you have a turbo timer?

 

no

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mikey3000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">alright, i just tested the ignition switch at the 2 harnesses for continuity like that diagram shows and all tests checked out OK. it seems like what is happening is; when the car actually gets started with the key, and is turned back to the #2 or #1 or off position, the ignition wires are staying charged with power. i do have some gauges tapped into the yellow (IG2) wire, do you think this might be screwing something up. another thought i have is that i grounded both my fuel pump and the relay for the fuel pump to the same ground. is that bad practice and could that have anything to do with this? on the other hand i've been having this problem BEFORE i hooked up this fuel system.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't like grounding them on the same ground. Just preference. Also, bypass the relay and see if your car shuts off then.

 

rather than continue to chase this problem can i just wire in a master cutoff switch to cut power to the fuse box?

 

These mid 90's Honda/Acura cars all have suspect ignition switches. The contacts inside the switches start to wear, resistance increases as the contacts wear, which accelerates the pitting, arcing, and wear. A worn switch can overheat to the point of melting the solder holding the wires to the terminals. Depending on which terminals are worn, the symptoms can be radically different. Anything from, will crank and start to fire, but will not stay running, to intermittantly dies completely, while driving down the road. Based on my personal experience with these switches, if the car has more than 60000 miles on it, I would start troubleshooting by taking the plastic off the steering column, and inspecting the terminals on the switch. If there is any sign of overheating, dripping solder, or discoloration, you can carefully remove the switch from the key cylinder, and replace it. You can buy the switch separate from the lock cylinder for $ 35-$40. Don't ask how I know all this! http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq....html

 

i would really love to believe that it is my ignition switch but my testing of it had me come to the conclusion that the switch is ok. i didn't notice any melting of the solder that holds the harness to the switch, although i didn't open it up to check those contacts out. i appreciate your post though.

 

I will say I know from first hand experience, wiring up your relay the way you had it, my car did the same thing when I put a relay in-line where you did. The car would continue to run for about 10 seconds after I shut the car off.

 

so how would you suggest that i wire it?

 

update: today i tried a different ignition switch (the part with the harness) and i'm still getting the same result, the main power still stays on. i don't think this has anything to do with my new fuel pump install or its relay. i pulled the PGM-FI relay and tested it according to helms and it checked out fine. something else i did try was: i disconnected the ground that goes from the transmission mount to ground, and the fuel pump doesn't prime...BUT when i turn the key back to the OFF position, the power does turn OFF like its supposed to. anyone have any thoughts about this?

 

sorry to bring up an extremely old thread but I'm having the exact same issue and am wondering if you ever figured out what was going on???

 

Really? You have a built turboed H22 in a 92 CX racecar?

 

no sir not talking about his setup, just talking about the problem