The lower header section flange where it bolts to my hollow cat pipe has the top central bolt stuck solid (..and ever so slightly! rounded ).


Any suggestions how any of you guys would deal with this bolt?

 

cut it
its rusted solid

 

Its not rusted solid; the cars only lived through 30k odd miles. But its solid probly because of the heat.
The only rust on my car is fine dusty surface rust on the exhaust system;

I'm tempted to get the oxycetaline welding torch on it for a couple of second or two then try moving it; What do you think, and ho would you cut it off then?

 

Grind the little bastard off.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skunked &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Grind the little bastard off.</TD></TR></TABLE>

No can do; not enough room to get a grinding disk at the right angle without destroying the stud

 

Comeon theres gotta be som more ideas

 

Grind it off. You are most likely not gonna get it off by now if it hasn't come yet. The stud pushes out and can be replaced with a bolt and nut or just buy a new stud.

 

Dremel tool....my girlfriend just got one with the flex rod, and you can get to anything with that one. Cut that sucker off

 

do honda sell these studs?

 

..or maybe dremel style 'cutting' drll bit! maybe ican do it without damaging the stud

 

You are most likely going to mess up the thread anyway. Just grind the bastard off, drill out the stud and use a nut and bolt when putting it back together.

 

If you heat up the nut until it is a dull red, you should be able to get it off pretty easily without damaging the stud. The studs are replaceable if you do happen to damage it, they are about $7 each from Honda and just pound out with a good whack with a hammer.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skunked &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You are most likely going to mess up the thread anyway. Just grind the bastard off, drill out the stud and use a nut and bolt when putting it back together.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Probly but I can try heating it wth the welding torch first!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MightyMouseTech &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you heat up the nut until it is a dull red, you should be able to get it off pretty easily without damaging the stud. The studs are replaceable if you do happen to damage it, they are about $7 each from Honda and just pound out with a good whack with a hammer.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats what i was thinking, but how are the studssecured? do they have a groove along them? and which way do you nock them out?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NAPA182 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Use a saws-all and cut it off </TD></TR></TABLE>

Whats that? a drill bit?

 

A saws-all is a reciprocating saw blade that goes back and forth really quick. It si good for cutting through practically anything as long as you have the right blade installed. No one should be without one!

 

I doubt it would get between the cat pipe and the chassis though, how far does the blade go forward and back? if its more than about 2cm then it wont work safely

 

im sorry, but if you cant figure this one out yourself you should not be working on a car IMO. what everyone has just said here will work, is very basic mechanic-speak, and is not hard to do, yet you seem like you are clueless.

sorry for the rant, but ppl have pissed me off today, and i gotta vent somewhere

my$.02

 

If you actually read my posts You would see that I am not clueless as you are suggesting; Before i posted I had already considered several options e.g.

I already new it would be hard to cut it off in the location it is in without a specialised compact tool like a Dremel


Then i suggested this myself...


And the below is an american prduct name that is not welll known in the UK

I was unaware of this product so asked what it was; obviously its uses are depicted by its name but i was unaware of the tool itself's design, presuming it to be like a Dimond-tip small cutting-disk-drill-bit

I had already dismissed a similar steel-saw bladed manual tool that I have at my disposal knowing the movement is limited in the intended workspace


These forums are for people to help each other, I asked for advice to which some of the valuble members of this forum assisted, except for you who couldnt even read what was being said you ******* Dumbass! ; Your post was of no use to anyone except yourself ! ..tryin to put yourself on a soap box eh! Well Dumbass; I'm here to kick you back down; I dont give a **** if you need to vent do it in GDD thats what its there for you ******* dumbass!, i aint surprised ppl have pissed you off when you go round posting stupid **** that doesnt 'tick with whats gone down on da thread!!

Do dumb **** like you did here and you people will flock by the dozens to **** you off. I guarentee!

So... In Summary, <u>most won't work; Next time read the posts, but for now you know where you can shove your $0.02 cents!</u>

Dumbass!

 

Either a saw zaw or a grinder will work. Go cut the bastard off, it's a very simple common practice. Goodluck.

 

I'm going to digout a grinding-stone drill bit and try not to damage the stud

 

a saw vaw is a reciprocating saw
it is like a bigger version of a jig saw
junk yards are famous for using them

btw just cut the darn thing off and replace it with a bolt or go to an auto parts store and purchase a new stud for a couple bux

 

Honestly, just take 5 extra minutes, drop the exhaust piping down off the car and grind the little bastard off.

If you toy w/ it, you will just end up w/ a completely rounded-off nut that has to be cut off anyways, or mangled stud.

Can you not get an impact wrench onto it?

 

21 replys and no one suggested the proper and EASIEST method? I wonder sometimes... anyways here is what you want:

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr...e=Yes

Craftsman Bolt-Out™ Damaged Bolt/Nut Remover Set

5 pc. set fits many popular sizes (metric/SAE) bolt heads and nuts. Spiral flute design grabs and removes rusted, painted over and rounded off nuts/bolts (fit may vary due to corrosion/damage/paint).



Sears item #00952160000
Mfr. model #52160


If you're serious about working on your car then you'll need these little beauties to get you out of jams (I have a thing for rounding timing belt tensioner bolts ). Some of the most helpful tools I own and the set cost me $20 .

 

by the heading i thought it was personel problem

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jde_07 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">by the heading i thought it was personel problem</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol the Title does attract attention... what were you thinking..? "hmm this guys got one of his ***** stuck sowhere but somhow made it to the computer to ask about it in the techl section" ... Fortunatly not


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudeyKrus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Honestly, just take 5 extra minutes, drop the exhaust piping down off the car and grind the little bastard off.

If you toy w/ it, you will just end up w/ a completely rounded-off nut that has to be cut off anyways, or mangled stud.

Can you not get an impact wrench onto it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nope, barley got the 14mm socket in there with a UJ before the socket.

but I I'm going to get hold of a similar tool set like what RedlinedVTEC suggested.
Thats wa I ad in mind in the first place but I havent seen that typeof thing available in the uk. Nearest thing ive seen was universal lock-nut removers for the auto trade; So thought there'd be somwhere that sells a similar product!

That site only sells to the USA !

 

Try harbgor freight's website aswell, they might ship internationally.