Hey guys, just got my lsv running and was having trouble getting the timing spot on with the timing light. I have the jumper wire connected like you are supposed to do. The dizzy is maxxed out and it seems I am still a few degrees off. It doesn't look like I am a tooth off with the timing belt, but I took pics for reference. The first pics show the crank pulley at TDC. I am unsure if these cams are off or not because they look strait up and down to me. Let me know what you think.

 

dude u got ur crank at 16 degrees, it needs to b at 0 (as in the single notch, the one off by itself or find tdc on cylinder one with a coat hanger in the spark plug hole. rotate the crank maually while holding the hanger should come pretty close to that notch) with the cams straight up. aim the cams more inline with the valvecover mating surface. 1 take the belt off and reset than the ignition timing will b able to set properly

wait a minute maybe i looked at that wrong, i actually dont c the notch on ur timing cover to line up with the crank, just use the coat hanger methad

 

Sr420Det is right -- Nothing is at TDC, UP or 0 in those pictures.
(And the cam gears NOT pointing UP in that picture).

Actually the white marks on your cam gears don't even look like theyre actually on the proper tooth to align when I zoom in on the picture.

You're almost definitely off by a tooth -- thus your ignition timing cannot be set correctly.
Uploaded the edited picture. I'm sure you'll see what I mean.

 

Thanks for the replies. I assumed everything was assembled properly since a shop put on the belt. I will have to pull the belt and fix this myself. The weird thing is that the car runs extremely well at idle and revs like normal.

 

dude never trust a shop, i dont think iv ever meet a "smart" technician. Hell i dont know how these places stay in business, esp dealerships

 

Hey guys, I ended up doing the timing belt myself. Not that hard to do. The hardest part was getting the crank pulley bolt out. After an hour of screwing with it, I bought an electric impact and took the bolt out in about 4 seconds.. Now the notches and TDC mark on the crank line up so I should be ready for the ignition timing.

 

Update. Tried to do the ignition timing but it is still retarded even with dizzy adjusted as far as it can go. I am 100% sure the mechanical timing is correct. I had to modify the dizzy to get the timing on the correct mark. I also noticed I am getting code 4 now (CKP). I had this code previously and it ended up being a loose wire. I double checked the wiring and it seems ok. It is a brand new dizzy from Distributor King. I checked resistance between the two CKP wires, but do not get resistance. Is it possible I fried a brand new distributor?

 

Sometimes dizzys come broke....Maybe you just got a junk one even though it was new...

 

I having the same problem with my lsv.... its bad like my car holds idle at 1300rpms not 800rpms so i cant set the timing and iv checked cleaned messed with my idle screw/tb 20x over its not the ivac or fitv cause i bought a block off for that and idk its bad.... i tried turning my heat on high and lights on high to lower the idle to around 950rpms but thats the closest i can get it to set timing cause i need my car to be at 800rpms but idk its been killing me any ideas any one i rly need the help...

 

what ecu are you running?

 

Found out that I had a loose wire at the ecu conversion harness. There was a blue/green wire that somehow got depinned. I checked the timing after clearing the code 4 and realized that my timing was almost 10* off. I guess the CKP affects the timing.