about to install my head and got some questions about the the bolts/studs. it's stock gsr with new oem head gasket. searched and getting mixed responses on how to install them. i got the arp's were it has the allen/hex on the top of the stud. i found a bunch of ways people do it just making sure...
first lube the threads, nuts and washers with the arp moly lube, screw the studs into the block "hand tight only"? then put the head gasket(w/copper spray) and head on...now for torquing it...

Step 1 - 25 ft/lb
Step 2 - 45 ft/lb
Step 3- 65 ft/lb
-------------------------------
Step 4- 70 ft/lb? Some say to do it to 70 some say 65? Intructions say both too...

Do I need to keep applying lube while torquing them down? What do people mean when the say to "double nut" when installing them?

 

you are only supposed to hand tighten the studs in the block.

What i did in that step is cleaned the thread inside the block first, then installed the studs with an allen head. i tightened them down a little then backed off. then tightened by hand. (this is all with moly lube of course)

as for the torque, i've used 65-71 ft/lb and never really noticed a difference within those ratings.

you dont need to keep reapplying moly lube unless you missed a spot

 

so when first apply the lube, just do all the threads (top and bottom) on the stud and the bolts/washers all at once?

 

i never put any moly lube on the nuts/washers. Just the studs. but if you feel you need to, go for it

 

PS; the reason for me tightening the studs down with an allen wrench was to remove any air pockets that get stuck at the bottom.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stoich EG2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i never put any moly lube on the nuts/washers. Just the studs. but if you feel you need to, go for it</TD></TR></TABLE>

is there a certain amount you need on them? whats the difference from tighting it down the the allen key then by hand, jw?

 

the whole point of the ARP STUDS instead of OEM BOLTS/WASHERS is to create an 'opposite holding force'-for lack of better words

i just put enough moly to cover the threads and...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stoich EG2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">PS; the reason for me tightening the studs down with an allen wrench was to remove any air pockets that get stuck at the bottom.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

haha gotcha.

ok so use the arp moly lube on the top and bottom threads, screw them into the block using a allen key and tighten the bolt a little, then hand tighten, put head gasket on, put head on, then put the washer and nut and torque them down(using oem sequence)?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zoo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">haha gotcha.

ok so use the arp moly lube on the top and bottom threads, screw them into the block using a allen key and tighten the bolt a little, then hand tighten, put head gasket on, put head on, then put the washer and nut and torque them down(using oem sequence)?</TD></TR></TABLE>

the point in screwing them in with the allen key is to force the air bubbles/pockets out. You'll get what im talking about when the time comes. The moly creates kind of a seal that doesnt let air out when you tighten the studs. So tighten it with the allen, the loosen it with the allen, then hand tighten (wiht no allen). and yes, OEM sequence

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stoich EG2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

the point in screwing them in with the allen key is to force the air bubbles/pockets out. You'll get what im talking about when the time comes. The moly creates kind of a seal that doesnt let air out when you tighten the studs. So tighten it with the allen, then loosen it with the allen, then hand tighten (wiht no allen). and yes, OEM sequence</TD></TR></TABLE>

ohh ok i didn't catch that you had to loosen it too after tighting it with the allen

 

is the head supposed to stuck up a little bit from the block before you torque the studs down?

 

the head should seat on the block evenly without torquing the studs down. make sure you dowels are lined up

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stoich EG2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the head should seat on the block evenly without torquing the studs down. make sure you dowels are lined up</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats the same thing I told him.

 

By hand tightening they mean screw then all the way down with the allen key, then back them all out the same amount (1/4 turn or less) so that they arent torqued into the block.

 

Just twist them into the block by hand. Don't make them tight and don't use the allen key. And don't let the studs spin when you torque the nuts on or they'll load into the block which counteracts the studs' clamping force.

It pains me to see people who genuinely don't understand the theory behind simple bolts. Just remember that the LAST thing you want is for the studs to bottom out.

 

My ARPs (D16Z6) dont have the allen key slot on them. Are they an older batch of studs?

 

From ARP's site:

Studs also provide more accurate and consistent torque loading. Here's why. When you use bolts to secure the head, the fastener is actually being "twisted" while it's being torqued to the proper reading. Accordingly, the bolt is reacting to two different forces simultaneously. A stud should be installed in a "relaxed" mode - never crank it in tightly using a jammed nut.

If everything is right, the stud should be installed finger tight. Then, when applying torque to the nut, the stud will stretch only on the vertical axis. Remember, an undercut shorter stud will have a rate similar to a longer, standard shank stud. This provides a more even clamping force on the head. Because the head gasket will compress upon initial torquing, make sure studs and bolts are re-torqued after the engine has been run.