Hey guys, looking for some input on a bit of engine trouble I am having.

Symptoms:
Some times rough idle
some times gasoline smell
while driving on HW lost almost all power
poor acceleration

This is on my 00 Toyota corolla, it has about 140k on the clock and really hasn't had too much mechanical issues. I replaced the acc belts and valve cover gasket a while ago and no problems since then. It does leak a little oil but I am usually on top of the levels, regular changes w/ full syn every ~5k.

All of a sudden while driving on the HW I was slowing down and giving it more gas wasn't helping.

Looking for some input / thoughts about what the problem could be.

Here are the tests I ran and results.
Dry compression;
1: 138, 2: 30, 3: 160, 4: 35
Wet Compression
2: 45, 4: 50
Leak Down
2: 90% and 4: 85%

While doing the leak down on both those cylinders at TDC, I could hear air rushing out, for #2 I am pretty sure it was adj cylinders and #4 I know it was adj because I could feel it.

I did not see bubbles in the radiator, nothing from the tailpipe, or oil dipstick, or oil fill on valve cover.

I am thinking blown head gasket, any thoughts?
I checked codes multiple times and I have an exhaust canister code, no misfire, nothing else.

I attached a pic of the plugs and coils, in the order they were in the engine. Can you tell anything from the plugs?

 

Those are some reallllly low numbers. Is there any coolant in your oil or vice versa? Are you having to add coolant?

 

Will double check. Yeah I was optimistic after cyl 1, then like oh **** on cyl 2. I have not had to add a lot of coolant, dont remember when the last time I added any but will double check if its low also.

 

so it sounds like the head is coming off no matter what is wrong......

 

Is it safe to assume you checked your mechanical timing ? It's possible you jumped teeth.

 

It's not the head gasket. My money is on exhaust valves

 

Ya, my guess would be in the valve assembly.

 

Cool, what should I be looking for, stuck / damaged valves. I am going to have to take the head off any way I suppose so I will replace the head gasket then.

 

Update, so I got some time to work on it. I thought I would be slick and take the cams off without taking the timing chain cover, etc.. off, until I realized I needed to take the timing chain cover off so I could separate the head from the block.... Some pics of how far I got. Question, the studs that stick out from the intake / exhaust manifold look like they have a male torx on the end, are you supposed to remove these first, I foresee them causing issues when taking the head off. From the pic does anything look wrong with the valves?

 

Replace the chain and guides while youre in there, as they are prone to failure. (have you noticed a rattling noise on start up when cold?)



Those are not the valves, those are the tappets. The valves are underneath. That engine rarely has valve issues and usually has t-chain issues and or head gasket failures.



Take the head off and send it to a shop for a proper leak down test. Also if the head is surfaced,the valves have to be adjusted. This is done via shims,if you are incapable of measuring and purchasing the proper shims, you'll wanna ask the machine shop to do it for you....(it will also need to be done if the valves are burned.)

 

No issues with starting, just rough idle sometimes and loss of power now. No rattling either. I am not familiar with any particular issues with this engine, however, I was kind of wanting to go all the way with the timing issue. The motor has about 139k on it. I am thinking if I change the chain and guides, I might as well do the water pump also and check the engine seals for leaking?
Cool, I'll get the head off and see what it looks like, post some pics.

 

well i broke the vvt control valve, got all the head bolts loose and out, except one, that is now stripped. Any suggestions on extractors, I was looking at the irwin multispline set.

 

Which bolt is stripped? Passenger side, rear?

 

Yeah, see the attached picture. I am pretty sure, at least hoping, that I broke it loose before I stripped it. I just bought this 35 PIECE MASTER EXTRACTOR SET MEX35 | Matco Tools off ebay so I am hoping that will work to get it out all the way. I just dont have any room to get any other tools in there.

 

Update, finally got enough time together to get this thing apart, doesnt seem like it would be that hard but it was kind of a PITA. I ended getting an extractor set and was able to get the striped head bolt out, thank god! See the pictures, not sure what I am looking at though, besides a lot of carbon build up. It doesn't look like the head gasket was blown and know of the valves appear to be stuck. Cylinder walls look pretty good, just the one shitty picture, it was starting to get dark so I will get a better look in the daylight. What do you all think. I still need to test for warping.

 

Another update. So I tested the valves to see if they leaked, my god, some of them were leaking a small stream. Kudos on the previous posters calling for leaky valves. I also checked for warping and it was within spec on the cylinder head.

Would there be any reason to check the block for warping? So whats the next step, clean it up, lap the valves, put it back together? I was thinking of pulling the pistons and putting new rings in since I am so close, or is that over kill?

 

Another update, made some good progress. Got the pistons out, head and block checked and they are good. Cleaning is almost all done, just need to order some replacement parts. Any suggestions on manufacture? I am looking at RA and they have some DNJ, ITM, etc... I did read DNJ was iffy so I was trying to avoid them. What about nuts / bolts, where do you all pick these up?

 

Update, got the valves cleaned off, the intake all look pretty good. I am concerned about the exhaust valves. Take a look at the pictures. None of the surfaces feel pitted, even though they look like it. The seats on the head haven't been cleaned beyond being washed.

 

Save yourself a headache and order everything you need from Toyota.

 

Didn't you say the valves were leaking? Did you take care of that?

 

Do you mean from the dealership or just OEM from another site? I could check out the dealership just for price comparison.

Not yet, I got the head and valves cleaned, I just need to finish going over the valve seats with a brass brush, then I am going to lap the valves and see how well they look / seal. At that point I will know if I need new seats / valves.

 

Got another update. Progress so far; oil pan / gasket surfaces are clean. Valve seats are clean and look to be in good condition. I worked on cleaning the valves up a bit more and I am going to replace at least 2 of the exhaust valves with some pretty deep pitting. I am about 75% done cleaning the pistons. I am really glad I pulled the pistons, they were full of carbon build up, most pistons had 2-3 oil holes plugged so bad i needed to use a drill bit to get it out. After I finishing cleaning up the pistons I am going to deglaze the cylinders, then start buying the replacement parts and reassemble.