How would I get my LS engine to rev up to 9000 rpm safely? I'm putting a turbo on the LS with a b16 head. And looking for 300whp

 

Most people will tell you that the LS rod bolts are the weakest link and are most prone to failure with increasing revs. Either upgrade to ARP rod bolts, or better yet, upgrade to a quality forged rod with larger ARP hardware. Forged pistons would be a good idea as well, especially if you're going to add boost to the equation. If you're going to add a VTEC head, then you should also use a VTEC oil pump, as well as a VTEC water pump and timing belt. Oiling becomes critical when increasing revs on an originally non-VTEC block, and some people sweat not having oil sprayers to keep the pistons cool, but those really aren't needed if you use a quality forged piston. Other than that, make sure everything is balanced and whoever assembles the engine knows what they're doing. Although it may not be immediately noticeable, improper clearances and installation procedures will compromise the integrity of your engine. You might also want to let the powerband determine where to set your rev limit, as opposed to just saying,"I want to rev to 9k." If your setup is seeing a power drop-off at, say, 8200RPM, there isn't much of a point revving it out to 9k. Using quality parts, making sure your internals are balanced, proper assembly, and a good tune will assure that you have a reliable build that performs, and lasts.

 

thank you very much. that was the answer i was looking for. i couldn't fid the information on it at all!

any suggestions on which parts to use specifically?

 

Any reputable manufacturer of forged internals will work. Big bolt Eagle rods(I'm not even sure if they're still making the small bolt ones) will be more than adequate for your power goals. As for pistons, Wiseco, CP, Arias, JE, etc are all good. For bearings, most people swear by OEM Honda bearings since you can size them exactly to your particular crank/block/rods, but if your clearances are close enough you can save some money using ACL's(the standard ones, since the "Race" ACL's aren't recommended for street applications). Micropolishing the crank and balancing the rotating assembly is strongly recommended. As is boring/honing the cylinders to fit your pistons. VTEC oil and water pumps should be used, along with a VTEC timing belt. ARP headstuds are also a good idea. That pretty much does it for the bottom end.

You can pretty much leave the head stock(minus LS/VTEC modifications) if you don't plan on exceeding the factory B VTEC rev limit, although you might want to at least get new valvestem seals, a valvejob, and have it resurfaced. Depending on which B16 head you're using(the ones that come out of automatic cars have weaker cams), you may want to step up to GSR/CTR/ITR cams or aftermarket cams. If you decide to upgrade cams, you may also want to look into valvetrain upgrades(at least OEM dual valvesprings if you're going to use the CTR/ITR cams). As for other headwork(porting, polishing, aftermarket guides, oversized valves, aftermarket springs/retainers, manifold gasket matching, etc), it probably isn't necessary, but that's entirely up to you. Again, you don't necessarily NEED to upgrade the head much to have a reliable setup, so take it as far as you want to, but at least do the bare minimum maintenance items(seals, valvejob, resurfacing).

If the assembly is done correctly, tuned properly, and regular maintenance is performed, you should have yourself a reliable setup that performs well.