How to keep crank pulley from moving?
Somehow, the crank pulley bolt decided to back out. It came loose and my belts fell off somewhere on I-85. I made it home and checked it out.
How do you keep the crank pulley from moving so it can be torqued back down? This is on an H22a4, if you're wondering.
[Modified by Prelude_RCR, 7:25 AM 11/11/2002]
How do you keep the crank pulley from moving so it can be torqued back down? This is on an H22a4, if you're wondering.
[Modified by Prelude_RCR, 7:25 AM 11/11/2002]
if the pulley came off, your probably missing the little metal shim that holds the pulley in place so that it doesn't rotate on the crank. but to torque the bolt back down i would HIGHLY recommend using a crank pulley holder similar to what snap on makes, and a big torque wrench. on the b18 it gets torqued to something like 134ft/lb, your spec may be different.
The pulley was still hanging on, so it didn't completely fall off. I'll have to double check that shim/key if it's still there.
How much do those pulley holders go for? Thanx!
How much do those pulley holders go for? Thanx!
There should be a service access hole on the side closest to firewall. You can insert a long bolt, in the helms it tells you what size bolt. I have used a big screwdriver before in a pinch.
You could buy expensive tools, or you could do it the backyard special way... Get a piece of Nylon rope from home depot or somewhere like that... not the soft stuff, but the stuff made from individual strands of almost plastic. you don't really want it any bigger than .5cm, otherwise it won't work.
Take out one of your spark plugs, and push the rope down into the combustion chamber when the piston is at Bottom dead Center, then with all the crank pulley parts on and ready, torque it down with a 1/2 drive torque wrench w/ the 19mm socket, a LONG extension, then a huge galvanized steal pipe over the handle of the wrench, to use as a breaker bar. Instead of the crank moving, it will move until the rope stops the piston from traveling any futher up in the combustion chamber, allowing you to torque away.
Take out one of your spark plugs, and push the rope down into the combustion chamber when the piston is at Bottom dead Center, then with all the crank pulley parts on and ready, torque it down with a 1/2 drive torque wrench w/ the 19mm socket, a LONG extension, then a huge galvanized steal pipe over the handle of the wrench, to use as a breaker bar. Instead of the crank moving, it will move until the rope stops the piston from traveling any futher up in the combustion chamber, allowing you to torque away.
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are you SURE that will not damage a piston?
i guess not, but damn, that must be some old school method from wayyyy back...
i will use it next time for sure! (does it work for removeing hte bolt too? it must!)
t..
i guess not, but damn, that must be some old school method from wayyyy back...
i will use it next time for sure! (does it work for removeing hte bolt too? it must!)
t..
Yeah, it works, I've done it on 5 cars, and that's what all my Honda buddies do as well... at least the few of use that don't have the convenience of 75+ galon air compressors, and heavy impact tools. It won't damage the piston, but just don't lose the rope in there
that would be no bueno. Don't pull the rope out, just rotate the crank back down to bottom dead center, then pull the rope out.
Welcome to home-honda tuning 101.
that would be no bueno. Don't pull the rope out, just rotate the crank back down to bottom dead center, then pull the rope out. Welcome to home-honda tuning 101.
Welcome to home-honda tuning 101.
http://www.geocities.com/b16aprelude/blockremoval.html
your little tidbit will stop me wedging a screwdriver up into the flywheel to stop it turning...
t..
haha, that's hillarious! Very nice. I could also add chapters like using an open-end wrench to stop the flywheel while tightening the flywheel bolts
We do a couple methods...
I have an UO Racing aluminum pully which is pretty fragile, so have to be careful ******* up the alluminum. One is where I use a Craftsman band wrench, its pretty gentle, and we're able to torque it down to the correct setting doing that.
Other way only works if the tranny is off, put one of the block-tranny bolts in, and put a screwdriver (big) into one of the teeth of the flywheel. Similar to the SST that honda has for holding the ring teeth.
A couple people have mentioned using a impact wrench--I'm not really sure how using a impact wrench would help here. That is more useful removing it rather then torquing it down.
My IQ also dropped about 5 points after reading that bit about the half-cut motor removal.
I have an UO Racing aluminum pully which is pretty fragile, so have to be careful ******* up the alluminum. One is where I use a Craftsman band wrench, its pretty gentle, and we're able to torque it down to the correct setting doing that.
Other way only works if the tranny is off, put one of the block-tranny bolts in, and put a screwdriver (big) into one of the teeth of the flywheel. Similar to the SST that honda has for holding the ring teeth.
A couple people have mentioned using a impact wrench--I'm not really sure how using a impact wrench would help here. That is more useful removing it rather then torquing it down.
My IQ also dropped about 5 points after reading that bit about the half-cut motor removal.
Impact gun!
5 hp compressor with a 15-20 gallon tank and some sockets as well as a jack.
You'll be able to do the timing belt yourself after. You may as well spend the money on tools instead of giving it to a mech or dealership.
This is the time (only?) when an auto is better than a manual!!!
With the driveplate locked with this under a dollar setup, I can unbolt and torque the crank pulley bolt easily. still need a long breaker bar though.
[Modified by D15B7, 9:54 AM 11/12/2002]
[Modified by D15B7, 9:54 AM 11/12/2002]
With the driveplate locked with this under a dollar setup, I can unbolt and torque the crank pulley bolt easily. still need a long breaker bar though.
[Modified by D15B7, 9:54 AM 11/12/2002]
[Modified by D15B7, 9:54 AM 11/12/2002]
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