
HAMP Synergy “small” Part# H1540-PFB-515
OE Honda “Blue Can” Part# 15400-PLM-A02
FRAM “Extra guard” Part# PH3593A
WIX Part# 51334
K&N “Performance Gold” Part#HP-1004
*I chose to grab only 3 filters to compare from the parts store. After doing all this I’m a bit more curious than I was when I went shopping. So I may decide to add a few more if so inclined. I would like to check out a Bosch, Mobile1, as well as an Amsoil filter. I live in SE Wisconsin, and came very close to driving to King Motorsports and buying a $30 Mugen oil filter just to cut it apart (I may still do that).
ON TO THE RESULTS!
Subject No.1 OE Honda “Blue Can” Part# 15400-PLM-A01
$6 @ Honda Dealership
Pros-
- half round baseplate gasket (superior to others’ rectangular design)
- silicone anti drainback valve
-superior filter media looks more like woven fibers than the FRAMS paper media
-unique semi-labrynth antidrainback seal was the best of the bunch
Cons-
- stamped tension spring (but it does seem like a really good one, its made from tempered steel, not just bent sheet metal)
My Thoughts:
This filter is far better than the new "A02", which I failed to include in the test. It's a great design and priced only a couple dollars more than the FRAM.
Subject No.2 HAMP Synergy “small” Part# H1540-PFB-515
$12 @ inlinefour.com
Pros-
- filter media looked a little better than the blue can’s, I cannot say if its truly superiour
- half round baseplate gasket (superior to others’ rectangular design)
- silicone anti drainback valve
-everything that's good about the "blue can"
-Claimed oil pressure increase (unable to verify)
Cons-
- has Japanese character on it but says made in USA???
My Thoughts:
I bought a bunch of these filters to replace my stock of OE blue ones, but after this test I’m skeptical about them. They are marketed online as being designed for high performance engines, (See example http://www.inlinefour.com/honhamoilfil.html) but I really think this is nothing more than clever marketing. IL4 claims that the smaller size of this filter can increase oil pressure by up to 5psi, and that it will “last longer and filter better than any other oil filter on the market.” I have no way to verify the pressure increase, so I’ll give them the benefit of the doubt. But the claim that this small filter will last longer and filter better makes no sense to me. A smaller size means less surface area, less surface area means faster clogging. IL4 also claims, “Features include a unique release valve that dynamically adjusts to the conditions within the filter to keep the oil flow and pressure constant.” The release valve in this filter is EXACTLY the same as the one in the Honda blue can. It is my honest opinion that the claims by IL4 about this filter are complete nonsense. I don’t believe that this oil filter has any traits that make it worth twice as much as the OE blue can.
Subject No.3 FRAM “Extra guard” Part# PH3593A
$4.19 @ O’Reilly Auto Parts
Pros-
-cheap($)
-????
Cons-
-cardboard endcaps
-cheap (almost foil-like) support tube
-nitrile rubber anti-drainback valve that wasn’t held in place by anything
-hard plastic bypass valve with little contact area (leak prone)
-filter media looked/felt like corrugate cardboard
-stamped “outie” baseplate that makes the filter harder to install and easier to crossthread
-spacer instead of tension spring
My Thoughts:
Considering the price and FRAM’s reputation I wasn’t expecting much from this filter, and its quality compared to the others STILL surprised me. Everything just seemed so….cheap. I even tested the bypass valve by gently pressing down on it, the spring bound, and I had to pry it back closed with my finder nail. What if that happened while it was on your car? Many of the complaints I have about this filter, I also had about the Honda on. But with the Honda, things like cardboard endcaps, plastic drainback valves, and spacers were far better executed in the Honda design. I was dissatisfied with what I found in the Honda filters, but for a price difference less than $2, I can’t imagine why someone would opt to buy a FRAM.
Subject No.4 WIX Part# 51334
$8 @ O’Reilly Auto Parts
Pros-
-quality construction
-metal endcaps
-quality coil spring tensioner
-silicon anti-drainback valve
-very unique bypass valve that sits at the filter’s base and not at the end like all the others, I am assuming that this is so a filter “in bypass” doesn’t pull oil out of the filter and put it back into the engine.
Cons-
-I see no design flaws, but this filter has a significantly wider diameter than the others; which I don’t like for some reason.
My Thoughts:
I was truly surprised by the difference in quality this filter had over the OE Honda ones for only $2 more. The quality in construction just seems so much better. I have often heard people swear by WIX filters, and I now understand why.
Subject No.5 K&N “Performance Gold” Part#HP-1004
$14 @ O’Reilly Auto Parts
Pros-
-quality construction
-metal endcaps
-silicon anti-drainback valve
-best filter media of filters tested (from what my untrained eye can tell)
-nut welded to top of can for wrench removal
Cons-
-expensive ($8 more than OE Honda)
-Leaf spring as opposed to coil spring tensioner (still better than a spacer)
My Thoughts:
This was definitely a quality oil filter. K&N is a company that specializes in automotive filters and filtration media, so I would expect nothing less. A case could be made that this is the highest quality oil filter I tested, but I’m not sure that I could honestly say its worth $6 more than the WIX, which had a similar construction quality.
Summary:
From my observations on these 5 filters, I think the results should be pretty straightforward. Never buy a FRAM, the Honda blue cans are only marginally more expensive and far better constructed. From what I can tell the green HAMP filters have nothing to offer over the blue ones. Everything to the contrary is nothing more than hype and clever marketing. The WIX seemed slightly better built than the blue can (metal end caps), but as $2 more. The K&N filter had great construction (possibly the best) but was also the most expensive by a very large margin ($6). It is my opinion that from a “bang for your buck” perspective, the Honda "A01" is the best filter I tested today. When you’ve invested thousands of dollars into your engine, it would seem ridiculous to take the cheap route in protecting it.
Last edited by raytownracer; 02-14-2013 at 08:24 PM. Reason: fixing errors
02-10-2013, 06:34 PM
#3
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Oil Filter Tech
I've been extremely happy running the HAMP filters since 2009. I have cut one in half after my normal 5,000 mile oil changes and it looked brand new where it made me sad I changed them so often. They are also very sturdy in design compared to the others. The small canister really helps will oil pressure consistency. For those that don't know, Spoon has been using HAMP filters on their cars for this reason alone. But in addition to, they use a literal hose clamp on the outside of the canister to further reduce expansion and pressure loss.
02-10-2013, 06:51 PM
#4
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Re: Oil Filter Tech
Kudo for the effort but its been covered.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/general-discussion-debate-40/important-oil-filter-debate-2899575/
https://honda-tech.com/forums/general-discussion-debate-40/important-oil-filter-debate-2899575/
02-10-2013, 07:01 PM
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Re: Oil Filter Tech
Nice comparison test.
I've been using the K&N's from day one and I've always been very happy with them. I usually buy them from here: http://www.lightningmotorsports.com/.../i-136536.aspx at $9 a piece it's a steal in my opinion. I usually end up with over a $100 order through that company with in a one year period, so at that point, I'll buy 2 or 3 filters and take advantage of the free shipping on orders over $100.
I'd be interested to see if the mugen filter is just an oe honda filter in a different color.
I've been using the K&N's from day one and I've always been very happy with them. I usually buy them from here: http://www.lightningmotorsports.com/.../i-136536.aspx at $9 a piece it's a steal in my opinion. I usually end up with over a $100 order through that company with in a one year period, so at that point, I'll buy 2 or 3 filters and take advantage of the free shipping on orders over $100.
I'd be interested to see if the mugen filter is just an oe honda filter in a different color.
02-10-2013, 08:45 PM
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Re: Oil Filter Tech
Those -A01s are a truly superior filter, I haven't been able to find any for a long time, where do you get yours?
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02-10-2013, 09:19 PM
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Re: Oil Filter Tech
The Honda blue and green filter, not made by filtech no more, you can see it print on the side of the can "Honeywell" which is Fram parent company. Try pry open fram xtended guard filter, you will find it gonna look like those two hondas filter. Bosch oil filter now made by filtech, which is made the previous honda A01 filter.
But I use Fram Ultra (eventhough I'm AMSOIL dealer), which much better because it's no paper filter in there with all the quality thing you see from WIX (AMSOIL oil filter made by WIX). It just something I find out my self opening all this oil filter. Just no documentation, but you can google it now even youtube, bunch coverage now days.
But I use Fram Ultra (eventhough I'm AMSOIL dealer), which much better because it's no paper filter in there with all the quality thing you see from WIX (AMSOIL oil filter made by WIX). It just something I find out my self opening all this oil filter. Just no documentation, but you can google it now even youtube, bunch coverage now days.
02-11-2013, 12:27 PM
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Re: Oil Filter Tech
All this was thoroughly covered in the OP. Also, as you can see in the pictures, the Honda filters were far superior in construction to the FRAM I cut open. Did you even look at the post?
02-11-2013, 03:34 PM
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Re: Oil Filter Tech
Read again, Im not talking about regular orange can fram oil filter, I'm refer to " Fram tough guard" xtended life. Sorry, I must mistaken with amsoil "extended" campaign slogan.
08-18-2013, 09:15 AM
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I'm not surprised its been covered, looks like that guy did a good job. I did this mostly out of personal curiosity and decided to share my findings just so it felt like less of a waste.
Those -A01s are a truly superior filter, I haven't been able to find any for a long time, where do you get yours?
Those -A01s are a truly superior filter, I haven't been able to find any for a long time, where do you get yours?
08-18-2013, 10:13 AM
#15
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Re: Oil Filter Tech
People have been cutting open filters and comparing them on the internetz for years. While it may give some people piece of mind,ultimately it proves nothing substantial. A few years ago one of my trainers visited the Fram facility(along with several journalists,engineers,and instructors) He met a gentleman who to this day,has done the most comprehensive study outside of a lab that I have ever seen on oil filters on the internetz. Its a lot of reading and a lot of good info. You may be surprised at some of the results. Enjoy:
http://www.gmtruckcentral.com/articl...lterstudy.html
http://www.gmtruckcentral.com/articl...gradesheet.htm
http://www.gmtruckcentral.com/articl...nstruction.htm
http://www.gmtruckcentral.com/articl...lterstudy.html
http://www.gmtruckcentral.com/articl...gradesheet.htm
http://www.gmtruckcentral.com/articl...nstruction.htm
08-18-2013, 12:03 PM
#16
Re: Oil Filter Tech
what are guys thoughts on the Ktuned filter? I've used one during my break in but ended up scrapping it, the base got stuck on the motor and I had to use a giant channel lock pliers to remove it. but has anyone reviewed the quality of filtration?
07-08-2015, 11:28 AM
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Re: Oil Filter Tech
So I was at the shop with a buddy today and he noticed that I had a bunch of the green “HAMP Synergy” oil filters on a shelf and asked about them. We started talking oil filters and got a little curious about quality differences in the two filters. The next logical step was to grab one of each, cut them open and see what was inside. We then decided to take the test a little further and cut open a few more parts store filters to compare to the Honda ones. I have always had a strong bias towards the blue OE Honda filters. I just recently started using the HAMP ones. This test was also inspired by the fact that a few years ago, Honda switched their oil filter supplier from Filtech (Dana/Wix) to Honeywell (FRAM). This little fact is a little concerning, as Fram filters are not known for their quality. So I was a bit curious if the stuff in Honda’s blue can was truly different from your average FRAM. Also(for the lawyers), I do not hold a Ph.D in oil filter engineering, everything I've posted here is purely speculative and based solely off of my personal observations and opinions.
I’m assuming that most of you have handled and installed more than a few oil filters in your lives, and no doubt understand their purpose; to filter oil. But I’m guessing many of you may not actually know how they work. So, before I go any further I think its important to explain the components of an oil filter and their functions. Below is a blown up diagram of your average oil filter.
Oil from your engine enters the filter through the smaller holes, where it is then filtered and returned into your engine via the larger hole in the center of the filter. Oil filters all perform the same task, but may do so in different ways through subtle differences in design. The main components are as follows.
Canister- the metal canister that seals the system and holds the other components in place
Baseplate- the bottom of the filter facing the engine, where oil enters and exits. Main features are nipple receptor (the threaded hole which screws onto the engine) and intake ports, which are the evenly spaced holes around the base.
Base Gasket- the silicon or rubber O-ring that provides a seal between the filter and your engine block
Bypass valve- a spring-loaded valve that opens if your filter media becomes obstructed too clogged to allow proper oil flow. If oil is unable to exit the filter, pressure builds up inside it. When that pressure exceeds the spring’s pressure, the valve opens allowing oil back into the engine. With the bypass valve open your oil is no longer being filtered, it is simply being returned to the engine to avoid a catastrophic failure due to oil starvation. The bypass valve needs to be able to effectively pass the entire oil flow, but shouldn’t leak dirty oil if bypass isn’t necessary.
Anti drainback valve- a circular diaphragm (flapper valve) at the entrance of the filter that keeps oil in the filter when your car is turned off. Without this, every time you start your car it would have to build enough oil pressure to send oil from the pan and all the way through your filter before reaching your valvetrain. Even just a few seconds of running without oil can cause severe damage to moving parts. This is made from either nitrile rubber or silicone. Silicone is generally seals more consistently and will hold is form better over a wide temperature range.
Filter Media- works just like an air filter to remove harmful metal shavings, foreign material, and particulate matter from the oil. The filter medium is generally made from paper or a similar material. I will also reference the “filter area” which is the amount of filter surface available to do the job. Less surface area means that clogging, and therefore bypass, will happen sooner.
Support Tube- a metal tube with holes that goes through the filter media to support it and help it retain its form, performs a similar task to the tube in a roll of toilet paper. The holes allow oil to flow through it.
End Caps- caps that cover the ends of the filter medium that keep the media’s folds or “pleats” in place. Metal end caps are stronger and generally considered superior to the cardboard alternative.
Tension Spring- a spring that pushes the “guts” of the filter against the baseplate to keep everything sealed despite dimensional changes due to an engine’s wide temperature range.
Now that you’re familiar with all of an oil filter’s components, I’ll get into the actual test. This experiment was completely a spontaneous result of boredom, so I didn’t spend much time developing my test criteria. Mostly it was just a visual inspection of each component. At this point, I’m wishing I would have taken apart and measured surface area of the filter media in each subject. The surface area of each filter can be visually deceiving. A filter with a small circumference and deep pleating can actually have more surface area than one with a larger circumference and shallow pleating. I may decide to check this tomorrow; I will make sure to post my findings.
From left to right the test subjects are:
HAMP Synergy “small” Part# H1540-PFB-515
OE Honda “Blue Can” Part# 15400-PLM-A02
FRAM “Extra guard” Part# PH3593A
WIX Part# 51334
K&N “Performance Gold” Part#HP-1004
*I chose to grab only 3 filters to compare from the parts store. After doing all this I’m a bit more curious than I was when I went shopping. So I may decide to add a few more if so inclined. I would like to check out a Bosch, Mobile1, as well as an Amsoil filter. I live in SE Wisconsin, and came very close to driving to King Motorsports and buying a $30 Mugen oil filter just to cut it apart (I may still do that).
ON TO THE RESULTS!
Subject No.1 OE Honda “Blue Can” Part# 15400-PLM-A01
$6 @ Honda Dealership
Pros-
- half round baseplate gasket (superior to others’ rectangular design)
- silicone anti drainback valve
-superior filter media looks more like woven fibers than the FRAMS paper media
-unique semi-labrynth antidrainback seal was the best of the bunch
Cons-
- stamped tension spring (but it does seem like a really good one, its made from tempered steel, not just bent sheet metal)
My Thoughts:
This filter is far better than the new "A02", which I failed to include in the test. It's a great design and priced only a couple dollars more than the FRAM.
Subject No.2 HAMP Synergy “small” Part# H1540-PFB-515
$12 @ inlinefour.com
Pros-
- filter media looked a little better than the blue can’s, I cannot say if its truly superiour
- half round baseplate gasket (superior to others’ rectangular design)
- silicone anti drainback valve
-everything that's good about the "blue can"
-Claimed oil pressure increase (unable to verify)
Cons-
- has Japanese character on it but says made in USA???
My Thoughts:
I bought a bunch of these filters to replace my stock of OE blue ones, but after this test I’m skeptical about them. They are marketed online as being designed for high performance engines, (See example Honda HAMP Oil Filter) but I really think this is nothing more than clever marketing. IL4 claims that the smaller size of this filter can increase oil pressure by up to 5psi, and that it will “last longer and filter better than any other oil filter on the market.” I have no way to verify the pressure increase, so I’ll give them the benefit of the doubt. But the claim that this small filter will last longer and filter better makes no sense to me. A smaller size means less surface area, less surface area means faster clogging. IL4 also claims, “Features include a unique release valve that dynamically adjusts to the conditions within the filter to keep the oil flow and pressure constant.” The release valve in this filter is EXACTLY the same as the one in the Honda blue can. It is my honest opinion that the claims by IL4 about this filter are complete nonsense. I don’t believe that this oil filter has any traits that make it worth twice as much as the OE blue can.
Subject No.3 FRAM “Extra guard” Part# PH3593A
$4.19 @ O’Reilly Auto Parts
Pros-
-cheap($)
-????
Cons-
-cardboard endcaps
-cheap (almost foil-like) support tube
-nitrile rubber anti-drainback valve that wasn’t held in place by anything
-hard plastic bypass valve with little contact area (leak prone)
-filter media looked/felt like corrugate cardboard
-stamped “outie” baseplate that makes the filter harder to install and easier to crossthread
-spacer instead of tension spring
My Thoughts:
Considering the price and FRAM’s reputation I wasn’t expecting much from this filter, and its quality compared to the others STILL surprised me. Everything just seemed so….cheap. I even tested the bypass valve by gently pressing down on it, the spring bound, and I had to pry it back closed with my finder nail. What if that happened while it was on your car? Many of the complaints I have about this filter, I also had about the Honda on. But with the Honda, things like cardboard endcaps, plastic drainback valves, and spacers were far better executed in the Honda design. I was dissatisfied with what I found in the Honda filters, but for a price difference less than $2, I can’t imagine why someone would opt to buy a FRAM.
Subject No.4 WIX Part# 51334
$8 @ O’Reilly Auto Parts
Pros-
-quality construction
-metal endcaps
-quality coil spring tensioner
-silicon anti-drainback valve
-very unique bypass valve that sits at the filter’s base and not at the end like all the others, I am assuming that this is so a filter “in bypass” doesn’t pull oil out of the filter and put it back into the engine.
Cons-
-I see no design flaws, but this filter has a significantly wider diameter than the others; which I don’t like for some reason.
My Thoughts:
I was truly surprised by the difference in quality this filter had over the OE Honda ones for only $2 more. The quality in construction just seems so much better. I have often heard people swear by WIX filters, and I now understand why.
Subject No.5 K&N “Performance Gold” Part#HP-1004
$14 @ O’Reilly Auto Parts
Pros-
-quality construction
-metal endcaps
-silicon anti-drainback valve
-best filter media of filters tested (from what my untrained eye can tell)
-nut welded to top of can for wrench removal
Cons-
-expensive ($8 more than OE Honda)
-Leaf spring as opposed to coil spring tensioner (still better than a spacer)
My Thoughts:
This was definitely a quality oil filter. K&N is a company that specializes in automotive filters and filtration media, so I would expect nothing less. A case could be made that this is the highest quality oil filter I tested, but I’m not sure that I could honestly say its worth $6 more than the WIX, which had a similar construction quality.
Summary:
From my observations on these 5 filters, I think the results should be pretty straightforward. Never buy a FRAM, the Honda blue cans are only marginally more expensive and far better constructed. From what I can tell the green HAMP filters have nothing to offer over the blue ones. Everything to the contrary is nothing more than hype and clever marketing. The WIX seemed slightly better built than the blue can (metal end caps), but as $2 more. The K&N filter had great construction (possibly the best) but was also the most expensive by a very large margin ($6). It is my opinion that from a “bang for your buck” perspective, the Honda "A01" is the best filter I tested today. When you’ve invested thousands of dollars into your engine, it would seem ridiculous to take the cheap route in protecting it.
I’m assuming that most of you have handled and installed more than a few oil filters in your lives, and no doubt understand their purpose; to filter oil. But I’m guessing many of you may not actually know how they work. So, before I go any further I think its important to explain the components of an oil filter and their functions. Below is a blown up diagram of your average oil filter.
Oil from your engine enters the filter through the smaller holes, where it is then filtered and returned into your engine via the larger hole in the center of the filter. Oil filters all perform the same task, but may do so in different ways through subtle differences in design. The main components are as follows.
Canister- the metal canister that seals the system and holds the other components in place
Baseplate- the bottom of the filter facing the engine, where oil enters and exits. Main features are nipple receptor (the threaded hole which screws onto the engine) and intake ports, which are the evenly spaced holes around the base.
Base Gasket- the silicon or rubber O-ring that provides a seal between the filter and your engine block
Bypass valve- a spring-loaded valve that opens if your filter media becomes obstructed too clogged to allow proper oil flow. If oil is unable to exit the filter, pressure builds up inside it. When that pressure exceeds the spring’s pressure, the valve opens allowing oil back into the engine. With the bypass valve open your oil is no longer being filtered, it is simply being returned to the engine to avoid a catastrophic failure due to oil starvation. The bypass valve needs to be able to effectively pass the entire oil flow, but shouldn’t leak dirty oil if bypass isn’t necessary.
Anti drainback valve- a circular diaphragm (flapper valve) at the entrance of the filter that keeps oil in the filter when your car is turned off. Without this, every time you start your car it would have to build enough oil pressure to send oil from the pan and all the way through your filter before reaching your valvetrain. Even just a few seconds of running without oil can cause severe damage to moving parts. This is made from either nitrile rubber or silicone. Silicone is generally seals more consistently and will hold is form better over a wide temperature range.
Filter Media- works just like an air filter to remove harmful metal shavings, foreign material, and particulate matter from the oil. The filter medium is generally made from paper or a similar material. I will also reference the “filter area” which is the amount of filter surface available to do the job. Less surface area means that clogging, and therefore bypass, will happen sooner.
Support Tube- a metal tube with holes that goes through the filter media to support it and help it retain its form, performs a similar task to the tube in a roll of toilet paper. The holes allow oil to flow through it.
End Caps- caps that cover the ends of the filter medium that keep the media’s folds or “pleats” in place. Metal end caps are stronger and generally considered superior to the cardboard alternative.
Tension Spring- a spring that pushes the “guts” of the filter against the baseplate to keep everything sealed despite dimensional changes due to an engine’s wide temperature range.
Now that you’re familiar with all of an oil filter’s components, I’ll get into the actual test. This experiment was completely a spontaneous result of boredom, so I didn’t spend much time developing my test criteria. Mostly it was just a visual inspection of each component. At this point, I’m wishing I would have taken apart and measured surface area of the filter media in each subject. The surface area of each filter can be visually deceiving. A filter with a small circumference and deep pleating can actually have more surface area than one with a larger circumference and shallow pleating. I may decide to check this tomorrow; I will make sure to post my findings.
From left to right the test subjects are:
HAMP Synergy “small” Part# H1540-PFB-515
OE Honda “Blue Can” Part# 15400-PLM-A02
FRAM “Extra guard” Part# PH3593A
WIX Part# 51334
K&N “Performance Gold” Part#HP-1004
*I chose to grab only 3 filters to compare from the parts store. After doing all this I’m a bit more curious than I was when I went shopping. So I may decide to add a few more if so inclined. I would like to check out a Bosch, Mobile1, as well as an Amsoil filter. I live in SE Wisconsin, and came very close to driving to King Motorsports and buying a $30 Mugen oil filter just to cut it apart (I may still do that).
ON TO THE RESULTS!
Subject No.1 OE Honda “Blue Can” Part# 15400-PLM-A01
$6 @ Honda Dealership
Pros-
- half round baseplate gasket (superior to others’ rectangular design)
- silicone anti drainback valve
-superior filter media looks more like woven fibers than the FRAMS paper media
-unique semi-labrynth antidrainback seal was the best of the bunch
Cons-
- stamped tension spring (but it does seem like a really good one, its made from tempered steel, not just bent sheet metal)
My Thoughts:
This filter is far better than the new "A02", which I failed to include in the test. It's a great design and priced only a couple dollars more than the FRAM.
Subject No.2 HAMP Synergy “small” Part# H1540-PFB-515
$12 @ inlinefour.com
Pros-
- filter media looked a little better than the blue can’s, I cannot say if its truly superiour
- half round baseplate gasket (superior to others’ rectangular design)
- silicone anti drainback valve
-everything that's good about the "blue can"
-Claimed oil pressure increase (unable to verify)
Cons-
- has Japanese character on it but says made in USA???
My Thoughts:
I bought a bunch of these filters to replace my stock of OE blue ones, but after this test I’m skeptical about them. They are marketed online as being designed for high performance engines, (See example Honda HAMP Oil Filter) but I really think this is nothing more than clever marketing. IL4 claims that the smaller size of this filter can increase oil pressure by up to 5psi, and that it will “last longer and filter better than any other oil filter on the market.” I have no way to verify the pressure increase, so I’ll give them the benefit of the doubt. But the claim that this small filter will last longer and filter better makes no sense to me. A smaller size means less surface area, less surface area means faster clogging. IL4 also claims, “Features include a unique release valve that dynamically adjusts to the conditions within the filter to keep the oil flow and pressure constant.” The release valve in this filter is EXACTLY the same as the one in the Honda blue can. It is my honest opinion that the claims by IL4 about this filter are complete nonsense. I don’t believe that this oil filter has any traits that make it worth twice as much as the OE blue can.
Subject No.3 FRAM “Extra guard” Part# PH3593A
$4.19 @ O’Reilly Auto Parts
Pros-
-cheap($)
-????
Cons-
-cardboard endcaps
-cheap (almost foil-like) support tube
-nitrile rubber anti-drainback valve that wasn’t held in place by anything
-hard plastic bypass valve with little contact area (leak prone)
-filter media looked/felt like corrugate cardboard
-stamped “outie” baseplate that makes the filter harder to install and easier to crossthread
-spacer instead of tension spring
My Thoughts:
Considering the price and FRAM’s reputation I wasn’t expecting much from this filter, and its quality compared to the others STILL surprised me. Everything just seemed so….cheap. I even tested the bypass valve by gently pressing down on it, the spring bound, and I had to pry it back closed with my finder nail. What if that happened while it was on your car? Many of the complaints I have about this filter, I also had about the Honda on. But with the Honda, things like cardboard endcaps, plastic drainback valves, and spacers were far better executed in the Honda design. I was dissatisfied with what I found in the Honda filters, but for a price difference less than $2, I can’t imagine why someone would opt to buy a FRAM.
Subject No.4 WIX Part# 51334
$8 @ O’Reilly Auto Parts
Pros-
-quality construction
-metal endcaps
-quality coil spring tensioner
-silicon anti-drainback valve
-very unique bypass valve that sits at the filter’s base and not at the end like all the others, I am assuming that this is so a filter “in bypass” doesn’t pull oil out of the filter and put it back into the engine.
Cons-
-I see no design flaws, but this filter has a significantly wider diameter than the others; which I don’t like for some reason.
My Thoughts:
I was truly surprised by the difference in quality this filter had over the OE Honda ones for only $2 more. The quality in construction just seems so much better. I have often heard people swear by WIX filters, and I now understand why.
Subject No.5 K&N “Performance Gold” Part#HP-1004
$14 @ O’Reilly Auto Parts
Pros-
-quality construction
-metal endcaps
-silicon anti-drainback valve
-best filter media of filters tested (from what my untrained eye can tell)
-nut welded to top of can for wrench removal
Cons-
-expensive ($8 more than OE Honda)
-Leaf spring as opposed to coil spring tensioner (still better than a spacer)
My Thoughts:
This was definitely a quality oil filter. K&N is a company that specializes in automotive filters and filtration media, so I would expect nothing less. A case could be made that this is the highest quality oil filter I tested, but I’m not sure that I could honestly say its worth $6 more than the WIX, which had a similar construction quality.
Summary:
From my observations on these 5 filters, I think the results should be pretty straightforward. Never buy a FRAM, the Honda blue cans are only marginally more expensive and far better constructed. From what I can tell the green HAMP filters have nothing to offer over the blue ones. Everything to the contrary is nothing more than hype and clever marketing. The WIX seemed slightly better built than the blue can (metal end caps), but as $2 more. The K&N filter had great construction (possibly the best) but was also the most expensive by a very large margin ($6). It is my opinion that from a “bang for your buck” perspective, the Honda "A01" is the best filter I tested today. When you’ve invested thousands of dollars into your engine, it would seem ridiculous to take the cheap route in protecting it.
Jay Buckley
Technical Director
Fram Filtration jay.buckley@framgrp.com
07-08-2015, 05:10 PM
#18
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Oil Filter Tech
2 years old, certainly not an irrelevant thread by any means....
Last post was solid, and a good effort from the OP, especially acknowledging the lack of real filter knowledge.
One thing I can observe from filters I have seen is the frequent presence of metal debris!!! More specifically the threads inside. Take a look at any filter you get, and you will always always find metal chips and contamination ready to enter your oil galley.
Last post was solid, and a good effort from the OP, especially acknowledging the lack of real filter knowledge.
One thing I can observe from filters I have seen is the frequent presence of metal debris!!! More specifically the threads inside. Take a look at any filter you get, and you will always always find metal chips and contamination ready to enter your oil galley.
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MinimusMaximus
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
15
09-20-2011 08:47 AM