I finally got around to getting a new tps. I did not set the tps exactly at .45 its about .44 and WOT is like 4.3 Anyway the car drives good and doesnt make excessive popping sounds untill after driving the car a few times and shutting it on and off a few times. After that point it starts making excessive popping sounds and while I shift into gears it stays at the peak rpm for a second or two before making its way down to before I shift into the next gear. I got annoyed so I unplugged the tps again. This morning I decided to try again and drove for about 30 mins without having the rpm peak problem but was still having popping sounds once and awhile. Does anyone know whats going on? I rechecked my timing and put it to factory specs. I also opened up the throttle a bit to see if that would help. I am stumped at this point and cant think of anything else. I also do not have any codes and I changed 2 coolant lines because I wasnt getting a constant temp, meaning the temp would be at one point for awhile and either move up or go down(temp gauge). At this point the car is at factory specs from what I've tested except the tps being off like.01 volts. When the car is cold it has no problem with driving but once its at operating temperature, all hell breaks loose. I seriouls hope someone can point me to the right direction. TIA for your help and guidance to anyone who takes the time out to help me on this problem!

 

to the top... If I cant figure this out soon I'm just gonna let a shop take care of it...

 

First of all, the TPS should read .5 volts when it's CLOSED. WOT should read no less than 4.5 volts.

Here's a pic from the HELMS to erase any doubts you may have...



Also you should reset your ECU after you make the TPS adjustment. (remove HAZARD fuse, and also ECU fuse in the enginebay fusebox)

 

so do you recommend that I adjust it to .5 volts? I thought it was .45 volts?

 

.5 volts with the throttle closed. Verify a smooth increase in voltage up to 4.5 @ WOT.

 

thanks much for the diagram Mrtodd... hopefully when the rain dies down here I can adjust it.. I'll keep yah posted! Thanks again!

 

**UPDATE** I now have the tps set to .5v at idle and 4.4v at WOT. All I did was a MPFI swap and I dont understand why i'm having this problem. The car continues to run rich. I still have the same symptoms as I described earlier. I dont understand whats going on. This is starting to **** me off.

 

ttt cuz I still cant figure this out..

 

Hmm... Yeah, I'm really starting to think that you should give the car a full tune-up. Other than the common ignition stuff (cap/plug/wire), replace the O2 sensor, fuel filter, PCV valve and double check the ignition timing and cam timing. You're still using the DX head w/DX cam, right? Also clean out the intake manifold and T/B with carb spray.

On top of all of this - check your grounds! (actually, you should upgrade them) Make sure the battery terminals aren't corroded, and then check the positive battery wires (2, connects to the fuse box, and the starter), then check the negative battery wires (goes to the chassis, and then to the tranny). Then of course, check the valve cover ground and the thermostat housing ground.

I know all of this is a PIA, but I really think these are good places to check for the symptoms you are describing!

Good Luck!

EDIT: Here is a link for the ignition timing - http://www.binghamtonlife.com/...8.jpg

Here's the link for the cam timing - http://www.binghamtonlife.com/...6.jpg

HTH

 

Thanks MrTodd... I think it may be the O2 sensor then. When I first did the MPFI swap I did not have the tps hooked up and drove like this for about a month. You think because me running rich I may have screwed up the O2 sensor and possibly the cat? I have this funny feeling its the O2 sensor but I dont want to spend the money unless I am 100% sure that its the problem.

(cap/plug/wire), fuel filter, PCV valve are fine.I'm still using the DX head w/DX cam. Never touched timing except the fact that I swaped dizzies. I already have base timing to spec. Also when I clean out the intake manifold and T/B with carb spray, do I do this with the car running or with the car off?

 

For the I/M cleaning, keep the car off. Remove the Throttle Body and clean up the throttle plate and anything that looks dirty. You don't really need to spray too much into the actual intake manifold itself (but it doesn't really hurt if you do, as long as the carb cleaner is o2 sensor friendly).

I paid about $30 for my Bosch O2 sensor at Autozone. All of the other parts stores were more expensive.

...I'm kinda frusterated just thinking about your problem! There has got to be something that's making the motor/ECU pissed...

 

ttt... last thing i want to do is let a shop diagonose the problem so they can rape me...

 

Have you checked for codes? Maybe the ECU is flashing something and we just don't know it..?

 

no codes.... thats for your quick replies MrTodd... I appreciate your help.. you almost the only person who is trying to help me out...

 

Ok I noticed I had two coolant hoses mixed up which caused me to take awhile to warm up my car. Fixed that and I thought I fixed the problem. NOPE! Still the same crap going on. WTF IS GOING ON?

 

Bump for the night.. taking the car tomorrow to a shop. I give up!

 

Is your throttle cable too tight? OH.... Did you swap the green and yellow wires at the TPS... If you didn't, that's what's causing the problem. You see, the DX TPS spins backwards and all others spin foward, and if you don't change yel & grn wires, what you are experiencing happens...

 

I did swap the wires. Anyway, if I didnt it would trigger a CEL and my car will idle at like 5000 prm. Its not the tps wiring.

 

Finally went to a shop. I know its a honest shop cuz I worked there for a few months. It seems I've done the swap correctly. However, the car is running wayyyy rich. We figured out a way to put it back to spec so it doesnt run rich. We just adjusted the idle screw and the throttle plate but next saturday we plan on adjusting it correctly. As of now I dont get the rpm lag but I still have a bit of a popping problem.

I'm kinda dissapointed with Honda-tech at the fact that nobody gives out the right information these days and let people know what they should expect from doing any mod. I've helped alot of members with problems by giving out the correct info and I hoped that people would do the same. Anyway, just have to do some minor adjustments nextweek and the car should be running like it should be. Has anyone experienced this with there mpfi swap or is it just me?(adjustment wise) and how did you know what to do to compensate for any problems.

I also forgot to mention. When your calibrating the tps for a tb with a dashpot your supposed to add vaccumm to the dashpot to get a proper reading. My reading was .5v without vaccumm to the dashpot. With vaccumm it was .38v. Thats a big difference when your making ajustments to the tps. How come everyone failed to mention this? This was another reason my car was running way tooooooo rich.

Please if people need help on there cars, make sure you actually know what your talking about before you seriously end up making someone **** there car up. People work hard for there car and parts. I've been on Honda-tech for many years(recently becoming a member) and I've trusted what most member advise me to do.(High post counts) Again, if you dont have the right info please dont post on peoples thread. Thanks for anyone who tried to help me out.