DevinW

Hey guys,

This is going to be my engine/tranny setup initially:

'99 B20Z w/ 74000 kms = 46000 miles
'98 JDM Type R tranny (4.785 FD)
'95 P75 OBDI ecu (so I can raise rev limit later)
Z10 Block Girdle
ARP Rod bolts
Shot Peened B20 Rods

I know a lot of this stuff is unnecessary for a stock rev-limited B20, but I just want more peace of mind when I'm crusing at 4500+ RPM on the freeways

Later on I plan on getting:
Crower 62404 cams w/ Crower valvetrain
SAFC
Cam gears
Raise rev-limit (8000-8500ish)

I want to know what you guys suggest I do know while my engine block isn't in my car yet...or am I taking this precaution stuff TOO far?

Thanks for your opinions...

JCushing

new bearings....

Doctor CorteZ

you should do two things if nothing else......

BALANCE the bottom end
and upgrade the rod bolts like planned.

DevinW

Yes i was thinking bearings as well as balancing. How much would these cost? I don't know how 'crazy' I should go since I'm going to be using the stock rev-limit for probably quite a while...

JCushing

acl bearings from rocket or earl... you should be lookin at about 140 bux for bearings and seals...

balancing contact your local machine shop and find out there hourly rates..

Doctor CorteZ

stock redline or not
balancing plays a key role in longevity.

baonest1

have u looked into the p28 for chipping?? most people use that for built motors.

DevinW

Hmmm ok...

I'm thinking now that maybe I will do the balancing with new seals and bearings, plus some ARP bolts on the stock rods. Then instead of installing the girdle and shot peening the rods, I would do that when I get my cams and raise the rev-limit. (Or instead of shot-peening, get forged rods and pistons)

So do you guys think this setup will be fine without the girdle and shot-peened rods until I plan on doing a full rebuild? Or is the tranny too short to skip these steps now?

Thanks a lot for your opinions guys

JCushing

you can go to 8 without the girdle... i just wouldnt do it too frequently... again your motor im sure would take it with new bearings and arp fastners BUT like someone else said previously it will affect the longvity.

basically the girdle is there to protect the bearings (keep even wear) when the main caps flex at higher rpm

DevinW

I would only be revving to the stock rev-limit...6900 RPM i think?

I'm not TRYING to be cheap, I'm just wondering if I would really need to install the girdle right now, if I'll only be revving to 6900 on occasion and crusing around 4000+ rpm on the highway for about an hour or 2 per week. It would save me a lot in parts...i.e. -> get my engine in quicker!

Doctor CorteZ

I dont think the girdle is really needed for you app.

but I wouldnt cut corners either.

DevinW

OK,

Well I'm not really trying to cut corners. I think I'll wait to install the girdle when I install the cams, valvetrain, and forged pistons, rods...

I'll probably change my mind in a month anyway! I'll see what the $ is like at the time...

JCushing

theres no reason that you need a girdle for 7k... its just overkill

i totally understand your philosphy though... im not the type that likes to stock pile a bunch of parts wait a year then put it all together... i prefer small economical steps over a period of time...

DevinW

Alright...well thanks for your help guys..much appreciated!

sackdz

Did you get the VTEC block girdle or the VTECH block girdle?

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=312909

DevinW

I got the NON-VTEC, NON-VTECH one

boomslang

A bottom end balance and micropolish of the crank, pulley, flywheel, pressure plate, and mounting bolts should run you about $100-$125. WELL worth it!

Don't screw around with the Z10 girdle, it's way overpriced. Get a stock GSR girdle for $60 new, and machine the caps to make it fit. I wrote up an article how to do this properly in the forced induction forum a while back. Look for that post.