well i finally got my rods done. i had my arp rod bolts installed. i had to go to 2 different shops to get it all done though cause the shop that installed them didnt have a mandrel small enough to resize them. so i had to take them to a different shop like an hour away to get resized. and the shop stretched them to .0075-.0079" as per ARP's specs when they resized them.

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its nice and all, but i think there may be a slight problem. the end caps are an absolute BITCH to get off. i seriously have to beat the end caps off. i think this might be a problem when it comes time to build the motor. specifically when plasiguaging. how am i supposed to get them off to check the plasiguage when its installed on the crank? anyone ever run into this?

 

The removal difficulty you are having is typical. You just have to work them off. Who installed the bolts into the rods? It looks like they were beat in instead of pressed.

 

yep, it's normal for the caps to be pretty snug, the clearnaces are very tight.
i think the best thing to do when measuring clearance would be to temporarily remove the dowel pins, this should make it easier to get the caps of, and prevent any extra smashing of the plastigauge.

 

They are stock rods and don't have any dowel pins.With the pistons mounted you can't get a straight shot with a press.It's a bitch to get the caps off with ARP bolts.This is normal.
Glenn

 

ok its normal but how am i supposed to seperate the end cap from the crank when plastiguaging? no amount of pulling will seperate it. once i get it past the thick part of the rod bolt (which acts as a dowel pin) i can work it off by hand. but the problem is getting it initilly seperated.

looking for more help please

 

Welcome to the wonderful world of "Why I hate plastiguage."

You would be better served to simply use a set of micrometers to check the tolerances. This is truly the only way to blueprint as well.

Ask around, I am sure you can find someone that has a decent set. They are pretty easy to use.

If not, you can always assemble the rods and take them and the crank to a machine shop and ask them to measure everything for you.

I got my set by keeping an eye on the local pawn shops. People pawn pretty good things for crack...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cuda70 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Welcome to the wonderful world of "Why I hate plastiguage."

You would be better served to simply use a set of micrometers to check the tolerances. This is truly the only way to blueprint as well.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Plastiguage is a great tool, but nothing beats actual measurements. If youve never used a mic before, dont be scared its not hard to learn.

 

thanks for th tip but i dont know anyone with micrometers.

bump for tips on seperating the end cap while installed. would it work to tap the rod bolts themselves with a rupper mallet or something to push the upper half up away from the crank, raather then pulling on the end cap?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSRCRXsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks for th tip but i dont know anyone with micrometers.

bump for tips on seperating the end cap while installed. would it work to tap the rod bolts themselves with a rupper mallet or something to push the upper half up away from the crank, raather then pulling on the end cap?</TD></TR></TABLE>

rubber mallet is what i used

 

Mine were the same with my Itr rods before I took them to get resized, the machinest told me that was a sign that they needed to be resized, Im still waiting to get them back. Why dont you plastigauge the opposite side instead of the cap side and just push it down some how.

 

please explain, im having a hard time figuring out exactly what you are saying.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why dont you plastigauge the opposite side instead of the cap side and just push it down some how.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What he is saying is, use the plastiguage on the rod side not the cap side. Torque everything down, then remove the cap by driving the rod off the crank using a block of wood or something similar on the rod bolts. But you have to be careful not to turn the crank or you will get bogus reads. Also be careful not to nick the crank with the rod bolts.

Oh, by the way... when you finally go to assemble the block, invest in some 3/8 inch fuel line. Put the fuel line over the rod bolts when you start to put the pistons back in the block. That way you wont accidently nick the crank. I do this with every build because I learned the lesson the hard way when I was 16 or so. I nicked the stroker crank of my '69 Plymouth Road Runner and took out a DEEP chunk in it. 25 years later... I always use fuel line to protect my crank on reassembly.

 

couldnt i still use the plastiguage on the end cap side and remove it in the same manner? id imagine it would be a pain in the *** to plastiguage the rod end.

 

Bump for me having the same problem. Seems like I can only get a few mm's off and it gets stuck...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">couldnt i still use the plastiguage on the end cap side and remove it in the same manner? id imagine it would be a pain in the *** to plastiguage the rod end.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I dont think so for the simple fact that when you start tapping on the rod bolts, you will also be squashing the plastiguage until they break free of the cap. At least if you do it on the rod side your tapping will drive it away from the crank...

 

hmm, i guess the first one i do ill put a plastiguage on both top and bottom to see if the end cap one gets messed up readings from removal.

 

If you do both sides it might give you an innaccurate reading.