NEED HELP! Stupid header doesnt fit. The frustration continues.
Kill me. I gotta do a smog test so I need 2 frickin O2 sensors, each one on only 2 cylinders as is the stock setup on a first gen b16a. Please kill me. I have a 90 integra. I had the 4-1 B18a header on there and today i tried to swap it out with the b16a header. The frikin thing gets in the way of that support bar that goes down the center of the engine comparment. Just kill me now. Do I need that bar? I dont really want to remove any parts of the frame since my car is lowered unless its really safe to do so.
So what are my options? I cant find a header that will work and i need 2 O2 sensors so the car will run with the right fuel mixture. This is the one problem I have never ever ever ever seen a solution to. How in the hell do i get a header with 2 O2 senors, 1 for cylinders 1 and 3, the other 2 and 4 that fits in a 90 integra?
[Modified by erniecars, 6:31 AM 7/20/2002]
So what are my options? I cant find a header that will work and i need 2 O2 sensors so the car will run with the right fuel mixture. This is the one problem I have never ever ever ever seen a solution to. How in the hell do i get a header with 2 O2 senors, 1 for cylinders 1 and 3, the other 2 and 4 that fits in a 90 integra?
[Modified by erniecars, 6:31 AM 7/20/2002]
So you've got a DA Integra with a first gen b16a motor in it... I can't see a problem there... get a factory header from a DA integra that came with a b16a standard...
Problem solved.
Problem solved.
I have the one that came with the motor but it must be for a civic or something. Ive looked for months now and I still cant find the factor header. Doesnt anyone make a header for this application? Its not that uncommon.
All the 4-1s that I know of have and single o2 sensor bung in the collector. I welded 2 o2 sensor bungs on my JDM ITR 4-1 (cylinders 3-4) and sealed up the bung in the collector for my 1st gen. B16a setup. You could splice the 2 o2 sensor wires into 1 in the meantime but the car will hesitate on light throttle.
When you refer to the support bar I'm guessing the cross-member? I had to take out a chunk of the cross member to fit the 4-1, but if you have the stock B16a DA 2-piece exhaust manifold, you should be fine.
HTH
When you refer to the support bar I'm guessing the cross-member? I had to take out a chunk of the cross member to fit the 4-1, but if you have the stock B16a DA 2-piece exhaust manifold, you should be fine.
HTH
1-wire o2 sensors don't have an internal heater like the 3 or 4-wire o2 sensors. Hence they have to be closer to the exhaust ports for them to work properly.
Good point, I hadn't even considered the location needs of the unheated sensors.
As for the original question, I'm sure Dave at SMSP could build you a header that would fit your car, have the proper 02 locations, and perform extremely well. It all depends on how much you want to spend and how long you want to wait for it. I know Dave has a bit of a wait for his headers (though well worth it).
The other option, like Lyonel said, would be to modify an off-the-shelf header of your choice to accept two O2's near the ports. I believe RS*R also made a header for first-gen B16a's that incorporated two 02 sensors in the proper locations, but finding one of those might be difficult.
As for the original question, I'm sure Dave at SMSP could build you a header that would fit your car, have the proper 02 locations, and perform extremely well. It all depends on how much you want to spend and how long you want to wait for it. I know Dave has a bit of a wait for his headers (though well worth it).
The other option, like Lyonel said, would be to modify an off-the-shelf header of your choice to accept two O2's near the ports. I believe RS*R also made a header for first-gen B16a's that incorporated two 02 sensors in the proper locations, but finding one of those might be difficult.
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This sounds like a familiar problem that faces me as well..Can't find a decent that fits like stock or works with one-wire lambda's..
Supersprint Italia is also one of the few manufacturars which sell B16a1 headers with ofcoz the two lambda probes at the correct positions.. It's expensive though..
Supersprint Italia is also one of the few manufacturars which sell B16a1 headers with ofcoz the two lambda probes at the correct positions.. It's expensive though..
The easiest solution I can think of is to get a dc 4-2-1 header and put the O2 bungs after the first Y's. That way its monitoring exactly like stock and the O2 sensors are still close enough to warm up fast. The only question still in my mind is whether its important to have the O2 sensors in the stream of 2 exahust ports or is it ok to just have them each on one like lyonel did? I guess I dont know enough about how the sensors work. Also, does it matter which O2 sensor is which?
Normally on dc header, the O2 bung is always right at the collector so it takes a bit longer for the sensor to heat up but its not that big of a deal.
Lyonel- I saw your website. I took out that center support that goes down the middle of the engine bay. Have you had any problems with yours off? I wasnt sure if its important to the suspension or anything.
[Modified by erniecars, 12:21 PM 7/22/2002]
Normally on dc header, the O2 bung is always right at the collector so it takes a bit longer for the sensor to heat up but its not that big of a deal.
Lyonel- I saw your website. I took out that center support that goes down the middle of the engine bay. Have you had any problems with yours off? I wasnt sure if its important to the suspension or anything.
[Modified by erniecars, 12:21 PM 7/22/2002]
I've had my o2 sensor setup like this for 4 months, no problems. Another alternative I was looking into was to splice both o2 sensor wires into 1 and utilise a 3-wire o2 sensor. That way you can place the heated o2 sensor into the collector and not worry about welding new bungs into your 4-1.
You need the cross-member there or else your car will drive like an old man that's dying for a ****.
You need the cross-member there or else your car will drive like an old man that's dying for a ****.
You need the cross-member there or else your car will drive like an old man that's dying for a ****.
I am not talking about the front or rear cross members, not the one you cut (3 in pic). I am talking about that bar that goes down the center of the engine bay, which is number 1 in the picture and it is called the center beam. In your pictures its not there so assumed you took it off unless the Xsi does not have one to begin with but my DA9 did and I had to take it off in order to fit the stock b16a1 exhaust manifold.
[Modified by erniecars, 8:16 AM 7/23/2002]
My bad. All the time I thought you were referring to the cross-member
You're right, my XSi doesn't have it. I don't know what it's for actually... some kinda brace???
You're right, my XSi doesn't have it. I don't know what it's for actually... some kinda brace???
If it is nuber 3 in the pic, the front cross member, there is a company that sells tubular race versions that take up much less space, im not sure of the company ill have to find out.
My bad. All the time I thought you were referring to the cross-member
You're right, my XSi doesn't have it. I don't know what it's for actually... some kinda brace???
You're right, my XSi doesn't have it. I don't know what it's for actually... some kinda brace???
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