ok guys. I have a code 10 ( IAT sensor ) on my 94 civic/B18C1 vehicle. How do I fix this to get my check engine light to shut off. Thx guys.

 

Check for busted open or shorted wires to the sensor. If that's all good, change the sensor.

 

i had this problem awhile ago and this what i did you rid myself of having to buy a new one.

1. remove the sensor and clean it with iso alcohol
2. clean both the female and male ends of the plugs with the alcohol
3. then clean your air filter.

this what i did and i have not got the code since, i believe it was mainly because i had not changed or clean my air filter in about 6 months...

try it and see

 

Thx guys for the 411.

 

LOL, i just had this problem 10 mins ago in the garage, i just finished my swap and it threw that code.. turned out i had it plugged into the AICV instead,, oops. For those of you that are prolly thinkin "ok dumbass" i have a skunk2 mani,, and the sensors are in totally different spots, i had to lengthen the AIT in order for it to reach.

 

ok, I found out that the wires ( red/green ) were crimped and used for an extenstion when we tried applying a JG intake manifold last year. Didn't work out so well, so I place the stock intake manifold back on. I went back and soldiered the wires together and finished it off with some heat shrink tubing; and resetted the ecu. This was all done monday (10/5). Drove the car this whole week and just this morning, got the same c.e.l. ( code 10 ). Re-checked the connections and soldiering points. When the car is on, the c.e.l. will not come on until 20 minutes later. Any suggestions before I purchase a OEM IAT sensor from http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.com ??? Thx guys.

 

the solder probably changed the resistance in the wires..im not sure about this but i know there are a couple different kinds of solder..

 

im using 60/40 soldier right now. What kinda soldier should I be using ? I know that there are many combinations of silver / tin combinations, but what combination is good for automotive ? You have a good point there spaceman. Thx.

 

tops

 

Katman: Any suggestions !!

 

the solder i got says electrical on it,try that or maybe the sensor is bad im not sure

 

thx

 

top

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Roger &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im using 60/40 soldier right now. What kinda soldier should I be using ? I know that there are many combinations of silver / tin combinations, but what combination is good for automotive ? You have a good point there spaceman. Thx.</TD></TR></TABLE>

60/40 is fine. If you have an ohmmeter check the resistance of the sensor. Check it at room temp and then heat it with hot water and watch for a change in resistance.

 

Take the sensor out and check to make sure its ok, ie. not melted or anything weird. If its ok, check the resistance, I forget how much it should be, check a Helms manual. Then if either are wrong, replace it. Reset ECU and try again. Make sure you are using the correct plug too.

 

The ECT and IAT sensors share the same voltage/resistance relationship. Sooo, with the car completely cold, you can check the resistance of both the ECT and IAT and they should be roughly equivalent. If not, then you located your problem.

EDIT: Disconnect the sensors from the main wire harness when checking thier resitances.

0F = 15k ohm
32F = 5k ohm
68F = 3k ohm

 

thx guys. I know this info can be informative for others that have this issue.