/thread.


Modified by michaeljenkins at 3:32 PM 4/30/2008


Modified by michaeljenkins at 3:34 PM 4/30/2008

 

You need to give better detail about what's happening. When you say it won't crank I think that they starter won't turn over the motor. Is that what's happening or is the starter turning the motor fine, but the motor just won't start up? What does it sound like then you try and start the car? And your mechanic timed the car, and made sure that you do have spark output at the spark plugs, right? And he said you have fuel to your fuel injection... what the hell does that mean? Did he test your injectors or did he just check fuel pressure?

I know I asked a lot of questions, but try and answer them all and I can try to help to the best of my knowledge.

I would guess that if the car died while you were driving it would be your ignition, but if that was checked and all is good, then my next guess would be fuel. we'll figure it out, get back to me and we'll see what we come up with.

 

/thread.


Modified by michaeljenkins at 3:33 PM 4/30/2008

 

You either have the D15B1 or D15b2, essentially the same motor. Just look on the front of your motor down below the header right next to where the tranny and engine block bolt together and there is a flat machined surface with lettering and some numbers on it. You will see either one of those engine codes on there. Your mechanic should be able to look it up with your VIN too, cmon what kind of mechanic is he??
Ok, your injectors are on the back of your intake manifold. There two of them and I think they're one on top of the other. They are right up against your firewall. I would check them to see if they're both working correctly.
Did your mechanic check your cam timing? Did your timing belt jump a couple teeth? that would explain the weird sounds while cranking.
What exactly happened when the car died on you?

 

/thread.


Modified by michaeljenkins at 3:33 PM 4/30/2008

 

buy a new car

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondacivic03 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">buy a new car</TD></TR></TABLE> Whoa, man, now that's some good advice. ****, yeah do that!
You're a douche bag, why not help the guy out or don't post at all.

Testing your injectors is easy if you have the right tools. You'll need a good DVOM (digital volt ohm meter). The way you test injectors is use the Ohms (resistance) setting on the DVOM and unplug the connector on your injectors and check the resistance across the two prongs in the injector itself (not the harness). If you have a helm's repair manual then look up what the resistance should be, I'm sorry i don't remember off hand, but if need be I can look it up for you. Then if the resistance checks out fine, test your injectors for amperage flow. Do this by using some jumper leads from your battery to the injector and to your DVOM. Put one lead from your positive battery terminal to the injector and the other negative lead you your DVOM test lead. Then just touch the other test lead of your DVOM to the second injector prong and look at the amperage flow with your DVOM set to DC Amps of course. Using Ohm's law figure out what the Amperage should be with the resistance value you find in the manual and the 12 V from the battery. If the amperage checks out too then your injectors are good to go.

If that's too complicated for ya I suggest finding a good mechanic who knows Hondas. They shouldn't be hard to find. But your Ford mechanic just doesn't know enough about Hondas to get this one figured out. If I could help you out I would, I'm sure it's an easy fix as most Honda problems are. Good luck man, again keep us posted.

 

/thread.


Modified by michaeljenkins at 3:33 PM 4/30/2008

 

No problem. Good Luck Dood.

 

/thread.


Modified by michaeljenkins at 3:33 PM 4/30/2008

 

Decent amount of air coming out while cranking??
that's funny. I'm guessing they think your exhaust is plugged. The car would likely start up, but wouldn't run for very long. But it would try to start at least. I highly doubt that's the problem.
An alternated ECU or dizzy aren't bad ideas. It's just trial and error, but again I really think it's a problem with fuel delivery. I'd start with injectors. If your mechanic tested your spark output and it's good then the other part of the car not running would be fuel. And with the way you described your car dying that really says a problem with fuel.
Did your mechanic test your fuel pressure and fuel pump? That would be a very likely cause of this too.

but if you've got an ecu or dizzy to through in, go ahead and try it. I mean why not? But if that doesn't fix the problem I'd go after fuel pressure, fuel pump, and your injectors. Don't forget to look at your fuel pump relay as well. those are easy to test.

 

/thread.


Modified by michaeljenkins at 3:33 PM 4/30/2008

 

it's not clogged, checked out fine, tried a different ecu, still no change.i still can't find my fuel injectors, i looked around the fuel injection, on the left side near the firewall, everywhere, even if i see them probably, i wont know what im looking at.. and with some luck if i find them, i wont know how to take them out.

can't i just remove part of them and see if the fuel sprays correctly when i try and crank it?

could this be a cylionoid problem?

 

bump.

 

/thread.


Modified by michaeljenkins at 3:33 PM 4/30/2008

 

hey man,
The fuel injectors (there's only two of them for your motor) are on the back side of the intake manifold directly under that black box on top of the manifold. They're right next to the firewall, but under that box. I wouldn't recommened trying to pull them out and look at them to see if they're spraying. It would cause a mess and may damage your injectors.
I know I've been throwing a lot of stuff at you, but honestly sorting out fuel issues is for a trained mechanic or someone with enough experience. No offense, but it sounds like you may not be up to the task. I would search around for a good mechanic that knows hondas. There are a ton of them in each town, so I'm sure it won't be too hard for you. If you want to just stick with Ford mechanic that's cool. It's not that hard to figure this out. I would have him check your fuel pressure first. There's no shrader valve on hondas so he'll have to hook up his fuel pressure gauge inline. If you've got good fuel pressure then it's not the pump, a clog, or the main relay (the main relay controls your fuel pump and a few other things, that very well might be your problem.) If you have good fuel pressure then check your injectors like I told you before, but if there's no fuel pressure then it's the pump, main relay, or something in the power feed circuit for the pump.

Have fun man. Feel free to keep asking questions.

 

/thread.


Modified by michaeljenkins at 3:33 PM 4/30/2008

 

OK this guy was helping you out and because no one jumped to your spoiled spoon fed **** within a few hours of your bump we are all "[freak]ing dicks", and half of us don't know **** anyways....

You bumped your question within an hour of posting it. If you took that time to search and learn something for yourself your problem would probably be fixed by now.

I suggest you take the silver spoon out of your mouth and forcibly insert it into your anus repeatedly. After your done {expletive}ing yourself some more take your car back to your Ford mechanic and figure out your own problems, a mechanic that can't even find injectors is a good one for sure!

and good luck!

 

/thread.


Modified by michaeljenkins at 3:33 PM 4/30/2008

 

I'm really glad someone else has nothing better to do than to spoon feed you! If you can't afford to have the car fixed and you have no idea how to fix it yourself. And it take s you a week to find out that your rotor was bad. I think it's time to choose a more reliable mode of transportation for your current situation..... maybe a bicycle!

 

/thread.


Modified by michaeljenkins at 3:32 PM 4/30/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GhostAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm really glad someone else has nothing better to do than to spoon feed you! If you can't afford to have the car fixed and you have no idea how to fix it yourself. And it take s you a week to find out that your rotor was bad. I think it's time to choose a more reliable mode of transportation for your current situation..... maybe a bicycle! </TD></TR></TABLE>
Why do you have to take a stab at me? No reason for that. Sorry this guy is ranting and raving a bit, but cmon no reason to assume I have "nothing else better to do than spoon feed someone".
You giving this forum a bad name, by bashing others on here.

 

My post was in no way aimed at you. You were the one helping him out on this site, but I was talking about his buddies on the other website. The ones that he said walked him through everything step by step. You know, The ones that supposedly solved the problem that he already mentioned from the start. Then he comes back in here and bashes on this site because no one wanted to take his hand and baby sit. That's all I was getting at. He started by coming in and bashing the folks on this site.

The way I see it you get what you ask for on here. If you don't give enough info or stretch the truth a bit you will end up get half answers or people will start in the wrong place for diagnosing the problem. That's why this took a week to find the problem. This guy comes in here saying that he checked all this stuff, and that his next step is to check the Dizzy. So you assumed fuel and lead him that way. In the end he never checks his dizzy until the end and low and behold it's his rotor....well what a dumb *** he is for saying one thing and not doing it. Dumbass!

I apologize to you Ahknodd if you though I was referring to you in my previous post.

 

Ok, it's all good. Thanks man.