Anybody know if the MAP Bypass Valve can go bad or get dirty to where I need to clean it every now and then to keep from getting a CEL? I'm getting a CEL 3 code and I've replaced the MAP sensor with a used MAP sensor but I'm still having power/idle problems. Just wondering because the tiny filter on the side of the bypass valve is dirty. I've had the map bypass valve since 2002.

I Seafoamed my car, replaced the IACV with a new one, and replaced the coolant so far and I'm still having idle/power problems. My next step will be changing the oil and oil filter and cleaning out my FITV and VTEC Solenoid.

 

If your MAP is at fault,you couldn't throttle fast because your engine will stall.
IACV or FITV may make your RPM go lower everytime you step on the throttle and imediately let off your foot. lets say if your initial idle was at 1000 RPM and then after you floored it up to 2000RPM and let go,will your RPM needle go below 1000?Maybe 600?
if so..,your IACV or FITV is at fault.Both IACV,FITV compensate each other so one of them faulty may cause the other to not work properly. If your engine starts to vibrate wildly when you engage in First gear it is the FITV,so try to open its cap and start to engage first gear another time,the vibration may go away.

 

Well I cleaned my FITV and VTEC solenoid. Car runs smoother but still having power problems. I noticed when climbing up a hill, I feel the power drop and notice in my fuel/air ratio meter that it's burning lean. No check engine light though. I don't know what to do now.

 

Yesterday I changed out my valve cover seal. As I pulled my valve cover off, I notice there was a loose 10mm bolt laying right next to the upper left hand hole that leads to the VTEC solenoid! Luckily it wasn't bouncing around on my valves or springs! But anyways, I bolted it back up to the only hole that I seen that it came out of. Which was the hole right below the VTEC solenoid hole.

After putting my valve cover back on, the car is still having problems surging whenever it feels like it. And I see when it does lose power, my Air/Fuel Ratio Meter reads "Lean" even when I give it gas. I have to pump the gas a couple of times when I'm driving, it starts burning normal again.

Curious as to what that 10mm bolt was for, I searched online and found out it's called a Sealing Bolt Part #90004-PE2-005. But as I look at the part, I see there is also a washer that goes to that bolt. I'm guessing the washer could be loose and bouncing around the springs causing the problem?

Does anyone know what the purpose of that Sealing Bolt is because I don't see what it would hold together? As for being curious to see if the washer is causing the problem, I am going to open up the valve cover again to see if there is a loose washer laying around my valves.