Any one ever try this combo? What are the performance gains or losses with this combo? I am planning to run a direct port NOS set up as well.
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i dont understand why people do this
its the lowest displacment b series block and the worst flowing b series head.

 

the blocks are strong and cheap.

 

A friend of mine does a 13.6 1/4 mile with that setup in his 92 hatch.

 

It really should be called the left over combo. Its the things that a lot of people have left over after they finish their own swap. It works though, it bumps your compression up a bit. I know a guy that ran 14.4 in a 92 CX on slicks (skunk2 manifold, ecu), this is at 3100 ft too. But anyways, it is a cheaper to do this, but you still have no torque. Squeezing would be ok on it, just get it tuned.

 

I'd say you'd be better off with a strait B16.

And better yet with a strait DOHC VTEC B18.

I would imagine you could find a B18A/B block similarly priced with a B16 block. The Ls/VTEC is a better choice.

 

egad...

think this one through. you have a 77.4 stroke B16 block making 9.6:1 on stock pistons. say you throw in CTRs and you can make that a 10.6:1 block. put on the GSR head which adds .4cr to your setup, you have an 11:1 B16 that can make great power on an IDEAL rod stroke ratio. say you use the GSR intake manifold...
oh, no that's SUCKY its not like a TYPE, R yo!? to the contrary.
you will have a engine with great midrange response. I would look into using the GSR P72 computer with that setup, or go OBD1 and tune with hondata, 270cc prelude injectors. I would say you would baseline at 175/130 at the wheels with stock manifolding and ecu tuning on stock cams. If the VVIS manifold is so sucky why is it Prelude entusiasts seem to want the 93-96 VTEC motor over the H22A?
MIDRANGE TQ. That is why you carry more momentum that way. All you need then are the gears and creative tuning to get some extra top end power also.

If you dropped in the thinner gasket, mill the head a skoche you can see 11.5:1 easily, install Skunk2 stage 1 cams and put in a 65mm TB, bore out the secondaries, leaving the butterflies and install a RPM solenoid for the IAB valve if you dont have a GSR computer available. portmatch the TB to the manifold. install ITR flywheel and machine and balance to 12.5 lbs, ITR PP, bearing and stage 3 clutchmasters kevlar disk. if you wanted to get stupid fast, you could drop the head off with a reputable company and have it maximized for 12mm cams... you would have alot of fun with that motor. highly streetable and gobs of midrange TQ where the B16 usually has NONE. If you mated this motor to a Si tranny... look out... best bet would be the R for the differential... set that puppy to 9500rpm and dont look back

 

Damn, you sound like you've done this before.....Good ****!

 

well, I have in a sense. I have a GSR with an GSR head/ITR block
and I am progressing in that line of thought. I only have
3200 on my motor and the thing is very fun... feels like a
larger displacement motor, very torque-y and fast on GSR cams!
remember flow rates may be represented by numbers, but numbers
dont always mean acceleration... the GSR head flows good numbers
and people make good performance gains with them... its also a hard
peice to find at a good price. I paid $3700 for a GSR head with 36K a
nd a new ITR block from the same guy, it costed me $500 to have a
mechanic pull, build my motor and install the new one and work on
refreshing the C1 block on spec over time to have on the side
you say, "mike you a'pay too mach!" I say this: I went from bearing
failure to engine in car running in 9 days. I had to sell some photo
equipment, start a new job, work all week and get that whole thing
running over a weekend thank God for DJchriscamilli@aol.com


[Modified by MikeSarr_GSR, 11:14 AM 9/17/2002]

 

damn. sleeve and bore that sucker to 85mm on the b16a crank with something like a forged endyn/wiseco piston, eagle rods... target 11.5-12:1 on 77mm stroke, send the head off to a reputable shop and install Skunk2 stage 1 cams, ITR LMAs, ti nitride coated ti retainers, Importbuilder's valvesprings setup, ARP head studs and rod fasteners, 270cc injectors, OBD1 computer with stage 2 or 3 hondata.

you should be able to rev clear to the sky when this sucker's bottom end is toleranced properly as well as flanked on the dyno. if you want an extra added bonus, dyno with the GSR intake manifold and a skunk2 and the same TB. Then have the GSR one opened up with the butterfly plate left in. you will have a SC like TQ curve; bell shaped and FAT. that tranny will see alot of acceleration and the LSD should keep the thing planted nicely. dont get a wild clutch, use a stock ITR pressure plate, flywheel, bearing and a stage 3 kevlar faced disk. you will love it.

I would say a setup like this would yeild about 220-250 to the wheels and about 150-170tq and hit the 9k mark easily with little or no upper RPM losses

that would be my idea and direction I would like to go if this was my car.

 

Okay, if this is a silly question, excuse my lack of knowledge on this subject.
If a GS-R head could produce good power gains on my B16a2, would a Type R head be even better?

 

Can you provide me with proof that the GSR head is the worst flowing B series head?

 

B18C5 and B16A have the same head casting so they flow very similar and different from the B18C1 head. though the ITR head has some work done to it at the factory that the SI doesn't. and as was mentioned the GSR head is a bit higher comp.

the B16A is 10.2 C/R stock so the GSR head may raise it to 10.6 without pistons, then it'd be the same comp. as the US ITR.

B16A block with B18C1 head can work fine if the combonation is right. i'm currently using my stock GSR int. man. which i P&P along with the TB and head. i have the secondary butterflies open all the time, it works great using stock GSR cams and ECU.

later

 

So, would it be worth it to replace the B16a2 head with the ITR head, or would the gains be negligible?

 

B18C1 compared to the B16a/C5 head shows clearly that they both flow almost exactly the same. from .350" to .450" (9.625mm to 12.375mm) at the valve
they flow exactly the same. the C1 head makes more compression based on
the flatter dome area, so you will make more power there also. about .3 cr based on the math, add a thinner HG and a slight mill and you can see over 1 point of CR
added w/o doing pistons. personally, I would rather make CR with the pistons also.
I have an ITR block and GSR head and its very strong.

but wait, dont take my word for it!

http://www.alaniztechnologies.com/