So I've spent the whole weekend doing my LS/VTEC swap. Ive got everything in up until putting my timing belt back on. I took the shortcut of just slipping if off the LS gears while it was in the car because i cant get the crank pulley off. Well i put a B16 head on it, and i think that the B16 head is taller so it requires a differnt timing belt, because it will not slip back on over the cam gears. Is there something to do w/ the tensioner that i have my mess with or am i fucked? Because i will not be able to get that pulley off to change the timing belt. LMK ASAP, because i need to get my car running soon.

 

BTW, i still have the LS water pump on there.

 

No shortcuting you wont it to last right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Palmy Blue &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

lol LSVTEC last? LOL damn.

Have fun driving your car and not being able to see behind you because of the HUGE clouds of smoke, not just any clouds ****** huge. Also you should be gettin 30-40 mpq (miles per quart) good luck, have fun doin a new swap after 10k</TD></TR></TABLE>

OOK............

there a tensioner you can loosen and then tighten if you haven't already did that

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Palmy Blue &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

lol LSVTEC last? LOL damn.

Have fun driving your car and not being able to see behind you because of the HUGE clouds of smoke, not just any clouds ****** huge. Also you should be gettin 30-40 mpq (miles per quart) good luck, have fun doin a new swap after 10k</TD></TR></TABLE>

Do you know what you are talking about guy? Its people like you that give LS/Vtecs bad names. The kids that slap a stock head on a stock block and rev it to 9 or 9500 and wonder why it spun a bearing. If you build a motor right it will last. There are plenty of LS/Vtecs that have been running for ALONG time. Hell this kid peter down here has one on boost that made 471whp and has been running for two years.

 

Well, I'm no LSVTec expert, but that stock LS water pump and prolly oil pump (you kept the LS oil pump I assume) is not a good idea, they are not made to handle duty over 7500rpm reliably.

But if you must use the stock parts... loosening the tensioner should allow you to get the belt over the gears (the belt is a bitch to get on sometimes). The b16 cam gears should be the same diameter.

Good luck... LSvtec with stock pumps/parts... you're gunna need it if you plan to go beyond 7500rpm.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AlterEgo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, I'm no LSVTec expert, but that stock LS water pump and prolly oil pump (you kept the LS oil pump I assume) is not a good idea, they are not made to handle duty over 7500rpm reliably.

But if you must use the stock parts... loosening the tensioner should allow you to get the belt over the gears (the belt is a bitch to get on sometimes). The b16 cam gears should be the same diameter.

Good luck... LSvtec with stock pumps/parts... you're gunna need it if you plan to go beyond 7500rpm.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you go to acura and look for newer pumps the LS and Vtec oil pumps have the same part number. Ive read that somewhere on here. BTW just loosen the tensioner and it should fit like a glove!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicflnum1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Do you know what you are talking about guy? Its people like you that give LS/Vtecs bad names. The kids that slap a stock head on a stock block and rev it to 9 or 9500 and wonder why it spun a bearing. If you build a motor right it will last. There are plenty of LS/Vtecs that have been running for ALONG time. Hell this kid peter down here has one on boost that made 471whp and has been running for two years. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Couldent say it better my self

 

Unless they changed recently...the LS oil pump is not the same part number as a vtec one. The CRV one, however... is the same as the vtec ones.

eh... either way, don't ghettofy an LSvtec if you want it to last as long as a stock engine... it just won't happen.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AlterEgo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Unless they changed recently...the LS oil pump is not the same part number as a vtec one. The CRV one, however... is the same as the vtec ones.

eh... either way, don't ghettofy an LSvtec if you want it to last as long as a stock engine... it just won't happen.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Maybe the kid meant CRV n said LS. Im running a GSR on the one im building. Im not cutting any corners.....i want this baby to last!

 

the reason the ls water pump wont cool properly after 7500rpms is because of cavitation. non vtec pump has 19 teeth vs. 22 for the vtec one.

and all 96-up oil pumps are the same for b-series.

 

Thanx everyone, ill try loosening up that tensioner.
I plan to get a vtec oil and water pump, ill put that on when i pull the motor to put in new internals
As far as that goes, im not really ghettoing it up, i need to find the stuff to make it "non-ghetto" like pins for the ECU, a knock sensor, the connectors that go onto the vtec and knock ends. <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Palmy Blue &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol LSVTEC last? LOL damn.

Have fun driving your car and not being able to see behind you because of the HUGE clouds of smoke, not just any clouds ****** huge. Also you should be gettin 30-40 mpq (miles per quart) good luck, have fun doin a new swap after 10k</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah maybe if i didn't replace the head gasket and ran a crappy chipped ECU off EBAY for $20. I have a stock P30 in it.

 

okay so i cant get that tensioner to budge loose, im afraid i might be rounding off the bolt. Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

bump

 

mourning bump

 

your afraid you are or you are roudning the bolt? If you are go to sears n get the round out tool...works wonders!

 

well i tried again to remove the bolt, this time i broke a socket. I used a 1/2" breaker bar and it did not come off. Is this normal?

Also, how can i tell if my cam timing is set up correctly. On the B16, the cam covers do not have holes over the #1 cylinder, it is over the #2 cylinder. If i line them up to the holes on the cams, the dash marks on the gears and the up arrows do not line up. When u like up the dash marks, the up arrows are not pointing up and when i line the up arrows up, the dash marks do not line up. Which is the correct way to get the cams to TDC?

 

and all 96-up oil pumps are the same for b-series. [/QUOTE] is this true???

 

mourning bump for my question

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GWInquisitor14 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well i tried again to remove the bolt, this time i broke a socket. I used a 1/2" breaker bar and it did not come off. Is this normal?

Also, how can i tell if my cam timing is set up correctly. On the B16, the cam covers do not have holes over the #1 cylinder, it is over the #2 cylinder. If i line them up to the holes on the cams, the dash marks on the gears and the up arrows do not line up. When u like up the dash marks, the up arrows are not pointing up and when i line the up arrows up, the dash marks do not line up. Which is the correct way to get the cams to TDC?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Take out the plug on cyl. 1 and put a screw driver in it....move the crank till the screw driver is at TDC and check the cam gears...make sure they are both pointing up. BTW use a impact grade socket for the tensioner.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicflnum1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Take out the plug on cyl. 1 and put a screw driver in it....move the crank till the screw driver is at TDC and check the cam gears...make sure they are both pointing up. </TD></TR></TABLE>

See i can get the #1 cylinder at TDC, but the cams are the issue. If the arrows are pointing up, the dash marks on the gears do not line up and then the holes in the cams n cam holders do not line up either.

 

The up arrows kind of face like this..\..\ in relation to the ground. They aim up level with the engine tilt. And yes, ALL b-series 96 and up are identical oil pumps.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Runnerdown &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The up arrows kind of face like this..\..\ in relation to the ground. They aim up level with the engine tilt. And yes, ALL b-series 96 and up are identical oil pumps.</TD></TR></TABLE>

okay i will have to set them like that, because when i had them like that the dash marks lined up. thanx

 

btw, would it make any difference in the cam timing if i installed them with the gears on?

 

Installed what?