Ok, now i KNOW i'm gonna get all kind of replys and "do's and don'ts" with this question, but I'm gonna try and weigh the results in a manner of how many 'MORE' people say i can, or can't, do this.

I'm currently running a 50 shot of Nitrous just fine, but I don't wanna dive into a 75 shot not knowing the ACTUAL facts.Ok, I need someone with some serious Civic knowledge to really let me know can i run a 75+ shot on my 98' Civic EX. (SOHC)

Now I've been told my numerous people that i can run atleast a 75 shot pretty safely. Now, I'm running a NX WET kit if that has anything to with "if" my lil d16 can handle it. I think with the jets i'm running now, it equals to a little more than 50hp, since it's seperate jets. OR am i wrong? I also just got and installed a Air/Fuel ratio gauge to monitor the whole running "lean" problem. So, did that get me a step closer to being able to safely run a 75 shot??

I don't have much done to my engine, besides just really an intake. Also, i know i prolly SHOULDN'T run a 100 shot, but exactly what all would i just need to rebuild on the ol d16 in the future to be able to HANDLE the 100 shot?

 

the reason why wet kit is safer, perform better than a dry kit is that it got individual nozzles for each cylinder.

the concept is very close to mutliport fuel injection compare to throttle body fuel injection)

wet kit will give all four of your cylinder even share of Nawwwz instead of running lean on one cylinder and rich on the other, which happen all the time with the dry kit.
notice when you installing your dry kit's nozzle, the instruction said you should tapping it at least 6 inch from the throttle plate? that distance is actually allowing the cheating gas and air to mix up, what's the ten dollar word I am looking for? yes, atomize.

it's wise to invest a FPR(control fuel pressure), colder spark plugs(hopefully not start a flame front on a overheated plugs)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2+2=5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the reason why wet kit is safer, perform better than a dry kit is that it got individual nozzles for each cylinder.</TD></TR></TABLE>
that is not completely correct...there are some wet systems that come w/ one nozzle.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prelude2sin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that is not completely correct...there are some wet systems that come w/ one nozzle. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly, mine only has one nozzle.

If everything is installed correctly, functioning correctly, and your fuel is good, then yeah a 75 shot can be handled without a lot of problems, but I don't recommend it. I'd go ahead with some other form of engine modification such as a turbo.

 

just raise your f/p a little to be safe.it's better to run rich instead of lean when usuing the bottle.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2+2=5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the reason why wet kit is safer, perform better than a dry kit is that it got individual nozzles for each cylinder.

the concept is very close to mutliport fuel injection compare to throttle body fuel injection)

wet kit will give all four of your cylinder even share of Nawwwz instead of running lean on one cylinder and rich on the other, which happen all the time with the dry kit.
notice when you installing your dry kit's nozzle, the instruction said you should tapping it at least 6 inch from the throttle plate? that distance is actually allowing the cheating gas and air to mix up, what's the ten dollar word I am looking for? yes, atomize.

it's wise to invest a FPR(control fuel pressure), colder spark plugs(hopefully not start a flame front on a overheated plugs)</TD></TR></TABLE> I was under the impression a wet NO2 kit had 2 nozzles on to spray NO2 and one to spray gas( to eliminate a lean burn or knocking) and I wrong?

 

the guy is talking about a direct port system which has a nossle for each cylinder!
but a normal dry system has only one either the dry or wet only the wet has fuel and nitrous running trhough that the same nossle!
but if you want to run that high of a shot then as someone stated before you have to have good fueling just like you would have with a turbo car! and how is your system activated?
i would have a wot activation and also get a window switch(either mallory or msd)
so you can adjust where in the rpm range you start spraying, just start somewhere around 25-3000rpm and you should be safe!
but if you want to run a 100 shot i beleave you will need to get better pistons/rods and work your motor up a bit!
you also have to take into consideration that the nx kit has horsepower ratings to the wheels, many of the other companies don´t!
so a nx 50 shot kit is 50hp to the wheels while the others 50shot kits are just like 40hp to the wheels

 

Hmmm.... I think i'm gettin what you're sayin. And yes, i think it does have two different jets in the same line (Fuel/NOS). And yea, i have a WOT activated Sensor on my throttle body. Although, I usually simply have it floored and wait till i shift into second and above 3,000 rpms, and then i flip a toggle to activate the WOT and spray.

Soooo, all things equal, I CAN probably safely run the 75 shot on my SOHC d16???? And yea, i know about the wheel power specs with the NX. Gotta love em.

In fact, i think the 50 shot is actually like a 55 shot sense it's a wet kit. (Or so the box said)

 

First I would recomend that you only spray the 75 at the track, it wont be too good for day to day spraying....with that said, when running the 75 I'd run a 1 step colder plug and retard your ign timing 1-2 degrees. That will add a bit of a buffer for problems, the 50 though will be just fine. I've even heard of people using a 100 wet on my older d16a6 motors and such with good timing.

 

I used a 75 shot on my y7. The intake manifold is shapred different and has more even air distribution than your manifold. I had slight detonation at first, but I pulled out 2 degrees of timing and I was fine. Your intake manifold has bias aire flow toward the 3rd cylinder. When you install it make a run and check all your plugs for signs of detonation, the third one is important. Once your sure its fine youll be good. I never had any problems.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dave01 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Soooo, all things equal, I CAN probably safely run the 75 shot on my SOHC d16???? And yea, i know about the wheel power specs with the NX. Gotta love em.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I ran 75 shot dry with my stock Y8 for about a year. Then I decided to go with some forged internals and up the nitrous.

 

75 shot is nothin just do 2 degrees of ignition retard and get the 1 step colder plugs as someone already stated. also, contrary to popular belief, stock honda rods and pistons are pretty strong. a progressively controlled 100 shot on stock internals should be no problem with an adequate fuel supply. of course a direct port 100 shot progressively controlled would be even safer considering your manifold distribution issues

also, the size of the shot depends on more than the jets...it also depends heavily on your bottle pressure. but yes, if you don't use the jet sizes recommended by the chart, your shot will be different.

-marc

 

First off, make sure you have a good nitrous setup. Get a pressure gauge, a bottle warmer, and you have an a/f gauge.

Keep it a bit rich, so run a jet higher than you should. Retard timing a degree and run a step colder plugs. a 75 shot is the highest you should go on a dry kit; a wet and dry kit are relatively just as safe as each other, but the wet kits can be prone to fuel puddling.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudeyKrus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> a 75 shot is the highest you should go on a dry kit </TD></TR></TABLE>

That depends on what fuel upgrades you have. Much higher than a 75 shot can be acheived with some standalone engine management and bigger injectors.

 

Well, most dry kits won't let you go higher than a 75 shot.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudeyKrus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, most dry kits won't let you go higher than a 75 shot.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why wouldn't they? All you have to do is get bigger jettings, again assuming you have the proper fuel upgrades already.

 

Yes you could run a 75 shot on your motor. People will say you can run it safely which you can, but you have to remember its a type of forced induction anything can happen. with you running a micro switch on your throttle body that activates your nitrous at full throttle it has its pros and cons. Pro being when you switch gears it cuts off your nitrous for that quick second that your not in gear and on the gas. Con is if you miss shift and step on the gas not being in gear your injecting nitrous in to your motor not letting it burn up and com-bust. lots of times leading in detonation or in better terms blowing a part of your motor.

The different types of nitrous setups that the other people were talking about in this thread would be a dry system. Which is a nozzle spraying nitrous only. The nozzle is placed into the intake arm using the fuel from the injectors to combine and ***-bust in the motor. Which is why people usually turn up there FPR to help substitute for the fuel that the nitrous is going to need to burn correctly. Their fore without taking away any fuel from the motor it will need to keep from running lean. Now there are 2 types of wet systems the first is a single nozzle that sprays and mixes the exact amount of fuel for the amount of nitrous being used. The single nozzle is also placed into the intake arm just like a dry system is. For the second type of wet system their is direct port. Where each runner of the intake manifold has its own separate nozzle that mixes nitrous and fuel. This system is considered by most to be the safest. The reason is by placing a nozzle on each runner of the intake manifold each cylinder receives the exact same amount of nitrous and fuel. Unlike a single nozzle that is placed into the intake arm you can not be sure that the shot your spraying is evenly divided between each runner or most important each cylinder.

I hope this can help you out a little bit

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Skunk2whore &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">. Con is if you miss shift and step on the gas not being in gear your injecting nitrous in to your motor not letting it burn up and com-bust. lots of times leading in detonation or in better terms blowing a part of your motor.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

what? you're saying that when your car isn't in gear your engine isn't undergoing the normal combustion process? clearly that is wrong.
i regularily test spray at idle when in neutral to ensure the system is functioning correctly.

a mishift can only cause damage with n2o if you hit a lower gear and the ecu shuts down the fuel at the rev limiter, then you run lean and go bang. you can guard against this by getting a spark cutting rev limiter that is set below your ecu limit.

other than that you had sound advice

 

Ok, well just to add, I DO have the colder plugs,bottle warmer with press. gauge, and of course i mentioned the air/fuel ratio gauge. So as for all that, i have took care of it all.

And yea i have the ONE line WET kit. Me and some friends put it in, and if i remember right it had TWO different jets though. (N20/FUEL) It had a chart for the different combinations of jets per HP, but i can't remember off hand the combonation for the '75 shot'. But someone brought up actually TRYING to make it run RICH. IS THIS THE RIGHT THING TO DO??!!???!! And if so, how would i? But a bigger 'fuel' jet in than is called for?

So, i'm guessin all that's left for me to do is just simply retard the timing 2 degrees right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dave01 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">But someone brought up actually TRYING to make it run RICH. IS THIS THE RIGHT THING TO DO??!!???!! And if so, how would i? But a bigger 'fuel' jet in than is called for?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

either a bigger fuel jet or an afpr

 

i have an nx wet kit sitting on the floor next to my computer right now, which i will also run on my sohc vtec. i have a fpr, bottle pressure guage, purge, zex turbo/nitrous plugs, msd wires and new cap and rotor... i plan on getting a fuel rail(for engine bling purposes ) a bigger fuel pump cause i might go turbo later on, a/f guage and some sort of tuning like vafc. make sure that you dont hit rev limit while spraying or u go lean and boom! (im gonna make my rev limit retartedly high so i dont have to worry about that). if you use it correctly you should be ok with the 75.. and yes its better to run a little rich to avoid problems than running lean, just keep in mind that your car will be running rich even when u arent spraying.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just keep in mind that your car will be running rich even when u arent spraying. </TD></TR></TABLE>

if you bump fuel pressure with a afpr yes. if you just use a bigger fuel jet in line then it will only run rich when your spraying.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iain &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

what? you're saying that when your car isn't in gear your engine isn't undergoing the normal combustion process? clearly that is wrong.
i regularily test spray at idle when in neutral to ensure the system is functioning correctly.

a mishift can only cause damage with n2o if you hit a lower gear and the ecu shuts down the fuel at the rev limiter, then you run lean and go bang. you can guard against this by getting a spark cutting rev limiter that is set below your ecu limit.

other than that you had sound advice</TD></TR></TABLE>


Not sure what kind of shot your running that you test it at idle but i would not recommend it. IF it works for you thats cool , its just Ive seen multiple motors blow up that way. Also i was talking about mishifting when using nitrous that can cause damage thats what the whole topic was about. Also a mishift when using nitrous isn't the only time you cause damage. If you miss shift just on the motor you can hurt something , you could jump timing , break timing belt which could all lead to bending valves , or blowing your head.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92 civic VX B18c &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I was under the impression a wet NO2 kit had 2 nozzles on to spray NO2 and one to spray gas( to eliminate a lean burn or knocking) and I wrong?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Most go 2 into one before it reaches the intake air! Wet has a gas mixture, dry is just nitrous! The direct port nitrous systems get pretty spendy If i remember correctly!

 

OK, in dry kits like the Zex kit, you can't really go past a 75 shot b/c the jets only go up to that but the box can't be adjusted for the extra fuel needed.

I have heard of people throwin in bigger fuel jets somehow and being able to do it, but it seems like that's the unorthodox way....

Just to keep it simple, don't use a dry kit for over a 75 shot.

And yes, if you spray in neutral and you don't have an aftermarket ignition, then it will prob. damage your motor. When you spray in idle, there is no load on the motor to keep it from overrevving, so it goes STRAIGHT to the revlimiter; the stock rev limiter only cuts the fuel, so when you hit the rev limiter, you will encounter an extremely lean condition *which is the worst thing you can have when spraying nitrous*