Help with compression tests results. Please respond!!!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ej6.sean »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow stop posting on my name
login on your ****
Modified by ej6.sean at 4:07 PM 6/17/2007</TD></TR></TABLE>
please respond on your own screen name corey
we can all do a search and see how you got flammed everytime you posted how to fix the problem back in Nov.
login on your ****
Modified by ej6.sean at 4:07 PM 6/17/2007</TD></TR></TABLE>
please respond on your own screen name corey
we can all do a search and see how you got flammed everytime you posted how to fix the problem back in Nov.
haha dave funny bc im not the only one that drove my car nd said it was slow..
saying i dont know how to do anything you cant even take a head off
I told you the owner prior to me told me he sprayed the car and it was tuned with haltec that i had problems with so i ran a new harness and put in a chipped ecu.
go ahead and look at my name
i think its chump2825 and have 0 flammed out responses
saying i dont know how to do anything you cant even take a head off
I told you the owner prior to me told me he sprayed the car and it was tuned with haltec that i had problems with so i ran a new harness and put in a chipped ecu.
go ahead and look at my name
i think its chump2825 and have 0 flammed out responses
the compression was not done when cold
please dave tell me why if you never ran nitrous like you have told me so many times i had nitrous lines and my piston rings where shot and the compression was terrible and why did i go through plugs so often
like i said i didnt want anything from you all i was doing was venting
please dave tell me why if you never ran nitrous like you have told me so many times i had nitrous lines and my piston rings where shot and the compression was terrible and why did i go through plugs so often
like i said i didnt want anything from you all i was doing was venting
This is ridiculous. Lets just deal with the latest responses.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ej6.sean »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
saying i dont know how to do anything you cant even take a head off
</TD></TR></TABLE>
He never claimed to be able to work on the car. He stated openly in this thread hes not a mechanic, and doesnt claim to be. Why do you keep saying that as if him not being able to remove a cylinder head has anything to do with this?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chump2825 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
please dave tell me why if you never ran nitrous like you have told me so many times i had nitrous lines and my piston rings where shot and the compression was terrible and why did i go through plugs so often</TD></TR></TABLE>
There were nitrous lines on the car because the previous owner before him used nitrous. He has stated this SEVERAL times. The compression is NOT terrible. 190,190,210,210 is healthy.
It is clear you bought a vehicle, beat the crap out of it, and are looking for someone to blame. If you have a right to "vent" on a public forum, then he has a right to "vent" and make you look like a dipshit.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ej6.sean »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
saying i dont know how to do anything you cant even take a head off
</TD></TR></TABLE>
He never claimed to be able to work on the car. He stated openly in this thread hes not a mechanic, and doesnt claim to be. Why do you keep saying that as if him not being able to remove a cylinder head has anything to do with this?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chump2825 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
please dave tell me why if you never ran nitrous like you have told me so many times i had nitrous lines and my piston rings where shot and the compression was terrible and why did i go through plugs so often</TD></TR></TABLE>
There were nitrous lines on the car because the previous owner before him used nitrous. He has stated this SEVERAL times. The compression is NOT terrible. 190,190,210,210 is healthy.
It is clear you bought a vehicle, beat the crap out of it, and are looking for someone to blame. If you have a right to "vent" on a public forum, then he has a right to "vent" and make you look like a dipshit.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ej6.sean »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">haha dave funny bc im not the only one that drove my car nd said it was slow..
saying i dont know how to do anything you cant even take a head off
I told you the owner prior to me told me he sprayed the car and it was tuned with haltec that i had problems with so i ran a new harness and put in a chipped ecu.
go ahead and look at my name
i think its chump2825 and have 0 flammed out responses</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ok, once again, I never claimed i sprayed the car was true.
I gave you proof i in no way claimed that the car was never sprayed from a conversation from 2004 when someone inquired about the motor.
I would no way try to hide that, If i was hiding something don't you think nitrous lines would have been removed!
I said i been messin with cars for 10 years and I wouldn't even dare to take apart and put a head back on without anyones help.
You buy your first modded car and do it yourself. Props to you! maybe you were the cause of the damage. car was running fine before i sold it to you. you looked over it and so did your brother.
your brother claims from a myspace comment car is now running good.
FINALLY.
you keep bringing up the compression test results.
190 190 210 210 are good numbers.
as verified by numerous people on this thread.
DO ME A FAVOR.
do a compression test on all your boys cars and your brothers.
I will buy all there STOCK motors cuz there broke too.
I ll put money it none of them will put a compression test to 260
This is what it comes down to the #1 problem compression tests results are what I am trying to tell you. (READ THREAD TOPIC)
we can argue till were both dead about nitrous. I ll end that no more about that.
COMPRESSION TESTS. Thats what the topic says so lets stay there.
Quoting you" sleeves were cracked because the car was sprayed and now rings are shot also"
car ran fine for 4 + years. with the setup.
Probable cause. CAR IN YOUR POSSESION
bad gas
free reving to your friends
miss shift not sure what rev limit is on chip or if there is one. I def know how to drive. Have won numerous events with that motor.
yes car was raced that was never hidden. was it beaten on. everyone has an opinion yes it was raced but maintained.
fouled plugs. car was running rich not tuned.
then you put lower cc injecotrs and a stock fuel pressure regulator. car could have leaned out.
your compression tests done by yourself in DECEMBER are GOOD!
NO WAY A CRACKED sleeved would result in those numbers.
THAT IS WHAT WE ARE TRYING TO CLEAR UP.
THE MOTOR WAS NOT BLOWN UP WHEN YOU BOUGHT IT.
i searched your archieved posts.
Oil pressure.
how long did you drive with no oil pressure.
I never knew about that. That was back in feb. months after i sold you the car that you and your friends drove and attempted to see how fast it was.
scarred sleeve from no lubrication MAYBE.
lets talk facts here
ask anyone there is no way i could forsee how long a fuel pressure regulator would last for initial problem.
oiling issue.
if you'd like to blame me too.
no way to diagnose when or how that could blow up too. oil pump
maybe when you put new belts on the car.
maybe you ran the motor dry. I def told you to keep an eye on oil every 1500 miles especially if you raced it. I told you running it low would def kill the motor.
Modified by monEmakindave at 1:40 PM 6/18/2007
saying i dont know how to do anything you cant even take a head off
I told you the owner prior to me told me he sprayed the car and it was tuned with haltec that i had problems with so i ran a new harness and put in a chipped ecu.
go ahead and look at my name
i think its chump2825 and have 0 flammed out responses</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ok, once again, I never claimed i sprayed the car was true.
I gave you proof i in no way claimed that the car was never sprayed from a conversation from 2004 when someone inquired about the motor.
I would no way try to hide that, If i was hiding something don't you think nitrous lines would have been removed!
I said i been messin with cars for 10 years and I wouldn't even dare to take apart and put a head back on without anyones help.
You buy your first modded car and do it yourself. Props to you! maybe you were the cause of the damage. car was running fine before i sold it to you. you looked over it and so did your brother.
your brother claims from a myspace comment car is now running good.
FINALLY.
you keep bringing up the compression test results.
190 190 210 210 are good numbers.
as verified by numerous people on this thread.
DO ME A FAVOR.
do a compression test on all your boys cars and your brothers.
I will buy all there STOCK motors cuz there broke too.
I ll put money it none of them will put a compression test to 260
This is what it comes down to the #1 problem compression tests results are what I am trying to tell you. (READ THREAD TOPIC)
we can argue till were both dead about nitrous. I ll end that no more about that.
COMPRESSION TESTS. Thats what the topic says so lets stay there.
Quoting you" sleeves were cracked because the car was sprayed and now rings are shot also"
car ran fine for 4 + years. with the setup.
Probable cause. CAR IN YOUR POSSESION
bad gas
free reving to your friends
miss shift not sure what rev limit is on chip or if there is one. I def know how to drive. Have won numerous events with that motor.
yes car was raced that was never hidden. was it beaten on. everyone has an opinion yes it was raced but maintained.
fouled plugs. car was running rich not tuned.
then you put lower cc injecotrs and a stock fuel pressure regulator. car could have leaned out.
your compression tests done by yourself in DECEMBER are GOOD!
NO WAY A CRACKED sleeved would result in those numbers.
THAT IS WHAT WE ARE TRYING TO CLEAR UP.
THE MOTOR WAS NOT BLOWN UP WHEN YOU BOUGHT IT.
i searched your archieved posts.
Oil pressure.
how long did you drive with no oil pressure.
I never knew about that. That was back in feb. months after i sold you the car that you and your friends drove and attempted to see how fast it was.
scarred sleeve from no lubrication MAYBE.
lets talk facts here
ask anyone there is no way i could forsee how long a fuel pressure regulator would last for initial problem.
oiling issue.
if you'd like to blame me too.
no way to diagnose when or how that could blow up too. oil pump
maybe when you put new belts on the car.
maybe you ran the motor dry. I def told you to keep an eye on oil every 1500 miles especially if you raced it. I told you running it low would def kill the motor.
Modified by monEmakindave at 1:40 PM 6/18/2007
i checked the oil every week...i beat the car once in a bloom moon i hit vtec maybe 3 times a week not beating it if that...the compression test was done actually like 2 months ago by my mec. not me...on the speed lounge fourm where u had the car posted it said you bought the block from a usdm dealer..ok then lets do it i say my compression is 190 190 210 210 what does it come out to be as the sence of 8.1 9.1 pistons what does 190 compression come out to be?
as for the damage in the wall...
can i prove you did it no..do i want to prove u did no..like i said wasnt asking anything from you...
do i think you knew something was wrong with the motor yes i do and yes i understand why you wouldnt want to tell someone if your selling...
any given week i could put on 2,000 miles with no problem nd i think willl lots of miles and i motor that was on it way out made everything worse
can i prove you did it no..do i want to prove u did no..like i said wasnt asking anything from you...
do i think you knew something was wrong with the motor yes i do and yes i understand why you wouldnt want to tell someone if your selling...
any given week i could put on 2,000 miles with no problem nd i think willl lots of miles and i motor that was on it way out made everything worse
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chump2825 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i checked the oil every week...i beat the car once in a bloom moon i hit vtec maybe 3 times a week not beating it if that...the compression test was done actually like 2 months ago by my mec. not me...on the speed lounge fourm where u had the car posted it said you bought the block from a usdm dealer..ok then lets do it i say my compression is 190 190 210 210 what does it come out to be as the sence of 8.1 9.1 pistons what does 190 compression come out to be?</TD></TR></TABLE>
ok google is your friend.
http://autos.yahoo.com/maintai....html
a compression test does not give you the actual compression of the motor. PLEASE READ ABOVE LINK.
Its a test to see if there's something wrong with it. all results were within 10%
so motor was fine.
OK 2000 miles any given week since Nov. Wow what can i say. You def put miles on the car.
Your sayin i knew there was something wrong with it.
Not when i sold it to you.
when you took it apart and didn't know how to put it back together YES.
not knowing torque specs and sequences can do damage to a motor. That is why i never built one.
I know your not askin for anything NEITHER am I. I just want to show you I had no intent on sellin a beat car. I own a company that is represented by ME and the things I sell.
I DON'T SELL BEAT PRODUCTS OR CARS
THIS THREAD WAS CREATED TO SHOW YOU HOW MUCH YOU DON'T KNOW.
compression tests show its a good motor.
I would def be weary of the person building your motor now if he thinks that a motor with those results were no good.
ok google is your friend.
http://autos.yahoo.com/maintai....html
a compression test does not give you the actual compression of the motor. PLEASE READ ABOVE LINK.
Its a test to see if there's something wrong with it. all results were within 10%
so motor was fine.
OK 2000 miles any given week since Nov. Wow what can i say. You def put miles on the car.
Your sayin i knew there was something wrong with it.
Not when i sold it to you.
when you took it apart and didn't know how to put it back together YES.
not knowing torque specs and sequences can do damage to a motor. That is why i never built one.
I know your not askin for anything NEITHER am I. I just want to show you I had no intent on sellin a beat car. I own a company that is represented by ME and the things I sell.
I DON'T SELL BEAT PRODUCTS OR CARS
THIS THREAD WAS CREATED TO SHOW YOU HOW MUCH YOU DON'T KNOW.
compression tests show its a good motor.
I would def be weary of the person building your motor now if he thinks that a motor with those results were no good.
ok
do you see my point.
results show motor was fine.
i have backed myself time and time again.
you still think its suppose to be 260
usdm motors do not have a compression ratio of 11.0:1
I am not here to fight with you just to prove a point the motor was healthy in Dec
or when your mechanic checked it.
damage was done recently.
do you see my point.
results show motor was fine.
i have backed myself time and time again.
you still think its suppose to be 260
usdm motors do not have a compression ratio of 11.0:1
I am not here to fight with you just to prove a point the motor was healthy in Dec
or when your mechanic checked it.
damage was done recently.
the compression i still says it bad
as for those numbers i gave you those werent from december those where from april
when i did i cant rember what the numbers where they where close to each other
they i way i see it if you have a 190 compression when u figure out the compression ratio as in pistons it comes out to i think 8.1 or 9.1 thats the way im cing it
as for those numbers i gave you those werent from december those where from april
when i did i cant rember what the numbers where they where close to each other
they i way i see it if you have a 190 compression when u figure out the compression ratio as in pistons it comes out to i think 8.1 or 9.1 thats the way im cing it
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chump2825 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">they i way i see it if you have a 190 compression when u figure out the compression ratio as in pistons it comes out to i think 8.1 or 9.1 thats the way im cing it </TD></TR></TABLE>
YOU CANNOT FIGURE COMPRESSION RATIO USING COMPRESSION TEST NUMBERS!!!! get that through your thick head.
you'd have to cc the chambers and know the piston cc to figure compression ratio. as long as the numbers are within 10-20psi of each other the numbers are fine!
YOU CANNOT FIGURE COMPRESSION RATIO USING COMPRESSION TEST NUMBERS!!!! get that through your thick head.
you'd have to cc the chambers and know the piston cc to figure compression ratio. as long as the numbers are within 10-20psi of each other the numbers are fine!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chump2825 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the compression i still says it bad
as for those numbers i gave you those werent from december those where from april
when i did i cant rember what the numbers where they where close to each other
they i way i see it if you have a 190 compression when u figure out the compression ratio as in pistons it comes out to i think 8.1 or 9.1 thats the way im cing it </TD></TR></TABLE>
ok so compression numbers were done in april..
PROVES A POINT: motor was good till april. COMPRESSION TEST would not show those numbers if motor had a scar in it or cracked sleeve.
from the link above.
since its too hard for you to click here it is
It will tell you if your engine has good compression. An engine is essentially a self-powered air pump, so it needs good compression to run efficiently, cleanly and to start easily.
As a rule, most engines should have 140 to 160 lbs. of cranking compression with no more than 10% difference between any of the cylinders.
Low compression in one cylinder usually indicates a bad exhaust valve. Low compression in two adjacent cylinders typically means you have a bad head gasket. Low compression in all cylinders would tell you the rings and cylinders are worn and the engine needs to be overhauled.
Checking Compression
Compression can be checked two ways: manually with a compression gauge or electronically with an engine analyzer. The manual gauge method is the only one available to most do-it-yourselfers.
To check compression, all the spark plugs are removed. The ignition coil is then disabled or the high tension lead is grounded. The throttle is also held open. The engine is then cranked for a few seconds using a remote starter switch or a helper while a compression gauge is held in a spark plug hole. The maximum compression reading is noted, then the process is repeated for each of the remaining cylinders. The individual cylinder readings are then compared to see if the results are within specs (always refer to a manual for the exact compression specs for your engine because they do vary from the ballpark figures we quoted earlier).
If compression is low in one or more cylinders, you can isolate the problem to the valves or rings by squirting a little 30 weight motor oil into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and repeating the compression test. The oil temporarily seals the rings. If the readings are higher the second time around, it means the rings and/or cylinder is worn. No change in the compression readings tells you the cylinder has a bad valve.
With electronic testing, a computer analyzer "estimates" compression in each of the engine’s cylinders by measuring slight variations in engine cranking speed. The results correlate well with actual gauge readings and can be completed in a matter of minutes without having to remove any spark plugs. What’s more, the analyzer prints out the results of the compression test making it easy to see and compare the actual numbers.
like I stated earlier and many others the numbers are OK!!!!!!!!
GO DO SOME COMPRESSION TESTS ON YOUR FRIENDS CARS. you will not see 260!!!!!!!
how many times do you need to read that. There have been others on here stating the numbers are good.
You keep insisting the numbers are no good.
You keep trying to figure out the formula for compression with those numbers.
THAT IS NOT HOW ITS DONE!
COMPRESSION TESTS ARE DONE TO TEST IF THE MOTOR HAS DAMAGE TO IT!!!!NOT WHAT COMPRESSION THE MOTOR IS!!!!!
as for those numbers i gave you those werent from december those where from april
when i did i cant rember what the numbers where they where close to each other
they i way i see it if you have a 190 compression when u figure out the compression ratio as in pistons it comes out to i think 8.1 or 9.1 thats the way im cing it </TD></TR></TABLE>
ok so compression numbers were done in april..
PROVES A POINT: motor was good till april. COMPRESSION TEST would not show those numbers if motor had a scar in it or cracked sleeve.
from the link above.
since its too hard for you to click here it is
It will tell you if your engine has good compression. An engine is essentially a self-powered air pump, so it needs good compression to run efficiently, cleanly and to start easily.
As a rule, most engines should have 140 to 160 lbs. of cranking compression with no more than 10% difference between any of the cylinders.
Low compression in one cylinder usually indicates a bad exhaust valve. Low compression in two adjacent cylinders typically means you have a bad head gasket. Low compression in all cylinders would tell you the rings and cylinders are worn and the engine needs to be overhauled.
Checking Compression
Compression can be checked two ways: manually with a compression gauge or electronically with an engine analyzer. The manual gauge method is the only one available to most do-it-yourselfers.
To check compression, all the spark plugs are removed. The ignition coil is then disabled or the high tension lead is grounded. The throttle is also held open. The engine is then cranked for a few seconds using a remote starter switch or a helper while a compression gauge is held in a spark plug hole. The maximum compression reading is noted, then the process is repeated for each of the remaining cylinders. The individual cylinder readings are then compared to see if the results are within specs (always refer to a manual for the exact compression specs for your engine because they do vary from the ballpark figures we quoted earlier).
If compression is low in one or more cylinders, you can isolate the problem to the valves or rings by squirting a little 30 weight motor oil into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and repeating the compression test. The oil temporarily seals the rings. If the readings are higher the second time around, it means the rings and/or cylinder is worn. No change in the compression readings tells you the cylinder has a bad valve.
With electronic testing, a computer analyzer "estimates" compression in each of the engine’s cylinders by measuring slight variations in engine cranking speed. The results correlate well with actual gauge readings and can be completed in a matter of minutes without having to remove any spark plugs. What’s more, the analyzer prints out the results of the compression test making it easy to see and compare the actual numbers.
like I stated earlier and many others the numbers are OK!!!!!!!!
GO DO SOME COMPRESSION TESTS ON YOUR FRIENDS CARS. you will not see 260!!!!!!!
how many times do you need to read that. There have been others on here stating the numbers are good.
You keep insisting the numbers are no good.
You keep trying to figure out the formula for compression with those numbers.
THAT IS NOT HOW ITS DONE!
COMPRESSION TESTS ARE DONE TO TEST IF THE MOTOR HAS DAMAGE TO IT!!!!NOT WHAT COMPRESSION THE MOTOR IS!!!!!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chump2825 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
they i way i see it if you have a 190 compression when u figure out the compression ratio as in pistons it comes out to i think 8.1 or 9.1 thats the way im cing it </TD></TR></TABLE>
The way your "cing" it is wrong. Do a compression test on a B18A/B LS motor with similar mileage as your motor. I garuntee you wont see the needle hit 190, and THATS a 9:1 motor.
they i way i see it if you have a 190 compression when u figure out the compression ratio as in pistons it comes out to i think 8.1 or 9.1 thats the way im cing it </TD></TR></TABLE>
The way your "cing" it is wrong. Do a compression test on a B18A/B LS motor with similar mileage as your motor. I garuntee you wont see the needle hit 190, and THATS a 9:1 motor.
Corey,
you have a theory that is misleading this whole thread.
PLEASE ASK YOUR MECHANIC
you do not figure out the engines compression from the results you get from a compression test.
you said you can drive on any given week 2000 miles so since december you have put a signifigant number of miles on the car.
Since DECEMBER:
was the car consuming oil?
were you adding oil every week or so?
was the car smoking excessively?
you have a theory that is misleading this whole thread.
PLEASE ASK YOUR MECHANIC
you do not figure out the engines compression from the results you get from a compression test.
you said you can drive on any given week 2000 miles so since december you have put a signifigant number of miles on the car.
Since DECEMBER:
was the car consuming oil?
were you adding oil every week or so?
was the car smoking excessively?
never smoked unless u hit vtec
had to oil in different amounts depending on the weather how i drive the car probally a couple of quarts a month
yea since i bought i had to add oil
my mec says i couldnt have made that crack
had to oil in different amounts depending on the weather how i drive the car probally a couple of quarts a month
yea since i bought i had to add oil
my mec says i couldnt have made that crack
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chump2825 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
my mec says i couldnt have made that crack</TD></TR></TABLE>
ooh did he have access to live streaming video from an in-car camera 24 hours a day to know that you didnt do it?
my mec says i couldnt have made that crack</TD></TR></TABLE>
ooh did he have access to live streaming video from an in-car camera 24 hours a day to know that you didnt do it?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chump2825 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
my mec says i couldnt have made that crack</TD></TR></TABLE>
does he think a motor with a crack like that would give compression numbers of 190 190 210 210
I highly doubt any motor with a scar or crack like that could produce numbers like that.
not within 10% of each other.
my mec says i couldnt have made that crack</TD></TR></TABLE>
does he think a motor with a crack like that would give compression numbers of 190 190 210 210
I highly doubt any motor with a scar or crack like that could produce numbers like that.
not within 10% of each other.
didnt fully crack through car has been running bad for awhile nd lately it got worse nd worse
before i took it to him he started to die at lights had problems going just started to get worse nd worse
before i took it to him he started to die at lights had problems going just started to get worse nd worse
when we went over your crib in dec we did crank the motor remember.
you claimed a piston had play. Did not it was OK.
the sleeve did not have that scar. We were able to see all the sleeves.
If you did a compression test before your motor was taken apart I bet it would not have given those same exact numbers. That onne cylinder would have been much worse than the rest.
You had an oiling issue in February. How long did the motor run dry.
you claimed a piston had play. Did not it was OK.
the sleeve did not have that scar. We were able to see all the sleeves.
If you did a compression test before your motor was taken apart I bet it would not have given those same exact numbers. That onne cylinder would have been much worse than the rest.
You had an oiling issue in February. How long did the motor run dry.
this is all kinda stupid... if u bought the car most likely you had a test drive.. why would u spend money on a car that runs like **** then? a crack like that WILL always make an a slight lope in the idle at the least and the comp test would have shown it.
if it was true that u went back to stock injectors and the ecu was tuned for the bigger ones... (he made that remark a way back in these thread and u havent come up with anything) so then congratulations u blew yer engine
and lean conditions will make a car VERY slow ooohh trust me
if it was true that u went back to stock injectors and the ecu was tuned for the bigger ones... (he made that remark a way back in these thread and u havent come up with anything) so then congratulations u blew yer engine
and lean conditions will make a car VERY slow ooohh trust me
thanks for the response.
Its been so difficult to get through to him cuz a MECHANIC of his says a statement and thats all he will live by.
there's no way the car ran the way it did for SO LONG with the damage he says was inflicted by ME.
back to the fuel pressure regulator the route of all this. Thats when the car first started to run like crap.
I STATED BEFORE THAT IS AN ITEM NO ONE COULD EVER FORSEE FAILING!
but it did.
His solution: stock injectors and regulator. Opening the motor cuz someone told him he bent a valve. NOT MY DIAGNOSIS. If you buy a car from a dealer anytime you open the motor its no longer warrantied because they don't know how it was put back together.
IF you have this theory of how to calculate compression of a motor from the compression tests results, whose to say your technique of putting the motor back correctly is correct.
He has simply shown how unknowledable he is about what is goin on and takes his mechanic s word and lives by that.
If his mechanic had a pic of a dog on the wall and it said cat underneeth it, He would probably call the next dog he saw a cat because it said so once.
Multiple people who have no BIAS on this forum and are knowledgeable have helped me tell you that a block with this sort of damage could not produce compression tests results of 190 190 210 210.
DAMAGE was done recently. LEAN CONDITIONS, OIL pressure light coming on lack of oil?
Honestly IF this happend back in DECEMBER when you first took the head off and we spotted the damage i would have backed you on the cost of rebuild. Its 6 months later motor has been apart, new parts have been placed on the motor. Lower cc injectors stock regulator new msd.
JUST A THOUGHT: maybe car leaned out or has been leaning out cuz its not been gettin enough fuel. got slower cuz car was hurting from lean conditions.
DURING TEST DRIVE car pulled hard and you loved it.
I know you are not askin for anything but your SLANDER sayin Dave D. sold me beat car is untrue.
Modified by monEmakindave at 1:07 PM 6/20/2007
Its been so difficult to get through to him cuz a MECHANIC of his says a statement and thats all he will live by.
there's no way the car ran the way it did for SO LONG with the damage he says was inflicted by ME.
back to the fuel pressure regulator the route of all this. Thats when the car first started to run like crap.
I STATED BEFORE THAT IS AN ITEM NO ONE COULD EVER FORSEE FAILING!
but it did.
His solution: stock injectors and regulator. Opening the motor cuz someone told him he bent a valve. NOT MY DIAGNOSIS. If you buy a car from a dealer anytime you open the motor its no longer warrantied because they don't know how it was put back together.
IF you have this theory of how to calculate compression of a motor from the compression tests results, whose to say your technique of putting the motor back correctly is correct.
He has simply shown how unknowledable he is about what is goin on and takes his mechanic s word and lives by that.
If his mechanic had a pic of a dog on the wall and it said cat underneeth it, He would probably call the next dog he saw a cat because it said so once.
Multiple people who have no BIAS on this forum and are knowledgeable have helped me tell you that a block with this sort of damage could not produce compression tests results of 190 190 210 210.
DAMAGE was done recently. LEAN CONDITIONS, OIL pressure light coming on lack of oil?
Honestly IF this happend back in DECEMBER when you first took the head off and we spotted the damage i would have backed you on the cost of rebuild. Its 6 months later motor has been apart, new parts have been placed on the motor. Lower cc injectors stock regulator new msd.
JUST A THOUGHT: maybe car leaned out or has been leaning out cuz its not been gettin enough fuel. got slower cuz car was hurting from lean conditions.
DURING TEST DRIVE car pulled hard and you loved it.
I know you are not askin for anything but your SLANDER sayin Dave D. sold me beat car is untrue.
Modified by monEmakindave at 1:07 PM 6/20/2007
oil light never came on..yea i put stock injectors but the fuel pressure was turned up..when i got the car it couldnt idle it wuld jump back nd forth nd once in awhile it could..gave it to him nd it idled perfect...the car still ran rich as hell so it wasnt running lean


