Main bearing issue?
Im reinstalling my crank in my LS block, using standard size ACL bearings and thrust washers.
Tq'd it down and am having difficulty turing the crank.
I am using helms manual = 56ft/lbs each. (There is some discrepancy with this spec in other posts Ive read)
I did clearance beforehand and everything is correct.
I am using assembly lube
When I use 56ft/lb for caps 1,5 and 49ft/lbs for 2,3,4 (gsr/itr specs) it requires 10ft/lbs to turn the crank, without rods/pistons connected. Is this ok? Can I use these specs?
Am I doing something wrong? I couldnt find any crank rotation specs in helms...
(edit**after spinning it a few times, the crank now turns, with 56ft/lbs across all caps, at 8ft/lbs)
Modified by pdiggitydogg at 2:40 PM 8/28/2005
Tq'd it down and am having difficulty turing the crank.
I am using helms manual = 56ft/lbs each. (There is some discrepancy with this spec in other posts Ive read)
I did clearance beforehand and everything is correct.
I am using assembly lube
When I use 56ft/lb for caps 1,5 and 49ft/lbs for 2,3,4 (gsr/itr specs) it requires 10ft/lbs to turn the crank, without rods/pistons connected. Is this ok? Can I use these specs?
Am I doing something wrong? I couldnt find any crank rotation specs in helms...
(edit**after spinning it a few times, the crank now turns, with 56ft/lbs across all caps, at 8ft/lbs)
Modified by pdiggitydogg at 2:40 PM 8/28/2005
After the crank is installed you should be able to spin the crank using two fingers.You should not be able to measure it with a torque wrench.Are all the caps in the right location and facing the right direction? The gsr/itr spec.s are only for the caps with the oem girdle and long bolts.
Glenn
Glenn
Yeah, theyre in the right spots, facing the right direction.
Stock bolts
I doubt a different lube would make a difference, but Im using leftover arp lube that came w/ headbolts and rods
Modified by pdiggitydogg at 3:26 PM 8/28/2005
Stock bolts
I doubt a different lube would make a difference, but Im using leftover arp lube that came w/ headbolts and rods
Modified by pdiggitydogg at 3:26 PM 8/28/2005
Oh.....The lube that came from ARP is only to be used on the bolts/studs.It will create a lot of drag if used as a bearing assembly lube.Clean it off the bearings and crank with some brake clean or lacquer thinner.Use your regular motor oil on the bearings and crank and you will be fine.
Glenn
Glenn
doh 
I was thinking since it was thicker it would just last longer since I wont be putting it into the car for awhile.
I figured it was all the same

Learn the hard way I guess
thanks
I'll clean it tomorrow and use something different

I was thinking since it was thicker it would just last longer since I wont be putting it into the car for awhile.
I figured it was all the same


Learn the hard way I guess
thanks
I'll clean it tomorrow and use something different
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yes i did
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pdiggitydogg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I did clearance beforehand and everything is correct.[/i]</TD></TR></TABLE>
the acl's are in spec w/ the readings
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pdiggitydogg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I did clearance beforehand and everything is correct.[/i]</TD></TR></TABLE>
the acl's are in spec w/ the readings
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pssst! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can't It be that your ACL's might be to thick on some of the Main Journal?
ACL Bearing sizes = Honda Green bearing sizes, I think.
Did you Plastigauge it?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Oops, You stated this in the original post.
ACL Bearing sizes = Honda Green bearing sizes, I think.
Did you Plastigauge it?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Oops, You stated this in the original post.
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