Forged Piston noise after install....
ok well i just ran a compression test after doing a valve adjustment. the numbers that i got after 4 cranks were 165 +or- 5psi in each cylinder. AFter 7-8 cranks i got 190 +or- 5psi in each cylinder, i know this is low but i also have the 9:1 pistons in there so im sure that effects it also. At least they are all consistent.
On a side note, i had some oil on the tip of each of the spark plugs...who knows
On a side note, i had some oil on the tip of each of the spark plugs...who knows
i really dont see how it can be a rod knock or even low oil pressure...i didnt change anything thru the oiling system and it didnt happen before the break down...but im gonna check oil press tomorrow...anyone have any thoughts on those compression #s? keep in mind i have 9:1 pistons
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ChillOutWayne »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">CP 9:1 pistons and Eagle H-beam rods</TD></TR></TABLE>
it probably is a clearance issue inside the piston bore, but fwiw, even if the piston/bore measurements are within spec, you could still have piston slap noise.
most cast factory pistons have offset piston pins: http://www.acl.com.au/web/acl0...ument to control the noise when the engine is cold.
while that probably wouldn't apply to your forged pistons, if it does, and they are installed backwards, there could be noise from that as well... i believe that the offset should be the opposite of the direction of engine rotation.
some factory cars also have offset rods that must be installed in the proper direction... the eagle rods that you have will most likely not be offset... i don't know if factory honda rods have an offset.
it probably is a clearance issue inside the piston bore, but fwiw, even if the piston/bore measurements are within spec, you could still have piston slap noise.
most cast factory pistons have offset piston pins: http://www.acl.com.au/web/acl0...ument to control the noise when the engine is cold.
while that probably wouldn't apply to your forged pistons, if it does, and they are installed backwards, there could be noise from that as well... i believe that the offset should be the opposite of the direction of engine rotation.
some factory cars also have offset rods that must be installed in the proper direction... the eagle rods that you have will most likely not be offset... i don't know if factory honda rods have an offset.
how concerned should i be with this noise? im goin boost within a few months and wanna make sure its ready for it...again i just hear it at idle levels and below 3k, and the car runs great, and compression is constant with the test...the sound is almost not noticeable outside the car above 1k and really only noticeable inside below 2k...i had a mechanic listen to it today at work and he said it sounded normal for a forged pistons setup...im hoping he is right
well i changed the oil again today at about 300 miles and i let it run for about 5 mins then shut down and checked the level...there was NO oil on the dipstick. so i changed it and the oil looked like crap, there was no gold in the oil and it looked greyish light blackish kinda, and this is after maybe 130 miles on that oil...so i changed it and put in 10w 30 as opposed to the 5w30 that was in there. i called this garage that works on all imports around here and stuff and he said that the coloration is normal because of the break-in and the assembly lube and watever else is in the motor as it cleans out. also he said that the consumption could be normal too during break in and keep a close eye starting around 500-750 miles...we will see, i hope he is right
190 sounds abut right for a 9:1 engine.its a good idea to check the oil when the engine is cold.Ask sommeone to follow you and check if you are leaving a trail of smoke when you are driving...
hey thanx for the info, i appreciate it...yea im just a hair below 400 miles now and the motor has seen up to about 6500 maybe 3 times with good pulls...it pulls steady and smooth with no smoke or noise about 3k. at idle it is still there tho, but im not burning any smoke and achieved near exact numbers thru compression test...im hoping its safe for boost and safe for wat its got coming to it, thanx for the replies guys...any other thoughts?
well i guess i kinda got an update, im at mile 700 now and everything is going well...most of the turbo kit is pulled together and gonna be ready withing a month or so. Heres the other info i have, today i ran into a kid i know though another kid, and he has a 00 Si with a Turbo and hes runnin JE 9:1, Ealge H rods and such, anyway his motor pretty much sounds the same as mine, i can hear a similiar noise outside the car and he said he hasnt had any problems with the turbo on for a year. just kinda reassuring myslef here, as im concerned after putting so much time and money into this operation. thanx for reading, any thoughts?
Justin's motor went for quite a while and put up good compression numbers, but underneath it all, the motor was broke as hell. They can take quite a beating before completely giving in and pouring smoke.
The #1 cylinder developed a 3/4" long vertical crack so we had to ditch the block b/c he didn't wanna have it resleeved.
The #1 cylinder developed a 3/4" long vertical crack so we had to ditch the block b/c he didn't wanna have it resleeved.
just FYI, it is VERY common for forged internals to sound like desiel truck.
The gray color was moly lube from the build up, perfectly normal
Just check oil consuption, you should be straight.
Compression #'s are good, and oil consuption shouldnt be to bad
The noise is perfectly normal though.
The gray color was moly lube from the build up, perfectly normal
Just check oil consuption, you should be straight.
Compression #'s are good, and oil consuption shouldnt be to bad
The noise is perfectly normal though.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IN VTEC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Justin's motor went for quite a while and put up good compression numbers, but underneath it all, the motor was broke as hell. They can take quite a beating before completely giving in and pouring smoke.
The #1 cylinder developed a 3/4" long vertical crack so we had to ditch the block b/c he didn't wanna have it resleeved.</TD></TR></TABLE>
im sorry to sound retarded, but who is Justin? i think maybe im just tired but im kinda lost...but thanx for the reply
The #1 cylinder developed a 3/4" long vertical crack so we had to ditch the block b/c he didn't wanna have it resleeved.</TD></TR></TABLE>
im sorry to sound retarded, but who is Justin? i think maybe im just tired but im kinda lost...but thanx for the reply
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by irev210 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just FYI, it is VERY common for forged internals to sound like desiel truck.
The gray color was moly lube from the build up, perfectly normal
Just check oil consuption, you should be straight.
Compression #'s are good, and oil consuption shouldnt be to bad
The noise is perfectly normal though.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanx alot for the reply, and reading that makes me feel alot better. I was assuming the greyish color was from the moly lube too, but even after like 4 oil changes and 700 miles? also i dont seem to be consuming any oil yet (knock on wood). thanx again
The gray color was moly lube from the build up, perfectly normal
Just check oil consuption, you should be straight.
Compression #'s are good, and oil consuption shouldnt be to bad
The noise is perfectly normal though.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanx alot for the reply, and reading that makes me feel alot better. I was assuming the greyish color was from the moly lube too, but even after like 4 oil changes and 700 miles? also i dont seem to be consuming any oil yet (knock on wood). thanx again
Forged pistosn require different clearnaces for different uses. If you told your machinist that the motor was going to be a turbo motor, he will have set the clearances to accomodate the increase piston expansion due to the higher combustion temperatures with the turbo. However, you are still NA, and the combustion temperatures are lower, thus the pistons don't expand as much and you get some rocking of the piston in the bore. This is where the noise comes from. The rocking will hurt the cylinder wall over the long run, like 50,000 miles. This is why OEM cars don't come with these super strong froged pistons, beacuse the want more than 50,000 miles out of their motors.
Mike
Mike
thanx for the responds again guys...yea the machinist just got the spec sheet that came with the CP pistons that called for final bore of 3.209 with 3 thousands clearance for the piston/wall...he said he went right to that, so im going off of that...any other thoughts
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ChillOutWayne »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
im sorry to sound retarded, but who is Justin? i think maybe im just tired but im kinda lost...but thanx for the reply
</TD></TR></TABLE>
All the pics and movies are from Justin's ITR. I couldn't remember if I had given his name and association precedence before.
im sorry to sound retarded, but who is Justin? i think maybe im just tired but im kinda lost...but thanx for the reply
</TD></TR></TABLE>All the pics and movies are from Justin's ITR. I couldn't remember if I had given his name and association precedence before.
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