well i dont know if i posted in here about this before... but ive been getting an intermittent cel and it goes on and shuts off all on its own..

well now i have the apexi timer in it i was viewing the voltage while driving and the cel came on again and turned off..

i was at a stop light and the cel came on and my voltage dropped from 12.7 at idle to 10.7 and the car died.. i turned the key off and restarted it with no problem.. and was driving and it did it again a bunch of times but didnt die every time i was moving..

the last time it came on i was driving and the voltage dropped from 13.4 to 11.7 and i have a picture of it and the car started sputtering..

i honestly have no idea what it could be.. i checked the codes but there is no codes anybody have an idea...

heres a pic of the voltage when i came to a stop



also when im driving and the cel comes on the car loses alot of power

 

Sounds like an alternator problem to me.

 

connection problem, especially since it's intermittent like that describe.

check the engine-chassis grounds and the thermostat ground. And make sure that the battery terminals are tight and well connected.

 

Highly Leaning twoards an Alternator

A Bad alternator can caus all sorts of wierd things from just a plain ol'e battery light comming on to Check engine lights...

Replace it and see if its fixed

 

how could the alternator cause a check engine light?

oh well.. idk

so heres my problem now.. i dont know what alternator to get.. i have a 95 civic with a 97 itr motor and the harness is obd2a but it has obd1 plugs at the firewall.. im honestly thinking its teh harness...

the injector clips are obd2 and the dizzy clip is obd2.. so should i just get the 97 gsr alternator? or go for the 95 gsr alternator?

i dont know if theres a difference between the obd2 alternators and the obd1 with the wiring clip

 

there is a difference between obd1 and obd2 alternator plugs. obd1 is a circle plug and obd2 is a much smaller square plug. check all connections before replacing.

 

If its obd2; an alternator problem can easily cause a CEL cause of the ELD.

What year Is the car? The motor? What harness? What ecu?

 

its a 95 civic ex with a 97 itr swap.. the harness is something hard for me to explain cuz ive never seen anything like it.. so idk what it is.. at the firewall plugs, they are obd1 and all the other plugs are obd2 i.e. fuel injectors distributor..

i was driving one time and i thought i smelt what smelt like to me some wires burning but it went away when i pulled over so idk...

i was thinking of just getting a 92-95 b16 harness and swapping obd1 injectors and distributor in it wich would make it easier for me to work on

oh the ecu is a p05 converted to p28 specs by me and chipped/street tuned by me

 

Check your grounds; and the power wire on your alternator; It seems like your gonna have to bust out a multimeter soon.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pgpbubble &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Check your grounds; and the power wire on your alternator; It seems like your gonna have to bust out a multimeter soon.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ya thats what im thinking.. ive checked all the wires already ever ground is there all the clips are tight everythings good so idk

 

Since your saying you cannot check the codes; replace it with a known good ecu and see if the problem continues.

 

this is a known good ecu.. ive had it for 2 years.. its not all the sudden gonna take a **** on me.. its thrown legit codes like a map sensor before and it has shown me what code it was..

but how does a check engine light come on and shut off at the same time while your driving is what im trying to figure out..

usually when a check engine light comes on it stays on not shut off in 10 seconds

 

Your having electrical problems; how do you know you didnt short something out somewhere in the harness; over powering the circuit board. A 12v wire could have worn/shorted into a 5v signal wire.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pgpbubble &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your having electrical problems; how do you know you didnt short something out somewhere in the harness; over powering the circuit board. A 12v wire could have worn/shorted into a 5v signal wire.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i have 2 ecu's the one that he gave me and the one that was in my turbo hatch.. the one he gave me he converted it wrong and it was throwing vtp codes so i put mine in it and no codes...

i didnt short anything out i didnt do the harness.. if i would have done a harness it would be all obd1 injectors dizzy and all that not none of this ghetto obd1 clips with obd2 dizzy and injectors.. even tho i know obd1 and obd2 injectors have the same resistance so that doesnt matter i would rather just have obd1 stuff..

so its starting to look like i need to buy a new obd1 b16 dizzy and put my obd1 harness on it..

i also looked at the alternator and its obd1 it has the big circle plug

also.. have you ever heard of the cel coming on and turning off while your driving.. cuz i havent.. and why would the cel come on and voltage drop from 13.7 to 10.3 and the car die?

im not trying to argue.. i know the ecu is good, ive had it for almost 3 years and it still to this day runs my turbo hatch just fine... all i have to do is swap the chips out and im good to go

 

Run another ground wire from the battery to the same spot on the thermostat ground and see if its still continues; I had this problem on a car I worked on not too long ago. There wasnt a strong enough ground signal.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pgpbubble &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Run another ground wire from the battery to the same spot on the thermostat ground and see if its still continues; I had this problem on a car I worked on not too long ago. There wasnt a strong enough ground signal.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks alot for all the help...

tomorrow im replacing the whole harness with a working one.... im going to use the old harness that was in the car.. all im gonna do tho is repin the obd2 dizzy plugs on the obd1 harness and repin the obd2 injector plugs on the obd1 harness and plug it in and hopefully no more problems