1992 cx hatch
k20a2
hybrid harness...

Sometimes the fuel pump simply does not prime. The problem only happens once the car is hot. It will prime every time when its bone cold. Also, once the car is started, no problems at all. Wont ever shut off.

But often, after i turn the car off, and leave it off for more than a few seconds the pump wont prime and the car wont start. Im hoping its a simple main relax problem.. that would be great.. but could it be something more serious??? How do i know if its in fact the realy, and if it if does anyone know the part number, and about hom much a new one costs???

thanks for the help!!!

 

anyone??

 

Listen for the fuel pump hum when the ignition is first turned to "run". The sound should last as long as the check engine light is lit, and then stop when the light goes out. If not, probably the main relay has cracked solder joints.

No need to buy a new one. Just pull it out, remove the cover, and reheat the solder blobs on the circuit board with a pencil type soldering iron.

 

COOL, if there is something wrong with the soder joins, is it something you can see with the naked eye or no???

 

It depends on how good your eyesight is. The typical failure is hairline fractures in the solder joints. Sometimes they are obvious, sometimes you need a magnifying glass. Just reheat the joints until the solder becomes liquid and remove the soldering iron tip from the joint and allow the joint to cool.

 

sweet.. im all over that **** .. ill update next week .

 

so, 99% of the time me and a sodering gun to not get along. This time was no exception. I did a poor *** job.. i hope i didnt ruin it. Theres a little burn mark that looks like it connects 2 terminals.... is this bad??? you can probaly see it in the pictures... i have no idea how these things work .....

int he case that my fuel pump does not work at all now, any clue as to a part number for a new relay???

heres some pics..

 

number is on the relay.. haha ... ok , so $50 if i messed it up ... lol

 

It's not pretty, but maybe not hopeless. Looking at pic #1, there is a suspicious looking trail between the two pads in the upper right corner. I'ts hard to tell from the pic, but you didn't by chance drag a trail of melted solder across to the other joint, did you? If so, remove the short.

The gun you referr to wasn't a high wattage (700W) pistol type, was it? If so, you may have fried a component or two on the other side of the board. That's why I recommended using a pencil type soldering pencil.

If you added solder it should have been rosin core solder for electronics work, not acid core used for metal working. BTW, the brown rings are most likely rosin that has cooked out of the solder and should be OK.

The joints should look smooth and almost shiny. Some of yours look all cratered like the moon. You may want to touch those up. Apply heat just long enough to melt the solder. You will see a rapid change in the sheen of the solder when this happens. As soon as it does that, remove the tip of the soldering pencil from the joint and let the joint cool a few seconds before moving anything.

If the main relay still doesn't work after this, check your fuses in case you popped one because of the solder bridge I mentioned at the beggining of my reply. If everything else checks out OK, it's time to buy a new relay.

 

naw, i didnt trail between the two connectors... The camera just pics up a lot more than the naked eye.... to my eye, it looks fine .. lol, but the picture makes everything look pretty scarry... lol

How exactly do these things work??? Is the green like an insulator, and the underneath metal connects certain points????

If two of the posts had soder connecting them, but they remained in the same strip of metal on the board is this ok, or does it cause a short????