i have a lsv i just did the head gasket on it....when i turn the car on it idles at 1000rpm but as the car warms up it the rpms raise to i have already adjusted the thing where you put a flat head to it nows stops at 1500 but i cant adjust it anymore... any advice would be nice

 

try cleaning the IACV and check for vacuum leaks

 

Was the idle persistent before replacing or only after?
Does it consistently idle that high, or does it eventually set back down after running for a while?
Is there any roaming/hunting/bouncing of the idle?

Right off the bat, with the information you gave, i want to say iacv problem. If you have rapid hunting, it could be vacuum leak or excessive air into the system.
Other than that, check tps, or that the throttle body completely closes at idle (.5 i believe on the multimeter).
Finally, check coolant for air. Coolant system with air pockets can cause higher idle, but in my experience, have caused more subtle roaming.


The 3 final areas i would check are ignition timing, idle air screw (which is what i think you adjusted already), and resetting the ecu.

Personally, i only use the idle air screw to adjust the idle once coolant system checks out (no air, no leaks, functioning iacv/fast idle, vacuum checks out, and ignition timing has been set. That's when I would go in and set screw so idle rests around 750. I actually put mine at 800 because the car shakes less (have stiffer motor mounts).
Note that newer models don't have the fast idle that i mentioned, so that may not apply.

I just got through my high/roaming idle problems (knock on wood), and the above steps are all of what i went through my self.
Culprit seemed to be either air in coolant, iacv, or throttle body not closing all the way. I can't say for sure because it all was checked at the same time (i started with throttle body, which led to getting air in the coolant from disconnecting the lines, then said might as well clean out iacv).


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Both awesome answers

 

ok thanks before i pulled the head off it was idling steady....i flushed my coolant system 3 times it was full of chunks so am take the iacv off and clean it out tomorrow(iam in germany so it 9pm already)....... but when i fill my coolant system up i just leave the cap off and let all the air out..... should i try to reset that idle air screw back to normal? and i dont have a timing light so i eye balled it.... should i get a timing light

 

just check the iacv to see if it had all the hoses connected to it and one of them is disconnected could that cause the problem?

 

What, how did you eye ball it?? The marks are hard as hell to see, even with the light. I would suggest getting a light, a cheap one is only like 30$.

Yea, chunks in the coolant system isn't normal. Is it just dirt, or is it like oil and metal? If the chunks are persistent after a few flushes, might have a problem there.

Definitely take off iacv and clean it with brake cleaner (i think), just spray it in there, and drain it a few times, then soak it for a few minutes, then drain and air dry. Not sure if that's the correct way, but it's how i was told.

I wouldn't really mess with the idle screw without making sure everything else is as it should be first. Maybe let the screw out most of the way before you go to do the timing, that way there should be enough air so that the engine doesn't choke. In my experience, the screw has never needed to be either fully in nor out


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If coolant isn't getting to the iacv, the valve might not know when to shut, if it's not shut, it usually lets enough air through to idle around 1500 on cold start, if everything else is good... Kind of sounds like your problem, but if you have an open coolant line, i wouldn't think your system would be holding coolant. Are you noticeably losing coolant?


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Also when cleaning the iacv, after you soak it, wash it out with water before air dry. For bleeding coolant, usually you jack up front of car a little so gravity takes coolant into engine easier. Have the heater on full heat, but leave fan off. Let fan cycle usually 2 or so times topping off coolant when needed.

Taking off the iacv will probably require you to drain coolant, at least when i did mine, it did.


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its not losing coolant from what i can tell but the line that is disconnected is the one the connects to the coolant pipe i think thats what its called........ because when i 1st start the car up its idles a little below1000 but as it warms up its goes up to 1500 which i guess makes sense with that you said

 

Just for fun, you could disconnect the iacv, then just start and idle for a few minutes and see if that changes anything.

You should get a cel code if you disconnect the iacv.


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What's weird, though, is it should start up cold around 1500, and if the iacv isn't working, should stay around 1500, not warm up to it... How long does it usually take to get to 1500? Like as long as it usually takes to warm down to 750?


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Is there a check engine light?

 

The heat in the car doesnt work they stole the climate control out of it and cut the wiring harness lol so i have a replacement climate control but no wiring harness ....so is there any other way of getting all the air out with out turning the heat on maybe thats another one of my problems

 

It might not matter, then. The real reason you turn the heat on is because it opens a valve, that runs coolant into the cabin, which is used to heat the running air. This effectively adds more volume to the amount of coolant needed to fill the system. If you can't use the heater, and it is "permanently" closed, then I would assume that there wouldn't be a problem, since its basically not part of the system anymore.

 

This system needs coolant flowing through it to work correctly. I believe your engine does not have a Cold Fast Idle Valve and relies entirely on the ecu controlled/coolant moderated Idle Air Control Valve to control engine idle. Having a coolant line disconnected takes away it's functionality. i.e it's not closing when the engine gets hot, and allowing too much air into the engine - high idling.

connect the line and bleed your coolant system. The problem should disappear.

as far as getting your heater to work without a harness, "hot-wiring" can be done electronically and possibly manually depending on your vehicle. but i would suggest finding a harness and splicing it together.

 

That's what i was thinking, but it doesn't make sense it would cold start 1k, then warm up to 1500



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iono today when i was check the iacv the line that was disconnected.....the place that it connects on the coolant pipe it had a piece of hose and then a bolt so it was plugged up....so i message the guy that owned the car before (he moved to PR) and am in germany so its hard to get ahold of him.... he said that he always disconnects that line.....so i cleaned the IACV havnt put it back on yet
ME
Hey is there a reason y u disconnected that coolant line going to the iacv ?

Him
yeah that does nothing at all
only reason for that is so the tb expands and the trhottle dosent get sticky

ME
Lol ok cuz everyone is telling me does
They told me to clean it out which i just did

HIM
yeah.i had never run that on any of my cars

 

I cleaned the iacv and put it on

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...ps9b2fc126.mp4
Its idleing at 1000rmp now when its warmed up

Does anybody know what that ticking is
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...pse34d4059.mp4

Lmk if the links dont work

 

Any advice on the ticking

 

When you put the iacv back on, were you able to get the coolant lines connected?

if yes, then next step is to set ignition timing, then adjust idle air screw on throttle body. Should be able to get it set to spec at around 750ish rpms.
I'd almost consider resetting the ecu so it can store new "maps" so to speak.

As for the ticking, can't really tell, I'm on my phone. If it's coming from the belt area, check to see if there's cables or other **** catching on some of the belts. If it's coming from head, you may need to have valves adjusted, or possibly other internal mechanical issue.

I'll try to remember to check video again when i get home to better hear the sound


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Before you start tearing stuff apart, try and pin point where the sound is coming from. Also, I'd be a bit weary on driving hard for the time being


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My car wasn't hitting vtec so i looked around in my engine bay for a little. scratched my head and realized that i had my vtec and ect plugs switched up now when i turn my car on it idles at 1500 is that normal i know its a stupid question..

 

when i disconnect the iacv the car acts like its going to shut off...i drove it to work today and when i turn it on it idles at 1500 but when i drive and then stop in netural its goes to 1500 then drops to 800 and if i just tap the gas it shoots up to 1500 then slowly makes its way back down

 

I followed everything in this link http://www.superhonda.com/forum/f55/...oblems-259965/ now when i turn the car on it idles at like 1200 then goes down to 800 after like a minute or two but now when i stop at a light n put it in neutral it jumps up to 1500 then down to 1000 then back up to 1500 then down to 800