Updated 10/28/09 at bottom of first post....

So here's the the background story:
-Basically being a dumba** and when i let go of one of the battery cables it touched the
opposite side one was already laid against the wrong side, and the other fell at the right
angle.

-I blew the Main fuse, and MSD ignition system (MSD AL and blaster SS smoked).

-I took every wire out with the wires, replaced the 6AL and Blaster SS and the wires
containing them and installed new connections. I have checked and rechecked the
wiring and everything is correct to my knowledge.

-The only thing I havent replaiced are the coil wire from the blaster to the Distributor and
distributor itself.

The issue:
-misfires when it hits 12psi. (I normally run 16psi and had to install the MSD so I can run
over 12psi) and problem started after everything smoked.


I have only onte ideas what it could be:
1) I never replaced the Blaster to Distributor wire, just the end that basically didn't exist after the issue (or before, not too sure).
2) Distributor went bad during crossing wires?
3) some wire or soder went bad that is underneath a rubber seal that I can't see

The picture below i have orange and black going to the blaster SS as shown. (these are the only wires that come out of the 6AL NOT in the black casing containing 4 wires)
I have the individual red/black going to the Battery + and a ground spot (OEM Strut bolt)
the red/white going to the distributor.

I have checked/rechecked the wiring on this.




Any thoughts?



UPDATE
-Spark is there from the MSD, i felt it run through my arm, so i know its there
-voltage reads good on the distributor wires, ignitor wires and everything
-New plugs (NGK step colder than stock) gapped down to about .022 due to high boost

NOTHING....

Is it true that if the ignitor goes bad you won't be able to turn the car over?
Could it be a leak, wiring, MAF, vacuum line issue? (Wouldn't any of those cause it to spike, drop, or not boost at all?)

HEEELLLLPPP!

 

It's driving me nuts! Could something like that travel through the wires and burn up the distributor? or the soders?

Could that electrical backcharge burn up the MSD coil wire from the blaster SS to the distributor?

Is there any way to test any of this?

 

I would definitely replace the coil to distributor lead, if it was burnt at coil end...
"I never replaced the Blaster to Distributor wire, just the end that basically didn't exist after the issue"
the lead itself may have been damaged, the resistance of the lead can be checked with a multimeter to see if it is still within spec, but just as easy to replace.

Damage may also have been done to cap and rotor or even the ICM. 94

 

Okay, so I will check the wire soder on the distributor under the cap....
When you say the lead.... What do you mean? The wire as a whole with ends also?

Also when you say damage to the ICM, wouldn't that cause it to misfire under regular conditions? Because it does not misfire under regular conditions, only when i hit 12psi. This has to mean that something with the MSD isn't running correctly? right?

So doesn't that limit it to the three items I discussed?
1- the wire between the cap and blaster SS
2- the distributor cap and/or rotor
3- some connection issue on wires inside the cap?

 

Ok,
So i tested the spark on the ignition system, and there is spark and 12v on the white wire on the MSD, so it is not the MSD....

I adjusted some wires, and plan on driving it, if i can get the battery charged tonight.... hopefully within the hour...

If its still not it, doesnt that basically mean its the ignitor on the distributor (the little black piece that has the wires connected to it from the MSD ignition)?

 

Ok, so i drove it today and it still misfires at 12psi.
I checked the voltage on the ICM, and everything clears out well and there is voltage to every wire on the ICM, does that mean i need to replace it?

Also where is a good place to buy one, for cheaper? so far the cheapest i found is $180something....

 

Because your problem is intermittent, testing is difficult, it has to be failing when testing.
Because it can't hurt to install a new ICM and keep the old one as a spare, [if ICM is not the problem] it is probably the easiest way to troubleshoot at this point.
If it is the problem, it's fixed, if it's not the problem, you have a spare, [working] ICM, you can't really lose. 94

 

that is true, I think what I will do first is check spark plugs and wires first, making sure there is no carbon between the electrode and ground... plus I remembered they are pretty old anyway....

I think I may try to replace them first, just to check the cheap fix first (since I need to do it anyway) and then if that doesn't fix it probably try the ICM/Dizzy

 

Checked for spark, and spark is there from the MSD, voltage reads good on everything on the distributor, and on the ignitor..... I'm clear there....

I also replaced the spark plugs with some NGK's step colder than stock, gapped them down to about .022, due to the higher boost (I had them there before so no change there) the old one's didn't look too bad, but were old....

Still only runs to 12psi, my last guess is a wiring, vacuum, or leak somewhere, or it is definitely something on the distributor.....

Someone from Honda told me though that if the ignitor goes bad, you won't be able to turn the car over, is that true?

Do you think it could be something with the tune? even though nothing has changed?
HEEELP!