I am looking for some outside insight on some areas to check for a non starting issue. The car is a 97' GSR, JR Supercharge, running OBDII to OBDI harness, with Hondata S300. The car was having issues not idling, and spewing smoke, and dying. At first glance it appeared to be out of time, bent valve, damaged piston, etc. Our first route was to check the compression right off the bat to eliminate those suspicions. We pull the ECU fuse, unhook the distributor and run through checking each cylinder. The compression was all within 180 or so.

It was brought up again after running the compression check that there was a sucking sound from the back of the motor. While putting the plugs and wires back in, I noticed the vacuum line to the map sensor had fallen/popped off. We are using an external map, allowing the use of a larger nipple for the vacuum line. Immediately we realized that this was more than likely the issue with the idle, smoke, and dying.

After everything was put back together, we attempted to start the car. It turns over just fine, fuel system pressurizes to 60 psi, but there is zero spark. We first tested the resistance of the ignition coil, and it was reading slightly out of spec with what the FSM stated. However, we did the same test on a brand new coil, and ohm test was the same, so we felt safe in saying that the coil was good.

Next we ran a series of tests on the Ignition Control Module, again using the tests in the FSM. We really could not make a determination on those tests. We were able to source a ICM at the parts store. While there, they were able to test our ICM, and the results were okay. We ran the same test on the new ICM, and the numbers matched ours. So, we figure this ICM is good.

We have checked all the fuses, both under hood and under the dash. Checked the continuity of each wire from the distributor to the ECU, and things look to be good. Grounds are all clean and grounded. But there is still no spark.

Any pointers would be appreciated.

 

if you have a mutlimeter or better yet an o-scope you should test each of the three magnetic pickups within the distributor, test them at the distributor and if they're all good test them all at the ecu. If you do the "light test" where you use a test light on the coil it'll tell you if the three sensors and the ignitor work. You shouldn't use s test light though. A multimeter set to AC volts will fluctuate if you've got the right signal.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ryan#1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you have a mutlimeter or better yet an o-scope you should test each of the three magnetic pickups within the distributor, test them at the distributor and if they're all good test them all at the ecu. If you do the "light test" where you use a test light on the coil it'll tell you if the three sensors and the ignitor work. You shouldn't use s test light though. A multimeter set to AC volts will fluctuate if you've got the right signal.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Okay, I do have a bluepoint multimeter. Does this need to be done while cranking, or key on?

 

Fixed, thanks.

 

well what was it?