dont forget to do a compression test to insure your cylinders can handle the extra n2o

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudeyKrus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OK, in dry kits like the Zex kit, you can't really go past a 75 shot b/c the jets only go up to that but the box can't be adjusted for the extra fuel needed.

I have heard of people throwin in bigger fuel jets somehow and being able to do it, but it seems like that's the unorthodox way....

Just to keep it simple, don't use a dry kit for over a 75 shot.

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http://www.zex.com/store/merch...ORIES

The .038 is your 75 shot for the dry kit. I also have the .043 that is listed on there, that is a 100 shot which I already have ran with my ZEX dry kit. I also have the .052 (125 shot) which I plan on tuning this Saturday. The .082 on there should flow about 180hp worth of nitrous, all DRY. These are not designed for use with a STOCK Honda motor. Fuel and engine modifications are required.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iain &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i regularily test spray at idle when in neutral to ensure the system is functioning correctly.
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You are just asking to break something. Nitrous should NOT be used when the engine isn't under load. Lemme guess the all-knowing Highpower Nitrous man himself, NOSwizard, told you to do this.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95civicgsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dont forget to do a compression test to insure your cylinders can handle the extra n2o</TD></TR></TABLE>
excellent idea

 

The best advice I can give you is to get someone in the know ie V8 guy, skinney old guy with a big white beard fast ******* car, you know the guy, to teach you how to read spark plugs. Then you can tune your engine right. It will take a while but its worth the work.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanCivic2000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You are just asking to break something. Nitrous should NOT be used when the engine isn't under load. Lemme guess the all-knowing Highpower Nitrous man himself, NOSwizard, told you to do this. </TD></TR></TABLE>
it's amazing how my stock engine has survived 3 years isn't it, what with all this bad **** you tell me i do to it.

i'm not talking about activating the nitrous continuously until it hit's the rev limit and blows up, that would be stupid (unless you have a spark cut rev limit also). or sticking a 125 shot through at 750rpm, where the volumetric flow of air is not enough.

other than the danger of that, there is NO DIFFERENCE using nitrous under load or not. i guess those people who powershift must be blowing there engines every pass eh?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iain &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
it's amazing how my stock engine has survived 3 years isn't it, what with all this bad **** you tell me i do to it.

i'm not talking about activating the nitrous continuously until it hit's the rev limit and blows up, that would be stupid (unless you have a spark cut rev limit also). or sticking a 125 shot through at 750rpm, where the volumetric flow of air is not enough.

other than the danger of that, there is NO DIFFERENCE using nitrous under load or not. i guess those people who powershift must be blowing there engines every pass eh? </TD></TR></TABLE>

If you are very careful and on a smaller shot you might be able to make it last awhile while doing this. The engine will rev up much more quickly when not under load. Try doing this idle test of yours with a 150 shot and watch your tach hit revlimiter before you can even blink an eye to let off the gas. I would never recommend this test to anyone, test your nitrous system with a good burnout before your race.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanCivic2000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you are very careful and on a smaller shot you might be able to make it last awhile while doing this. The engine will rev up much more quickly when not under load. Try doing this idle test of yours with a 150 shot and watch your tach hit revlimiter before you can even blink an eye to let off the gas. I would never recommend this test to anyone, test your nitrous system with a good burnout before your race.</TD></TR></TABLE>
a 25 shot revs the engine to approx 3000ish rpm from idle. and, like i mentioned in the previous post:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iain &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i'm not talking about activating the nitrous continuously until it hit's the rev limit and blows up, that would be stupid. or sticking a 125 shot through </TD></TR></TABLE>
this test gets performed everytime i reinstall the nitrous system, to make sure it is working correctly. after which i pull the spark plugs to check them also. it's not like you are stamping on the gas to fire the nitrous, you just flick the microswitch and watch the revs rise and fall.

and anyway, the point was that the only danger of having no load on the engine when using nitrous is that you may hit fuel cutout rev limit, and if you have a spark cutout rev limit, you're probably even safe then.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iain &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
a 25 shot revs the engine to approx 3000ish rpm from idle. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I thought you said you weren't hitting it at low rpm, what is your idle set at? You shouldn't activate nitrous below 3000rpm at all.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iain &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

this test gets performed everytime i reinstall the nitrous system, to make sure it is working correctly. after which i pull the spark plugs to check them also. it's not like you are stamping on the gas to fire the nitrous, you just flick the microswitch and watch the revs rise and fall.
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I thought you were an idiot, but you just now confirmed what I believed.

First off, tapping the nitrous in neutral is stupid, no if's and's or but's. If you have a spark-cut rev limiter from an aftermarket ignition, it's not nearly as harmful, but it's still a really bad idea (Wait till you have a nitrous backfire and it blows up your exhaust!).

Also, pulling the plugs after spraying nitrous at idle will NOT tell you anything; the engine was not under load, so it will not get very rich or lean, and will not be anywhere close to being able to tell you the condition by the plugs.

If you're gonna participate in a serious tech thread, at least try to know your sh*t first.

 

Well ok then. I appreciate everyone's help with my questions, and i think i WILL go up to the 75 shot as SOON as i get my timing retarded. THUS, it brings me to another question:

Do i retard, one or TWO degrees on the timing? I have heard some peeps say each, and once again, I'm going on circles. LOL

Also, to the TRUE tech enthusiast, what will be the best upgrades to do (Internally and externally) to my d16 to be able to handle the 100 shot in the near future? And how much would i be looking at to spend, EASILY?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanCivic2000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I thought you said you weren't hitting it at low rpm, what is your idle set at? You shouldn't activate nitrous below 3000rpm at all.</TD></TR></TABLE>
a say idle, really it's about 1500rpm

the 3000rpm value is some arbitrary limit based on peoples experience with honda engines. obviously a 3 litre v6 accord could spray safely at a lower rpm, and a 1 litre jazz wouldn't be safe until a much higher rpm, due to the volumes of air being sucked through

anyway a 25 shot to test the system has done no damage. i wouldn't activate below 3000 under load.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudeyKrus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I thought you were an idiot, but you just now confirmed what I believed.

First off, tapping the nitrous in neutral is stupid, no if's and's or but's. If you have a spark-cut rev limiter from an aftermarket ignition, it's not nearly as harmful, but it's still a really bad idea (Wait till you have a nitrous backfire and it blows up your exhaust!).</TD></TR></TABLE>
i guessed you missed the part where i said this. twice.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iain &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i'm not talking about activating the nitrous continuously until it hit's the rev limit and blows up, that would be stupid. or sticking a 125 shot through</TD></TR></TABLE>
quite hard to get nitrous backfire when you don't hit any rev limit isn't it?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ludeyperson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Also, pulling the plugs after spraying nitrous at idle will NOT tell you anything; the engine was not under load, so it will not get very rich or lean, and will not be anywhere close to being able to tell you the condition by the plugs.</TD></TR></TABLE>
my plugs go slightly darker when it's running correctly, and very dark when there is too much fuel (though i probably know this already from the rev test). i'll admit you can't tell if it's running lean from this test though, however by this stage i'll have already tested that my fuel solenoid is working. i must be special.