Ive got my harness from my f22 hooked up to the h22a in my accord and im not getting any fire or spark. ive tried both the pt3 ecu and the p13 ecu to see if i could get it started with no success. i was getting both fuel and spark when i hooked up the harness the first time and all my lights were working but after re routing the harness in the engine bay ive now got no fuel, spark, or any lights what so ever. all my grounds are good and the fuses are good as well. i did unplug one ecu while the battery was hooked up to swap it for another so would this cause the car to not start and not let the lights work by sending some type of false signal or something? or could i have blown a main relay? it also has a viper alarm that was previously installed before i owned it. could that have been put in a theft mode when i unplugged the ecu, not allowing the car to do anything but turn over? im totally lost at this point and i desperately need some help to get this thing started!!!! i was told if i unhooked the ecu while the battery was hooked up that would give me the problem im having. is this true and is there someway i can fix it? PLEASE PLEASE I NEED SOME HELP!!!

 

bump. anyone got any ideas?

 

PMed

 

bump, thanks for that man

 

bump!! anyone??

 

If your not getting any power, "not start and not let the lights work" then you have a connection problem, either ground or power.

Do you have a multimeter or 12V test light? 94

 

i got a test light yeah. i checked all my grounds everything is hooked up and loookin like it should

 

Connect test light ground to a chassis ground point, [not batt. neg.(-) post], test for voltage down the line, start at batt. pos.(+) post, then at batt. input to engine bay fuse box, then at batt. input to starter motor, then to load side of main fuse, [opposite of batt. input side] in engine bay fuse box, then atmain power input to under dash fuse box and ign. switch.

If the lights will not work you are not getting power from the batt. to the fuse boxes, you need to know where that "connection" problem is, if the grounds are good it must be on the power, [12V+] side.
You can confirm chassis ground by grounding test light to a stud on the shock tower and touching probe to the batt. pos.(+) post.


Questions, so I understand...

Everything worked until you did the, "re routing", is that correct?

When you say "what so ever", ["ive now got no fuel, spark, or any lights what so ever"] do you mean no power at all, no dome light, no head lights, no dash lights, like if the batt. was disconnected? 94

 

yes everything did work until i re routed it and also yes i have absolutely nothing, no power, just like the batt was unhooked but it will still spin over

 

bump!

 

No power for headlights, dome light, dash lights and so on but engine will still turn over, ["will still spin over"] just not start, is that correct?

If so, you will need to test for power at the ign. switch harness...

The white lead should have 12V+ at all times.
The black/white lead should have 12V+ when ign, switch is in start.
The yellow lead should have 12V+ when switch is in acc. and run.
The black/yellow lead should have 12V+ when switch is in run and start.

If all that is good, check for power, [12V+] on the black/yellow lead going to the distributor assembly, [when ign. switch is in the run position]. 94

 

i did that and got nothing at any of the wires. i decided to remove the alarm system installed by the previous owner and i also replaced the main relay over the weekend and im still having the same result. the dude also had a push button start rigged up to work as long as the key was on and i removed that as well and tried to use the key to start it with no success. no lights, fuel, spark, nada! im trying a new ignition switch today after work but would that cause all of the prolems im having? thanks for any help!!!

 

bump

 

bump.

 

check your fuse box in the engine bay, sounds like you blew out the main fuse it is a black 80 amp fuse