gsr crank in LS block?
You can't destroke for lower compression. The compression would be the same if you used LS pistons on the gsr rods/crank setup. The only thing you are doing is "destroking".
Phil
Phil
and its not all that bad of an idea, i know that you can boost atleast 16 psi with good tuning on that setup, if you are running the gs-r crank and ls pistons on an ls head.
no, 16psi will blow up rather quickly. stock sleeves can't take it.
BTW, there is no point in destroking the LS. the rod:stroke ratio is not very far off, so unless you plan on revving very high, like 9000rpm, it is unnecessary. what you do need, however, it to pick a block girdle from a GSR or from the aftermarket and install it CORRECTLY. it's a LOT more in depth than you think, and it quite necessary for the longer-stroke B-series engines to rev to 8000rpm and stay Honda reliable. the B16 does not need this so much, but B18 LSs and GSRs and Type-Rs need it.
summary: keep the LS internals, get a main cap girdle, and oh, BTW, Endyne makes a nice cheap little kit that is supposed to keep the cylinder liners/sleeves from rocking at high rpm.
even simpler summary: invest in your future (reliability)
BTW, there is no point in destroking the LS. the rod:stroke ratio is not very far off, so unless you plan on revving very high, like 9000rpm, it is unnecessary. what you do need, however, it to pick a block girdle from a GSR or from the aftermarket and install it CORRECTLY. it's a LOT more in depth than you think, and it quite necessary for the longer-stroke B-series engines to rev to 8000rpm and stay Honda reliable. the B16 does not need this so much, but B18 LSs and GSRs and Type-Rs need it.
summary: keep the LS internals, get a main cap girdle, and oh, BTW, Endyne makes a nice cheap little kit that is supposed to keep the cylinder liners/sleeves from rocking at high rpm.
even simpler summary: invest in your future (reliability)
Thanks for the info! But what if I do want to rev high( i have an extra gsr crank) Should I resleeve the block and bore it to 84mm and just keep the LS (but aftermarket) internals? My turbo is t3/t4e stage 3 57trim with 63 a/r housing. It's a big snail- and I plan on running this car on weekends only.
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if you want an 84mm bore, sleeve it. if you're okay with 81.5mm, don't. if you're going over about 14psi, sleeve it and keep 81.5mm for maximum strength, or go as high as 84mm. just use LS internals and get a main cap girdle and aftermarket rods (with ARP bolts. Crower rods come with ARPs in the box).
as for the girdle, you need the following,
6 girdle bolts from honda, a girdle from a reputable place, the gs-r oil pan, gs-r oil pickup, gs-r windage tray. this will cost you close to 300 without the girdle, the sleeving will cost you about 2000 shipped both ways. Bore it on out if you want, I have seen 84mm's hold 25lbs of boost. Thats alot of boost, good enough for atleast 350 horse power on 9.5:1 cr. Get nice pistons and rods, keep the ls crank. Get port matching done for your head and a valve job, pref 3-angle, 5 is overboard i think. There is alot of work that goes into a bomb *** turbo motor which is what you will build with sleeves. There has been several people from around here push 16 psi easily on their stock ls with arp head studs. Its your choice.
6 girdle bolts from honda, a girdle from a reputable place, the gs-r oil pan, gs-r oil pickup, gs-r windage tray. this will cost you close to 300 without the girdle, the sleeving will cost you about 2000 shipped both ways. Bore it on out if you want, I have seen 84mm's hold 25lbs of boost. Thats alot of boost, good enough for atleast 350 horse power on 9.5:1 cr. Get nice pistons and rods, keep the ls crank. Get port matching done for your head and a valve job, pref 3-angle, 5 is overboard i think. There is alot of work that goes into a bomb *** turbo motor which is what you will build with sleeves. There has been several people from around here push 16 psi easily on their stock ls with arp head studs. Its your choice.
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