I have built an ls/v-tec, itis stock as **** how long should it last...
I heard that the oil ports a v-tec block has an ls doesn't and that why the hybrid never really last..Please let me know what you guys think...

 

Personally, I think an engine is only as good as the person who builds it, regardless if the engine is ls-vtec or otherwise. A well-built engine that is properly maintained by the owner shouldnt have a problem, unless the ls-vtec setup has some specific problems that a lot of other people have been facing.

 

ttt

 

You did run an oil line to the head... right?

 

search

 

so true. Mine lasted just fine for 9 monthes of ONLY ******* it. It was my weekend warrior. I hydrolocked it (nothing wrong), always put POS Discount Auto Parts oil in it, and wrapped it way past the suggested 7K+ redline. Rodbolts should have been toast, but eh.

Just depends on who builds it, how much time and skill

 

I've seen more reliable ls-vtec's than the newer celica's. 4 of my close friends that have 00 celicas have had problems.

 

It really depends on what parts are used and who did the thinking behind the motor. You could build an LSVT with all stock parts and it could last and last... but you need to put in the RIGHT stock parts.

Did you use a vtec oil pump ? ARP rod bolts ? Balanced anything ? How often do you push it to 8K ? What length oil line to the head did you use ? It really all depends.

 

LS VTEC....well the ls motor has great bottom end torque and adding a vtec head to it will add great power for high end so you have right there a powerful motor, but the ls motor no matter what you do to an LS VTEC the ls bottom end cannot handle high revs. Someone once said "if honda never made it then it was never reliabe", which in case is true. Your better off buying a GSR Full swap. With the money for a LSVTEC Full swap your talking about purchasing rear motor mounts, left motor mounts, right trans mount, lower trans mount, 2 front axles, ECU, and might as well purchase a performance fly wheel and clutch and all that right there is more than a gsr full swap. You might think your getting your money's worth but wouldn't you rather have a motor that honda built stock that can last you more than less than a year. Plus the LS Block has no oil squirters that shoot up at the pistons like the GSR does from which i was informed from a tech who's gone through plenty of frankenstein vtec swaps. Your better off purchasing a GSR motor and building that up going Naturally aspirated or turbo charged.

 

i agree, if you want a 2.0 VTEC bore out your b16 block. because b18a & b20 dont have a high revving rod-stroke ratio which will wear out your cylinder walls faster than normal. they also dont have oil squirters to help cool down the rods and pistons at high rpm's. you also have to throw on a block girdle to make sure the block doesnt flex since nonVTEC blocks were only made to see around 7500 at most. i personally think just stick with the VTEC block. for the money buy a b18c block and build a poor mans type r. but hey its your choice. do what you want.

 

Actually the LSVT is what is called the poor man's type R...

Rods don't need to be cooled, the squirters are there for cooling the piston and adding some lubrication to the cylinder walls.

If you bored a stock B16 to 2.0, you'd need a new block. The R/S ratio is not as detrimental as you may have read about... a D16 has a worse R/S ratio than an LS.... haven't you heard of all motor LS's running past 8K ? The bottom end only needs upgraded rod bolts to pass 7500 safely and premature ring wear due to a poor R/S ratio is overly touted, it takes a long time (miles) to see that type of wear, which can be easily remedied with an align hone on the next rebuild.

The main problem with an LSVT, is that to make it last and run well, alot of planning is needed and specific, proven parts should be used.... just slapping one together will likely result in an early death of the motor as there are many factors that should be considered when attempting this type of 'conversion'.

X2

 

bump

 

all it takes is the right tunning and the right combination of pistons........it all a heat thing when ya rev high.......so what does that tell ya.......work on keeping your motor cool....it can be done....good luck.........stay coll........haaaaaa

 

Oohh...I'd say it's a little more than just heat and new pistons....

 

mine is working fine so far... making lots of power. I'll keep you posted if it blows up.

 

mine is working better than expected making very good power..

 

imo i would jsut buy an oem vtec motor. i dont think nonvtec motor converted to vtec would last and be so reliable. someone i know has a crvtec used to spanky built itr's ,but now he cant even beat a gsr.

 

I don't know where all of these negative comments about the LS/VTEC are coming from. I've had my setup for over a year with no problems. First I heard about leaking oil and mine never did.Then it was going past 8k, and still no problem. The only suggestions I have are find someone who knows what he's doing and replace the driver's side motor mount ( went through 3 of them) other than that you'll be fine.

 

Uh-oh... maybe i should stop going to 8.2k at least 3 times a day everyday in my car.... --cant help it tho! ...

It'll be soo over when i get my cams and valve springs!!! 9.5k probably at least once a day!!!

DAMN THOSE LOW GEAR RATIOS!!


[Modified by 10K2HVN, 10:36 PM 10/31/2002]


[Modified by 10K2HVN, 10:37 PM 10/31/2002]

 

What ECU are you running to go past 8K ? Stock tach isn't exactly precise...

The reason you heard not to go past 8K is that, 1) The stock valve train wasn't designed for it on most vtec heads as you can run into floating problems (cam speed overpowers spring tension) and 2) The stock LS rod bolts are not the best and tend to stretch at that high of an RPM, eventually causing enough play to allow a rod bearing(s) to spin in place (bad) and lastly, the LS block lacks a crank girdle, which is present on the on the GSR which BTW, has a R/S ratio pretty close to the LS's touted 'bad R/S'. The girdle gives the mains more strength to hold the crank in place under high rpm operation.

X2

 

I still have my stock GSR ECU, i dont know why it doesnt cut out at 8k anymore it did before i did the swap... my friend said my ECU was broken, but he fixed it - maybe he did something else too.. or maybe the dasmn tach isnt as accurate as before, because that thing went up to 8100-8200 ! ! !

Gee, i was pretty worked up about getting a B20Vtec, but now kyou guys are buzzin' my kill...

^lol i dont even drink, but i always seem to put beers...

oh yeah, im getting a new ECU soon, i think its suppose to be a chiped SOHC Vtec ECU...


[Modified by 10K2HVN, 8:45 PM 11/1/2002]