No answers in the Teg Forum yet so I'm posting here as well.

I have a left inner CV Boot that needs replacing..What exactly does this do? Do I have to get it changed ASAP or can I wait? What are the possible dangers of not chaning it now?
I received a labor quote of 2 hours (which is %$*&). I'll probably do it myself. Can anyone give me some detailed instructions on how to change it?

 

You don't usually just replace the boot. It's almost always cheaper/easier to replace the entire axle. It should cost you about $70 for the new axle, less a $40 core charge or so for your old axle.

 

so the tech was jerking me when he told me to replace the boot?
is it more expensive that way? the quote i received for the boot was $62.00, but that was from my local acura dealer. i'm sure ah can do better.

 

Get a quote on the price for the axle, and ask them to tell you the core charge as well. When you take out the axle and put in the new, just turn in the old and they give you money back - the core charge. My axles cost me $120 CDN apiece, with a $65 core charge or thereabouts. Of course the costs will be different for you, since you have a different currency .

Replacing the boot isn't even always a fix, since if the CV has been damaged the boot won't fix it. Always better to replace the axle.

 

thnx for the info raeneshadow..

how did you damage your boot?

 

I didn't. This was replacing my CRX axles for 'Teg axles when I did my B16A swap.... but then the crappy Fenco axles I bought had f*cked up CV joints on BOTH sides even though the boots were fine so I had to replace them again . No problems since though.

 

Oh yeah, forgot to mention that it's a good idea to get it done soon as possible. Eventually the CV joint will seize and really screw things up nasty-like. It should take you about 3 or 4 hours if you've never done it before. You'll need a 32millimeter socket to break loose the axle end nut, about a 3-foot breaker bar, a big-*** screwdriver to pry the axle out from the transmission (they're clipped into place), and a socket set to remove the lower arm from the steering knuckle. It's also a good idea to lube up the axle before installation with some multipurpose grease.

 

they give u money back for returning the core? what if i buy a new axle online? think i need to call ahmotor tom'w.

 

what exactly gets screwed up if you leave it the way it is?

 

I don't think you'd get the core for buying online. You need to bring a receipt when you return your old axle, and yes you get money for it .

If you look at the internal construction of your CV joint, you'll note that it has a lot of grease in there to keep the parts moving. When that all breaks down you get metal-on-metal, and things go downhill from there rather quickly.

If you look at the way your CV is constructed to move, you'll note that it looks like this:

===\
........\========to steering knuckle / outer CV joint)
The line part is supposed to be the axle, and the bent part is the inner CV joint. As you can imagine, when that sucker turns the lower shaft has to move dependent on the upper. If the part seizes, as it will eventually do in your case, it will no longer turn. The axle will suddenly yank sideways, it will probably bend your lower arm and/or suspension components, and at worst I imagine it would frag your transmission because it will suddenly twist with extreme force inside the transmission casing in a way it was never meant to twist.

I've heard stories of the outer CV joint failing on the highway and the person watching as their wheel (with half their axle still in it) rolled away, but I think that's an exaggeration. Suffice it to say that major repairs would be needed .

 

great info raeneshadow..thanx for the pic too.