is this knock sensor fixable?
when i unplugged it, the cap came off as you can see. that little wire on the left piece, i'm assuming was soldered to that clump on the right piece. that thing sticking up on the right is like some ceramic shielding or somthing. It slides right down inside, but its partially broken.
Anyone had one of these apart before?
d
Modified by daver at 3:24 AM 8/14/2003
using a multimeter http://www.sears.com/sr/produc...16000
after putting the sensor back together test it and compare to the reading
to OEM specifications
after putting the sensor back together test it and compare to the reading
to OEM specifications
ummm you can't test a knock sensor with a multimeter, you need an oscilliscope, which i highly doubt you have laying around
I just took mine into my physics lab and tested it by tapping it with a hammer while scanning, mine was bad, checked a new one and it worked, put it in the car, and it was fine
You can't use a multimeter because the knock sensor sends out a damped sine wave, not a constant voltage.
I just took mine into my physics lab and tested it by tapping it with a hammer while scanning, mine was bad, checked a new one and it worked, put it in the car, and it was fine
You can't use a multimeter because the knock sensor sends out a damped sine wave, not a constant voltage.
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to answer the original question, no, you can't fix it, they are much to sensitive, if you put a glob of solder on it, it would through the balance and wieght off and the sensor would send out a different signal.
you can chack a KS with a multimeter. switch the voltmeter to the lowest AC voltage scale put the negative side to the sensor body, and the positive side to the sensor terminal. with the voltmeter attached to the sensor tap on it with a hammer and you should get fluctuations in voltage, if it doesnt fluctuate the sensor is bad. you should do it with the sensor removed and the wiring harness connected to it. i have done it with it still connected though. but i would buy a new one that one looks kinda shitty. you could always test it though. good luck.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by toolowsol »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the only proper way to test a knock sensor is with an oscilliscope.</TD></TR></TABLE>
not everyone has one a hammer and multimeter works fine, i have the knock sensor bypassed on my car anyway. thats not reccomended though
not everyone has one a hammer and multimeter works fine, i have the knock sensor bypassed on my car anyway. thats not reccomended though
Oscilloscopes are quite expensive. (I use a $10,000 one at work, but that's a different story). However, you can buy a small one for $300-$400. Go to the library and check out a Physics Review Journal: such as Physics Review Letters A, B, or C, or something like that. There are tons of ads for experimental equipment such as this.
However, why the hell would you waste your money on this, simply to test a KS? Go buy a new one.
However, why the hell would you waste your money on this, simply to test a KS? Go buy a new one.
i did take a quick look for used ones, not the same generation, used with an unknown background (sounds like they're delicate) and from stangers and probably a a longer wait. No fooling around for me.
thanks
thanks
yeh i sell them for 50 bux shipped US dollars...
honeslty, im curious as to how you figure the ecu works to the same degree and precision as an ocilliscope.
I always did the same thing, test it with the hammer of the block technique and it was intresting how the knock sensor would jump around. Im 90% sure that just like the TPS and map sensor, its based off voltage, and if the voltage changes, then the ECU makes corrections, and im sure it only samples so many times per second. I think you saying the ONLY way how to test a knock sensor is wrong. Im sure that one is perhaps more precise then another method, but you need to look at how the sensor is going to be used. In most case senarios, high performace hondas dont even use the knock sensors w/ chipped programs/hondata/aem ems etc
honeslty, im curious as to how you figure the ecu works to the same degree and precision as an ocilliscope.
I always did the same thing, test it with the hammer of the block technique and it was intresting how the knock sensor would jump around. Im 90% sure that just like the TPS and map sensor, its based off voltage, and if the voltage changes, then the ECU makes corrections, and im sure it only samples so many times per second. I think you saying the ONLY way how to test a knock sensor is wrong. Im sure that one is perhaps more precise then another method, but you need to look at how the sensor is going to be used. In most case senarios, high performace hondas dont even use the knock sensors w/ chipped programs/hondata/aem ems etc
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by irev210 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeh i sell them for 50 bux shipped US dollars...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
What do you sell for $50 shipped?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
What do you sell for $50 shipped?
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