check it out the thing worked perfect now yesterday stopped workin on one light work thats the battery one and the LIGHTS for the tachs work but all other, CEL, Highbeam, and what not dont work and i think its cuz of this (pretend thats index pointing down )....How do i fix sumtin like that, i was thinkin maybe that liquid they sell to fix rear defrosters??? Let me knwo if any of yous have done sumtin like this

 

what cluster is this.???

 

throw some solder on there...it should work perfect..

The only thing im worried about is, Why did that happen in the first place??...

 

there's such a thing as rear defroster repair kit. It is a stick on conductive strip....I would try that before sottering....I work at a Chevy dealership and we carry it (I know....chevy sucks, but it pays the bills)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Creator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">there's such a thing as rear defroster repair kit. It is a stick on conductive strip....I would try that before sottering....I work at a Chevy dealership and we carry it (I know....chevy sucks, but it pays the bills)</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah there is..try napa or autozone..they should have it..i remember seeing it there.

 

aight cool guys, i thought so about the whole Repair kit ive seen em already somewhere...ill give it a try and let everyone know how it goes

 

very easy fix. scrape off some of the insulator to expsose the copper some more on the broken trace. then just get the end off of a resistor or some copper strands from some speaker wire and just solder it on there. problem solved.

it looks like that portion of the trace that burned out was not quite right when the board was etched. like it was too small and could not carry the load on it...

 

BUMP just woke up

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fistandauntilus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">very easy fix. scrape off some of the insulator to expsose the copper some more on the broken trace. then just get the end off of a resistor or some copper strands from some speaker wire and just solder it on there. problem solved.

it looks like that portion of the trace that burned out was not quite right when the board was etched. like it was too small and could not carry the load on it... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Well i tried this,,,i didnt solder it but i put it to both sides and held it and nothing,,,im just gonna sell it im pissed

 

Im gonna put it in classifieds for sale

 

what cluster is it?!?!?

 

out of 2000 Si miles reset all the way to 000000 it was goin in 89(miles exempt in PA, and fresh rebuilt motor)

 

Just lay some solder on it, I did the same thing because my lights + Tach didnt work on my cluster.

 

I had the same exact problem and I was told the best thing was to use the defog repair kit on it. Try it b4 you quit, Ive been too busy on body work to get around to it.

 

**** is that where it is broken where that copper leads to is a yellow wire, that yellow wire doesnt even get hooked up?????

 

is the yellow wire on a 13 pin plug?

If it is, that yellow wire delivers power

 

i dont know but i know i neva had it hooked up and EVERYTHING worked and now it doesnt and that scrape goes to that yellow wire which ain even hooked up...WIERD???