A/F tuning with A/F guage?
Ok, let me start out by saying, I bought a cheap A/F gauge just to see if my car was running rich/ lean not to try and fine tune it. Anyways, come to find out my car runs rich pretty much all the time, I do have a B&M adjustable FPR, which I fiddled with, but the gauge doesn't ever change in sync with my adjustments. Is it possible to lean out the car too much and the gauge won't show it? If anyone could just fill me in a little that would be awesome.
Also I assumed that if you turn the FPR counter clockwise thats making the a/f leaner?
Setup:OBD-0 b16, CTR cams, IM, TB, exhaust, intake
Also I assumed that if you turn the FPR counter clockwise thats making the a/f leaner?
Setup:OBD-0 b16, CTR cams, IM, TB, exhaust, intake
Lemme get this right.. your attempting to do some "tuning" to your car by adjusting your fuel pressure regulator and watching your narrow band? If so you need 3 main things.. a good engine management system like Hondata, a good wideband air/fuel gauge, and a professional tuner. Tuning is probably the most important part of your build, do not mess around with it.
Good luck w/ everything, you don't have a bad little setup there.
Good luck w/ everything, you don't have a bad little setup there.
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Oh because Hondata, like an S300, is complete junk. Wonder what you have to say about all the cheapskates running freeware software setups on they're half *** setups.
To the OP, your narrow band isn't going to reflect much of anything honestly, except like ddd4114 said, a mostly random output of lights. Sell the narrowband and get a good wideband and the rest of the parts to be able to have your car properly tuned by a professional.
Best of luck
To the OP, your narrow band isn't going to reflect much of anything honestly, except like ddd4114 said, a mostly random output of lights. Sell the narrowband and get a good wideband and the rest of the parts to be able to have your car properly tuned by a professional.
Best of luck
A narrow bands purpose is to allow the ecu to stabilize air/fuel at idle and part throttle modes. A narrow band was designed to indicate stoich (14.7:1) and really nothing more. Under wide opened throttle, a motor that is n/a or forced induction will always need more fuel than stoich would allow in order to make peak power, essentially making your narrowband gauge always read rich. The last thing you want to do is globally reduce the amount of fuel the motor sees by reducing fuel pressure. Stop what your doing.
Narrowband gauges are nothing more than lightshows and to fill the pillar pod. Your space is better filled by an autometer clock gauge so you can tell what time it is.
Narrowband gauges are nothing more than lightshows and to fill the pillar pod. Your space is better filled by an autometer clock gauge so you can tell what time it is.
Even better, go on the computer and print a picture of an Autometer gauge. Then, just cut it out and attach it to the pod with a glue stick. It will be just as useful and will cost much less.
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JDM_ego2033
Engine Management and Tuning
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Apr 23, 2018 05:16 AM







