Help me with my timing issue on B16
On my 94 Del Sol B16 (Stock, only CAI, HighFlow Cat)
I swapped DIzzys with a friend to check a problem a while back....then put mine back on....
Since then, my timing has been slighty retarded at idle (maybe a degree or two), and my dizzy will not turn anymore to advance it.
So, can I turn my dizzy the other way to "Seriously" retard the timing, then unplug the battery to reset the ECU....had have the computer fix my timing ?
or will that not work ?
I swapped DIzzys with a friend to check a problem a while back....then put mine back on....
Since then, my timing has been slighty retarded at idle (maybe a degree or two), and my dizzy will not turn anymore to advance it.
So, can I turn my dizzy the other way to "Seriously" retard the timing, then unplug the battery to reset the ECU....had have the computer fix my timing ?
or will that not work ?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ApolloSpeed »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So, can I turn my dizzy the other way to "Seriously" retard the timing, then unplug the battery to reset the ECU....had have the computer fix my timing ?</TD></TR></TABLE>I don't believe that will do what you want.
Are you sure your camshaft timing is OK?
Are you sure your camshaft timing is OK?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ApolloSpeed »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">JUMP the service connector ? What exactly is that.....and how do I do this ?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
The service connector is the same connector you jump to check your CEL codes.
Check out this link, its has a nice write up http://www.c-speedracing.com/h...g.php
</TD></TR></TABLE>The service connector is the same connector you jump to check your CEL codes.
Check out this link, its has a nice write up http://www.c-speedracing.com/h...g.php
SO you just jump the connect (like checking codes) while your adjusting your timing huh ?
I'll give it a try later tonight to see if that works....
I'll give it a try later tonight to see if that works....
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Jumpering that connector tells the ECU to QUIT making it's constant little timing adjustments. Always should have that jumper in when measuring spark timing.
Got a timing light with an advance dial? If so, set it to ZERO.
The single line on the pulley is TDC, & the 3 lines together are stock timing with +/- tolerance. So with the timing light set to zero, you shoot for the center (bigger) of the group of three.
If you dial 16 degrees into the light (without moving the distributor), it should show the TDC line at the pointer.
If you shoot for the stock (16 BTDC) marks, with the light set for 16 degrees, then you're really trying to set 32 degrees BTDC. In that case it's no surprise you can't get there...
The single line on the pulley is TDC, & the 3 lines together are stock timing with +/- tolerance. So with the timing light set to zero, you shoot for the center (bigger) of the group of three.
If you dial 16 degrees into the light (without moving the distributor), it should show the TDC line at the pointer.
If you shoot for the stock (16 BTDC) marks, with the light set for 16 degrees, then you're really trying to set 32 degrees BTDC. In that case it's no surprise you can't get there...
my light has no advance **** on it.........but, I'm still reading slightly under 0 degrees.......
and when I rev the engine it only goes up to about 2 or 3 degrees BTDC.......
I tried jumping the connector over too.....but it seemed to do nothing
Modified by ApolloSpeed at 9:17 AM 5/19/2005
and when I rev the engine it only goes up to about 2 or 3 degrees BTDC.......
I tried jumping the connector over too.....but it seemed to do nothing
Modified by ApolloSpeed at 9:17 AM 5/19/2005
also, being like nearly 0 degrees base timing......wouldn't the car run extremely bad ? or Not ?
Cause it doesn't run bad......but I think it kinda lacks in power.....just a little bit.
Cause it doesn't run bad......but I think it kinda lacks in power.....just a little bit.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ApolloSpeed »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my light has no advance **** on it.........but, I'm still reading slightly under 0 degrees.......</TD></TR></TABLE>Then I'm confused. Did you verify your camshaft timing?
I always though jumpering the connector would get rid of annoying fluctuations when you're trying to measure. But some people have said it puts an obvious shift on the timing. Maybe only certain years? Did you have the jumper in properly - was the CEL turned on & not blinking?
If the timing were way back at zero I think it would REALLY lack power. Not very subtle. Maybe it would still run sorta smooth, but way down on power.
Is it possible your crank pully is messed up? I know it's a REAL pain, but you could take off the crank pulley & check the timing marks on the sprocket & oilpump housing.
I always though jumpering the connector would get rid of annoying fluctuations when you're trying to measure. But some people have said it puts an obvious shift on the timing. Maybe only certain years? Did you have the jumper in properly - was the CEL turned on & not blinking?
If the timing were way back at zero I think it would REALLY lack power. Not very subtle. Maybe it would still run sorta smooth, but way down on power.
Is it possible your crank pully is messed up? I know it's a REAL pain, but you could take off the crank pulley & check the timing marks on the sprocket & oilpump housing.
So, I need to check my camshaft timing...huh.....I just take that side cover off and look at both cam gear marks to see some sortof marking to line up ?
And yes, I jumped the connector and the CEL light lights up and just stays on (no blinking) while the engine is running.
And at idle.....it is like maybe 1 or 2 degrees btdc.....not really even close to the 14-18 degree marks.
Maybe your right.....the pulley marks could be bad ?
And yes, I jumped the connector and the CEL light lights up and just stays on (no blinking) while the engine is running.
And at idle.....it is like maybe 1 or 2 degrees btdc.....not really even close to the 14-18 degree marks.
Maybe your right.....the pulley marks could be bad ?
Take off top timing cover & turn engine (counterclockwise only) until the "UP" arrows on the camshaft sprockets start pointing sorta upwards. Then watch the crank pulley. Stop when you line up the single TDC mark.
The arrows are approximate. The real camshaft timing marks are little dimples out at the teeth. There's 2 on each sprocket, & all 4 are supposed to line up horizontally with the camshaft centers. Lay a straightedge across the ends of the 2 camshafts.
If it's not right, you'll have to take off the crank pulley & lower timing cover. (Find some instructions for changing the timing belt.) Now you can look for a little marking on the front face of the crankshaft timing sprocket. It's easiest to see from the wheel well, after removing the plastic liner. At TDC that should line up with a mark on the oilpump housing.
It's possible the timing belt has skipped a tooth. I guess it's possible the crank pulley is not lined up or it's woodruff key is missing? You just want to rule out simple stuff before doing this much work.
The arrows are approximate. The real camshaft timing marks are little dimples out at the teeth. There's 2 on each sprocket, & all 4 are supposed to line up horizontally with the camshaft centers. Lay a straightedge across the ends of the 2 camshafts.
If it's not right, you'll have to take off the crank pulley & lower timing cover. (Find some instructions for changing the timing belt.) Now you can look for a little marking on the front face of the crankshaft timing sprocket. It's easiest to see from the wheel well, after removing the plastic liner. At TDC that should line up with a mark on the oilpump housing.
It's possible the timing belt has skipped a tooth. I guess it's possible the crank pulley is not lined up or it's woodruff key is missing? You just want to rule out simple stuff before doing this much work.
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