i just got dont taking off the head on my car due to some cylinder head gasket probs ...the car was running and thankfully i caught it very early ..the temp never got hot ..needle only moved to 1/3 on the itr cluster usually runs at 1/4
i noticed it spiking more and more ....so this is what i found

cometic head gasket blown between #1 and #2 and the small coolant passage right at the 10 o clock position on the sleeves was starting to seep...no coolant got into the oil

as i was taking the head off..one of the head studs decided to come out with the nut and washer ...same with the one below it ..the studs im reffering to are closest to the timing belt

should i consider this a rare situation
and resurface the head replace the gasket and the head studs??

 

bump

 

I personally would not worry about the studs coming out with the nut. I would resurface the head make sure the block is clean and throw on a new gakset. You might check with the manufacturer of the head studs, many are re-usable. Make sure to re-tourque the studs after the first heat cycle and I check again after a weeks or so.

 

yeah i was thinkin the same

just had to mention everything 100%

it must have just been a freak thing

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B20---Vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

should i consider this a rare situation
and resurface the head replace the gasket and the head studs??</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would check the head surface with a straight edge and only resurface it if needed. I would also straight edge the block surface.

 

yes i did that to the block and its good ..straight as an ---------&gt;
imma take the head to get resurfaced just enough to make it the same
just puzzles me how cometic tells me there MLS gaskets are the best ...and i have a prob like this....wierd

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B20---Vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
imma take the head to get resurfaced just enough to make it the same
just puzzles me how cometic tells me there MLS gaskets are the best ...and i have a prob like this....wierd</TD></TR></TABLE>
The head surface doesn't have to be very far out for them to leak.

 

Thank you for the information i appreciate it

 

The nut shouldnt get stuck on the stud. i would be a little concerned about that.
Unless you drained the motor completely of water before removing the head
i dont see how you could see water seeping around the gasket since once
the head is loosened, water and oil go everywhere. What were the signs you
were seeing to come up with the blown headgasket and water leakage?

 

the temperature was spiking slightly ...the cooling system would develop airpockets ....the car never got hot
the car would go to 1/3 on the temp guage i would check the coolant level i was low ...try to restart the car ...i would get some white smoke briefly then it would go aaway .

and yes i did drain the oil and coolant before i took the head off ...the oil and the coolant never mixed

 

motor never got hot....interesting one.

 

yes i know isnt it

im thinkin if anything the head gasket is defective

 

If the studs came out with the nut/washer then your torque readings for those studs were most likely wrong when installed. Your torque measurement would have been from the nut bottoming out on the stud, not the actual clamping force for the head/block. ARP says hand tight, but be sure to check the stud holes for oil/water/dirt. You can use compressed air and a tap to chase and clean the threads. If there is any crap in there, hand tight won't be fully seated like clean threads would. It would also explain your leak between 1&2.

 

cool ..i just brought the head gasket and my head to my engine builder he said the same

thanks for the help
now i can put it back together

 

bump ba bump