I've got a 91 integra b18b1 swap in a 93 hatch I have a socketed p28 ecu with a basemap in it I'm trying to get it started I just got the swap done its getting fuel in the fuel rail and it primes when you start it but the injectors don't open it just builds up presure and blows an injector out of the fuel rail I have a resistor box wired in as well what could be the problem?

 

Oh and also it will start with starting fluid and run until its all burned up

 

Try a different ECU.

 

I've tryed a different ecu and nothing

 

I have 12v at the same colored wire at the injectors but no ground at the different colored wires not even when cranking the engine

 

So it seems like your using peak and hold injectors because of the resistor box.....if using the p28 the chip must be programmed to run with the peak and hold otherwise all p28 run stock saturated injectors which means no resisitor box

 

do an ohms test on each injector and let us know what you get

 

Wouldn't I still get a pulse at the ecu or injector clip tho?

 

My cel is on for codes 10 and 6 engine coolant temp sensor and intake air temp could either of these be causing this?

 

no...my guess is that either you're using a resistor box on injectors that don't require one, your ecu is bad, your wiring is bad, or your bassmap is bad...it would be best to start with a stock ecu and when u get it running move to a chipped one

 

Hook up a noid light to the plugs of each injector. While cranking make sure it lights up. If it lights up the injector is to blame. I they dont light up then you must determine if power gets to the injector. Its a simple circuit. power goes through the resistor box and eventually to injectors. Make sure there is power before and after resister box. Then check for ground. The ecu grounds the injectors.

 

Ok im getting .3 ohms at each injector and ive used a noid light it has the 12v constant but the different colored wire on each injector is not getting a pulse from the ecu ive tryed switching to obd1 injectors without a resistor box and still nothing whats my next move? Plz help haha im goin crazy

 

Check for power at IGP1 and IGP2 at the ECU/ECM, both must have power when ign. switch is in the run and start positions. 94

 

wait a minute here. You said you used the noid light. Are you telling me it stays lit the whole time or it doesn light up?

 

.3 ohms or 3 ohms ?

You need to check the injectors themselves for ohms specifically. If they have 3-5 ohms you need a resistor box to run them. If they have 8-11(something like this) you delete the resistor box.

 

I have power at both IGP1 and IGP2 in both positions and the 12v positive is constant but there is no ground pulse i even checked for ground pulse at the ecu

 

Could it be a bad dizzy

 

lol i guess you're just skipping right over my posts...okay

btw there is always power at the injectors...the ecu just toggles the ground side

good luck

 

Imma throw in my 2 cents cause i had this problem dump the box and use obd1 injectors while youre ignition is on you should have power to all 4 injectors the ecu should pulse them while turning over and running. Just make sure youre dizzy and ecu match in obd. If you covered these and still no pulse check youre grounds.

 

DO you use TPS? I would think either the ecm is not getting relationship or its bad. You can take it apart and examine for deterioration. Are your operating MAF?

 

To confirm the injectors aren't stuck you can also use a 9v battery to pulse them manually, out of the car. Just touch wire leads between the battery and injector pins momentarily to see if they open and close. If they don't the injectors are stuck and you should have them cleaned.

Also as a side note, your injectors should never 'blow out of your rail'... something is wrong there if they are able to come out or even leak. If you have an aftermarket intake manifold or rail you should confirm injector and seal fitment. If you have stock then something else is going on.

Good luck!