GSR tranny in a teg.

I am getting a tiny leak from the small holes on the shift linkage boot when I run thru the gears when the car is at a stand still. I assume this happens when driving too.

What causes this, as I assume it's not normal. The fluid seems to be tranny fluid... so is there something wrong ? Should the boot face so that the tiny holes are pointing up or down or sideways or what ? I don't wanna leak tranny fluid and kill sump'n.

Thx
X2

 

You shouldnt be leaking anything from there, regardless. If you are then you have a bad seal for the shift rod inside the transmission. I would recommend pulling the boot back and seeing if it is coming from there and if it is you should replace that seal.

Later,
BR

 

Yeah. Pull the boot back and se if the leak is from the seal, which I almost guarantee it is. How many miles on the tranny? I replaced my seal when I rebuilt mine, and I must have nicked the seal with the rod, cuz it is weeping just a little over time. It is pretty easy to change (especially if it is out for a clutch or LSD), just be carefully not to dent/scratch the shift rod or damage the seal when putting it in.

If the tranny has a ton of hard miles on it (like mine at 170k hard *** miles) then it will prolly be damp, but if it significant, then best to fix it.

Oh, BTW, the boot does nothing but keep dirt off that part of the shift rod, so that the seal doesn't get prematurely worn out. The seal (underneth the boot) is what is doing ALL of the sealing. Pointing the drain holes up will not help your leak.

Late,
A

 

So I guess those 2 holes are to bleed air from the boot as you shift thru the gears and compress the boot ?

And you mentioned you changed it during a rebuild. I haven't looked up close yet, but the seal should be just behind the boot... I figure it shouldn't be a problem on the car... but you never know. Is is easily changed whilst still on the car ?

X2


[Modified by X2BOARD, 1:34 PM 3/11/2003]

 

The leak seems to happen whenever I shift at a standstill, I hope it's not occuring too much while driving (yeah, sure it's not... )

It has been like this for a couple months, but the tranny also seems to have a small sratch at the 3rd gear engagement at 5K rpm, could this be due to low tranny fluid, or is the tranny just 'grinding' from bad syncros ?

X2

 

That slight grind could be a combination of them both or one or the other. It is really hard to say what it is for sure without having your fluid full.
Fill it up and see what happens from there.

Oh, and yes it is leaking all the time.

Later,
BR

 

bump.. I'm having the same problem and I have a brand new seal waiting to be installed.. wondering if this did the trick for you?

Phil

 

If your shift rod is bent, then replacing the seal will not help.

The seal is so easy to replace it's pathetic. It's like 5$, and all you need to do is take the shift linkage off of the rod, pry the old seal out, and tap the new one on. I just used a deep socket to tap it on with.

But like I said, if the rod is bent, then the seal will open up as you're shifting. This happened to me. You'll have to drop the tranny and split the case open to replace that. Easy.

Remember to drain the tranny fluid when working on that seal, because it will seep out.

Any questions PM me, I've had my share of beef with this seal and shift rod.

 

As Nameless pointed out, it's really easy, I coincidentally did it yesterday. For anyone that needs the info, here it is (what I did)

You will need to buy:

(1) 14mm crush washer for the tranny drain bolt
(1) 20mm crush washer for the tranny fill bolt (teg) ($0.50)
(1) Tranny/shift linkage oil seal ($5.50)
(3) Bottles of MTF (Fluid)
(1) Funnel w/ hose extension

Tools:

Flat tip screw driver
3/8 Drive ratchet
17mm socket
8mm punch or equivalent
Hammer
Large deep socket that fits the oil seal (forgot size, about the size of a spark plug socket) ... This is for tapping in the oil seal

First: Jack up front of car, support w/ jack stands

1) Pull back linkage boot and remove shift linkage clip
2) Use 8mm punch and hammer to tap out the spring pin
3) Disconnect Linkage and pull of the rubber boot
4) Drain Tranny fluid/Replace drain bolt w/ new washer
5) Using a flat tip screw driver at an angle, tap out the old seal
6) Lubricate new seal w/ some tranny fluid, slide over the linkage rod (to tranny)
7) With a largish deep socket, position it over the seal/shift rod
8) Tap the seal in with the socket (use a hammer ) (Hardest part)
----The seal will not go in completely, it will stop a bit before it's lip for the rubber boot to 'hook' onto---
9) Reinstall the rubber boot with a small flat tip to pull it over the seal's lip
10) Position the rubber boot so that the small holes point down
11) Slip on the linkage to the rod and reinstall the spring pin w/ the punch
12) Reinstall the spring clip over the linkage/pin
13) Slip the rubber boot over the linkage
14) Fill tranny until MTF runs out of the fill hole (Almost 3 bottles of honda MTF)
15) Reinstall fill bolt w/ new washer

Drive away happy... I did...lol

I don't think I missed anything and this was one of the easiest repairs I have done (for a leak that is)
My shift rod was not bent, as the leak is now fixed...yay...

Hope this helps someone else.

X2



[Modified by X2BOARD, 1:00 PM 3/26/2003]

 

Dang, I think I have the same problem. I swapped my spare block in lasy week, and now I'm getting drips of tranny fluid on my garage floor. I also noticed some of it dripping from the shift linkage boot. My shift linkage pin is ridiculously hard to get in/out, which means I have to beat on it pretty hard with a pin punch and hammer. Could that cause a leak in the seal, or maybe bend the rod?

 

I have never had a leak from that seal till this motor. So I would say that taking the spring pin in and out will not cause it. What happened in this car's case is I started to lift the block when I was pulling the motor and forgot to take off the linkage on my part. That is what damaged my seal.

The pin should be relatively easy to remove with an 8mm punch and a small hammer.

X2

 

I've been using the right sized punch and a hammer, but this was the first time I've ever removed the pin in the 6 years I've had the car, so I guess that might have something to do with it. I literally have to beat on pin for almost an hour(off and on, since my arms get tired with all the pounding) in order to get it in/out. I guess I'll order a new shift rod and pin, and see if they go together easier.

 

This rod is unbelievable HARD as **** to bend no matter how hard you hit on it. I mean it is seriously strong.. but if it is bent the only choice you have is to replace it.

I tried heating mine up and bending it, but it made it worse. Just go for the seal first, and if that doesn't work, I'll talk you through the process of replacing that rod... just PM me..

EDIT: Also, use some WD40 on the pin..


[Modified by Nameless EJ6, 9:45 PM 4/2/2003]

 

Would I be able to tell, visibly, if the rod were bent? I checked on MAjestic, and I think it costs like $17, so was just going to order one anyway. If I can look at it and tell if it's bent or not, then that'll save me the trouble of dropping the tranny again, and I can just replace the seal. Thanks for the help.

 

Why don't you just replace the seal first and see if it leaks again ?

X2

 

Do you know the part number for the seal? It is not listed on acuraautomotiveparts.org

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ohyeah88 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you know the part number for the seal? It is not listed on acuraautomotiveparts.org</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, but it's pretty cheap at the dealer..... check out your local.