Anyone knows if their's a company that can build a block higher than stock for H serie engine??

i've searched and only came with deck plate, but don't think it's the better solution since the deck plate might leak or fail, which wouldn't be a good thing at high RPM on high powered engine.

I've asked some company for custom block but the price was 20 K$ for engeneering plus 7K$ for 1 block and a must buy of 4, so 48K$ for a block

don't want to pay that much

any idea??

 

anyone?

 

there are many machine shops that have had great success with deckplates, check around.

 

If you really do want a custom block contact Dart... I don't really know what they can do or what you are looking for but that's the best option I can think of besides a deckplate...

 

i've contacted them, but they refered me to ERL performance for deck plates

and what i'm looking for is to get a longer rod on my h23 crankshaft to get less stress on high rpm, so with a good valve train the engine will be confortable at 10K

 

Have fun with the tranny next... Those damn Lude trannies tend to act weird at high rpm...

 

what is the problem?? they overheat? are not enough balanced for the job??

 

deck plate is the best way to go...if you take it to a good machine shop it should have no problem with leaking....ih series tranny's usually act weird at high rpm and high hp...their cable shifted so the action is smoother but not as accurate...

 

ok, but again, anyone knows why they act funny??? the tranny isn't bought yet, and I can do a while with my F tranny (from my accord 6th gen) so at the same time I could put the H tranny in better condition for High reving.

1) can swap to hydraulic shift
2) can coat the gears if the problem is overheating or it has problem with high hp!!

 

i have a 3/4 dp h22 stroked to a 2.6. the deck plate is definitely
not a problem if done right.if you are going to do one ,don't do
a closed deck,cooling issues a rise.i have my sleeves protruding above the
deck 4-6 ths,the sleeve it self is the o-ring.what kind of r/r are
you looking for.the r/r on my 2.6 is 1.65,yes guys the rod is lonnnnnggggg.
but she is also sooooooooo lite.


but on a different note,i have another deck plate laying here,
if your looking for one.but you may want to shave it down it is also 3/4
very nice piece,or i can make you one,which ever you prefer.

 

i'm looking for something close to 1.75 r/s with pauter titanium rods and custom piston with the compression height to be able to reach that ratio, and 89mm, to get 2.36L, so would need 1" deck plate

the block is already bought, and it's a h23 so closed deck. But I actually wanted the crankshaft

what are the approx prices for deck plates? 1"

for your proposition, I' m from canada, a lot of the things i'll have to order will come from USA, so I must carefully planned my things so I don't have to pay 4000$ in shipememt!!

 

my 2.6 motor has titanium rods,they are custom made.
also the deck you are asking about is 275 plus shipping.you realize
that when you run a 1" dp you will have to have a custom belt,but i'm pretty
sure you know which one it is?


so you are wanting a 89 mm stroke and a r/r 1.74"b16".i will im you
tonight with some #'s.now that closed deck 2.3 can be cut out for better cooling.
just im me for details.

i can also make the titanium rods you need,once we figure out the lenght
you need.NOW ARE YOU SURE YOU WANT TO DO 1" dp.

i have a few more ideas that might help you in making a decision,just trying to help.

 

also bore x stroke= displacement it does not matter how thick
the dp is,all the dp does is allow you to run a longer rod,that is it.

 

with a 3/4" deck plate you need custom timing belt too

under my hood I have at least more than 2" clearance, i've tried it, and under a 6th gen accord, I have plenty of room

unless you have something telling me I shouldn't go with 1", yes i'm sure, since if i'm going with let say 3/4" i'll need a 1" compression height piton, which seems pretty much low, and maybe unreliable under boost!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1700anddroping &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also bore x stroke= displacement it does not matter how thick
the dp is,all the dp does is allow you to run a longer rod,that is it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah knew it, it's really just for the rod ratio

 

just because you run a 3/4 dp.it does not mean
your ch is 1".that is the most you would want to go.
i am REALLY PUSHING IT ON MY OVER 6" ROD.but we learn from
our mistakes,or do we.

 

little math

( 3.74"/2 (half strk) ) + ( 1.75 x 3.74 (r/s of 1.75)) + ( 0" (piston to deck clearance)) = 8.415" with no piston

so if I have a deck plate of 3/4" from a 8.655" deck, it will give me 9.405 deck height, so 9.405-8.415=.990" of compression height, and with a 1" deck it will give me a 1.240" c-h which would give me enough space for the rings, anyway i haven't seen any c-h with 1", they are usually for n/a applications, from what i've searched

 

yes if you want a 1.75 r/r.but my r/r is not.
i do not go below 1" on ch,it is not good to.i
don't like bringing the ring way up on the piston.

and my 2.6 is gonna be turboed not n/a

 

it's turbo!! not N/A

I don't want to go with 1" ch too, that's why I want 1" deck plate and not 3/4"

 

i completely under stand.good luck on your set up.