just got the new IACV put in and reset the ECU and still getting the CEL code 14..im lost now. someone help me...also i idle at 500-600 when i put the hose back on the intake manifold(on the passenger side, near the throttle body). but when i take the vacum hose off my idle goes up to 900. help i dont know whats going on

 

welcome to the club

 

Sorry if I didn't check your page, but what engine are you using?

Why not just bypass the IACV? I did, along with my TB. You'll have a little bit of a rough idle on cold starts, but at least you don't have hot coolant going through your TB warming the air.


jB

 

hmm... you say the iacv just makes hot coolant go thru the TB? I thought it was connected to the intake manifold? And anyway if it IS... could a problem with the coolant system cause the IACV to throw a CEL code? Cause maybe it's not the actual IACV that's faulty. I think I'm gonna take mine back to the dealer as soon as i get a stock fpr.

 

On my engine (and I say this because I am still not sure which engine he's running), a hose goes from the steel pipe under the intake manifold, up to the IACV, to the TB, then back down in to the intake manifold. You can bypass the IACV and TB, and send the hoses straight back in to the manifold. I still have my IACV hooked up, but it's capped off. On the D series engines, I am not sure though. Where do the 2 hoses coming in/out of your IACV lead to?

jB

 

one i know runs to the intake manifold i think... i only looked at it once. and the other one goes to the pcv system (i think? it's like a black resorvior against the passenger side firewall)

 

well...i got my problem fixed two days ago. went to the dealer and they gave me a new valve and they put it in. Problem solved and im happy with eveerything. Just make sure you have the right one for your cars and for your year. my old iac valve was from a97 civic and it didnt do a good enough job so they replaced it.

 

So u think maybe the honda dealer gave me an older iacv? cause they claimed to have replaced it.

 

im running a B18c1 and i just put on a brand new IACV. i dont know whats wrong. when i take off the hose from the vacum line (on the back of the intake manifold, right by the throttle body) off my idle jumps to 900 rpms. and CEL is on..code 14 and 3. it sounds great. but when i put the hose back on to the vacum line idle goes down to 5-600 and stalls out sometimes when istop. when i run AC my idle drops reguardless of if the hose is hooked or not.

 

mine is a d16y8... i made a post about mine also here...
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?&i...postid=1598883

 

i just read your past threads CivicRyda2k..this sucks...

when im cruising down the street in order for my car not to stall out 90% of the time, i have to down shift through every gear, all the way down to 2nd and push in the clutch and the brake until about 1Krpm and then i take my foot off the clutch. the idle ranges from 2-3pms(almost stalling out) to 5-6rpm( still low). i cant just be crusin and when i hit a redlight just go to nuetral and cruise it out or the car will stall. i have replaced my IACV 2 twice. and it cant be that acura sold me 2 wack *** IACV. when i turn on my AC my car will stall out when i stop. but on my intake manifold(b18c1, GS-R) the vacum hose right after the TB on the back side of the manifold, when i take the hose off the vacum line the idle jumps to 9rpms and then when i turn on my AC the idle is about 750rpm(perfect) but throw 2 codes MAP and IACV. when i put the hose back on the vacum line the idle drops low to 4-6rpm and my engine starts shaking like its not getting enough fuel or something. i need help this is getting on my nerves and i dont want to go to acura. they will chare an arm and a leg. and riding at low rpms(like in 2nd gear) sucks, massive shaking. can anyone help. maybe i should try to check out another ECU or something.

 

damn... that sux... mine is the opposite of that. Mine... the RPMS stay too high... the car is HARD to stall out. With mine, if I'm in first and I start rolling, i have to like FLOOR the brakes to make the car stall otherwise it will just shudder like it's about to stall but it won't, then when i come off the brakes... the rpms FLY up... kinda like an automatic car. Weird. I've experienced that shaking in 2nd gear however. Mine only happens when the CEL initially goes off (and the rpms sky to 2000 and bounce voilently between 2000 and 2200).

 

Question also. What mods do you have done to your car? or what did you have PRIOR to the problem?

 

well i didnt even have these problems until i blew my timing belt. and took it to the mechanic and they fixed it. they all of a sudden my CEL comes on. i have I/h/e/ and low compression pistons and eagle rods. stock FPR, RC 310 injectors, stock fuel rail, high flow inline fuel pump. fields Vafc, but the car was working perfectly then all of a sudden this ****. I checked the sensor and its getting 12 volts. how do you check the IACV witha ground again. i wonder if its my ECU. how can i check that? besides swapping it out.

 

I would check the fast idle thermo valve. Which sit's under the throttle body.
To check to see if your IACV is working take it of and run power to it from
your battery. You will here the vavle work with just the power current from
your battery.

 

aiight imma go out and try it now..

 

I have tried another ECU maybe it might work for you though. I guess that rules out the FPR for me too cause u have a stock one and ur getting the CEL's still

 

gonna try it when i get home too

 

oh yeah... if this helps any. the car idles really high on a start when the car's hot... like when i'm at work and it's sitting in the sun for a while... when i start the car.. the idle jumps up to like 2k and stays there for a while until i start to drive it.

 

Man I don't even know why you bought a new IAC valve! I knew it wasn't the problem. Give it to me I'll fix it. Just gotta sit down and look somethings over. We're missing something.

 

well bring your *** to my house Speedymon. its not the IACV. i just checked it and it clicked. so WTF is up!! checked my TPS and its good. im lost. ray come over i need to check your helms


[Modified by B18C-RnVA, 2:11 AM 5/11/2002]

 

so why is the ECU given me the code.. i went and checked teh IACV and it clicked so its good. i wonder is it the ECU??? i went and lowered my fuel -10 across teh board. with my vafc. im running 310cc anyways so it wont hurt it. now im throwing MAP code, the iacv code, and the TPS code. i checked the TPS and its was good. maybe my ecu is fucked up.

 

I just thought of something... when the idle problems FIRST started... it would only idle bad if i ran the car hard.