I just swapped in a 2000 B18B into a 99 Civic lx. The problem is that the ecu has an immobilzer. Should I a) get the immobilzer removed or b) get a 00 jdm ecu or c) get a usdm 99 b18b ecu and do a obd 2.2 to obd 2 conversion or d) go obd 1. I want to keep my car smog legal, so i'm not sure if i can go wit option D. I really need some advice. Thanks!

 

I would say that if you do not want to go with option D (my 1st choice) then go with A which is the simplest of them all.

 

Have the 00 LS ecu modified without the immobilzer

 

The only problem is that if the immobilizer gets removed, it won't throw codes anymore, and I won't know if there is anything wrong with my engine. But looks like i have no choice. Anyone else?


[Modified by youngkow, 6:24 PM 12/5/2002]

 

A disabled immobilizer will not prevent the ECU from reporting trouble codes.

 

Not that I'm questioning your knowledge, but are you positive? They will be actually removing the immobilizer chip. Anyways, thanks!

 

D man,

 

What you will end up with is a check engine light that is on all the time. With a code for the immobilizer, the ECU will still function totally normally (not in limp mode, full normal power). However, the engine will still pick up codes when there is a failure. You'll just have to check from time to time to see if there are any codes other than the immobilizer. You won't know when there's a new code without checking from time to time.

 

Ok. Thanks a lot guys. Guess I will get the immobilizer removed.

 

Got the immobilzer removed, but my ecu is not throwing any codes. Not too sure if I'm doing it right thow. According to the service manual, there is a plug near the main harness that I just need to jumper. Can anyone verify that? Thanks.

 

The plug to jump for checking the codes (which will flash on your instrument cluster) is a blue 2 pin plug that is held inside a green rubber housing, just above where the ECU sits. Put a jumper wire in the plug (its sometimes quite tough to get the wire in, and to make sure you're getting good contact), and turn on the key, and if there are any codes, they will flash on the cluster. If there are none, the engine light will just stay on constant, till you take off the jumper.

When you turn on the ignition key without any jumper, does the engine light come on for 5 seconds and prime the fuel pump like normal?

 

That doesn't do much good.... Besides him having a non VTEC motor... he would have to run a OBD2a to OBDb conversion harness... That's just extra work...

 

Yes it does. And it just stays on. But i tried testing and I unplugged my IAT, and it didn't throw a code. I know i got a good contact, because i pulled the plug out of the rubber housing and stuck the jumper in that way. Anyways, I really appreciate everyones help. Thanks.

 

Are you saying that the check engine light just stays on when you turn on the key? Depending on which sensor it is, the ECU won't always report a code instantly when you unplug it. I know the VSS takes quite alot of driving, even though your speedo is not working. Usually takes about 15-20 minutes of driving before the ECU reports the trouble (for the VSS).