I have researched this a bunch still waiting for short block. But just wondering what course of action I should take since I'm doing the swap.
I'll be taking my h22a4 obd2 setup out and getting a completely different a4 small block from Golden Eagle.
I have p28 hondata s300, DW 420cc injectors high impedence, and am gonna swap dizzy to h22a obd1 td-60u haven't got dizzy yet.
I want to plan ahead once engine is out and I got the room but I'm kinda confused on what exactly is going on
so am I suppose to run the wires currently at the distributor down to the crankshaft.
Cause I thought the obd2 a4 had a crank position sensor/TDC down on the crank in the timing belt cover but it also has some sort of ckp? In the dizzy as well. I dont need schematics I will fend for myself there when I get more of an understanding. I'm gonna have to move what I got on my engine now to the new block and if it doesn't need something or does or just needs to move I need to understand this now trying to plan. And have read extending/splicing can lead to bad stuff so I would rather just pull shielding and Re route things where I need them and Re shield then start hacking. So some clarity on the 2, 3 , or 4 different sensor that this diy deals with and where they are gonna go would be a good start thnx. What I have gathered which is questionable please don't quote me is obd1 dizzy does not have any kind of sensor relating the crankshaft position to ignition timing. So those wires that went to the obd2 dizzy that did sense crankshaft position to ignition timing need to go to the snout side sensor.....I'm confused lol there is also the jdm td-61u external coil dizzy 92-96 should I get that one instead since I already have external coil? I want all the tunable ty I can and have read not swapping dizzys will result in ignition tables not being able tune if kept obd2

 

Do I need a h22 obd1 crank pulley...something about the amount of cog teeth are different?

 

if you are running obd1 you use the obd1 distributor and do nothing about the obd2 sensors.

the crank pulley does not have teeth on it, but the lower timing sprocket for obd2 has tabs used for the magnetic pickups of the obd2 located sensors that you would be ignoring if you are using an obd1 distributor and ecu.

 

So pretty much the other sensor wire/'s need to come up to the obd1 dizzy? except for the TDC? ... I have read a bunch but there usually switching an obd1 h22a to obd2. Cant really find a thread in my situation.

 

So the sensor wires in the wiring harness that run to the two sensors down on the crank need to be moved to the obd1 distributor. And I wont need to switch those sensors to the new block because the distributor houses them.

 

The new bare block I'm getting also has the oem a4 oil pump housing so how does that effect me. Anyone. Anyone?

 

If your prelude ecu is going to be obd1 you can use your stock obd2 distributor and just get a jumper harness for your ecu. It will run perfect with no cel. And you don't have to worry about the crank sensor on the oil pump because it won't be used.