Motor faster when cold?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tnez »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
...so if I unplug my 2nd O2 sensor (well, leave it unplugged... since my 4-1 only allows one O2) and run my header, I shouldnt experience any diferences in the power? I thought our engines used these to properly apply the necessary corrections when the engine is running? i.e. afr, etc
I was told that I need to drill an opening for the secondary O2, in order for the engine to run at its best, since my car normally has 2, instead of one?
I get different answers from different peeps... some reputable, some are'nt.
I also had the same problem as the OP with my DX crx... it would feel torquy when cold, but I felt it had more top end once warmed up... turns out the rings were going bad and a lot was also due to the heat soak/intake set up(engine would warm the piping after a while and air density would drop greatly) but the rings for sure...
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The O2 sensor itself has NO control over the maps at WOT. WOT the ECU reads directly from the fuel tables its given. The whole point of the O2 is to allow for long term corrections since the map isn't going to be perfect. Climates change, elevations change, etc. Thus the ECU needs to ability to adjust especially when you are highly concerned with mileage. When you into WOT, its going to ignore the readings from the O2 and simply run off the tables in the ECU. Hence the importance of tuning your car. Long term it might be able to adjust under partial throttle conditions, but WOT the tables will remain the same.
Perhaps you are feeling the effects of additional timing on a cold engine. This is a possability, but I have never experienced this myself. People seem to get things stuck in thier heads and then from there on it must be "fact". You honestly probably need to get your car tuned and then it will run like it should. Trust me, tuning helps clear a LOT of little problems like this up.
...so if I unplug my 2nd O2 sensor (well, leave it unplugged... since my 4-1 only allows one O2) and run my header, I shouldnt experience any diferences in the power? I thought our engines used these to properly apply the necessary corrections when the engine is running? i.e. afr, etc
I was told that I need to drill an opening for the secondary O2, in order for the engine to run at its best, since my car normally has 2, instead of one?
I get different answers from different peeps... some reputable, some are'nt.
I also had the same problem as the OP with my DX crx... it would feel torquy when cold, but I felt it had more top end once warmed up... turns out the rings were going bad and a lot was also due to the heat soak/intake set up(engine would warm the piping after a while and air density would drop greatly) but the rings for sure...
</TD></TR></TABLE>The O2 sensor itself has NO control over the maps at WOT. WOT the ECU reads directly from the fuel tables its given. The whole point of the O2 is to allow for long term corrections since the map isn't going to be perfect. Climates change, elevations change, etc. Thus the ECU needs to ability to adjust especially when you are highly concerned with mileage. When you into WOT, its going to ignore the readings from the O2 and simply run off the tables in the ECU. Hence the importance of tuning your car. Long term it might be able to adjust under partial throttle conditions, but WOT the tables will remain the same.
Perhaps you are feeling the effects of additional timing on a cold engine. This is a possability, but I have never experienced this myself. People seem to get things stuck in thier heads and then from there on it must be "fact". You honestly probably need to get your car tuned and then it will run like it should. Trust me, tuning helps clear a LOT of little problems like this up.
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