i am wondering if i need to replace the main cap bolts when rebuilding my b18b or are the oem ones good enough??? also is it a good idea to get a block guard installed for higher rpm's (9000) or will it be able to hold well enough?? i wont be taking it that high very often just when i take it to the strip or just to screw around every now and then........thanks

 

any1??

 

i wouldnt take a ls motor to 9000 rpms, even built, the block was not made to rev that high.

 

so then wat about the main cap bolts are they good just keeping them the originals or should i have changed them??? its pretty much to late now but i would like to know for future reference.............thanks

 

If you are planning on exceeding the RPM for a particular engine, I would go with new aftermarket ones for the application. I have even used main studs which are much better, however, I don't even know if you can get the for a Honda... I am sure you can though.

If you are looking to make serious high end power, you should have the mains line bored anyway. So you can discuss options with your machinist at that point.

 

sooo the answer is that the original ones that came in the block are just fine????

 

Your question is not complete...

WHy are you wanting to turn 9k? If everything you are building is stock, you will stop making horsepower at 7Kish.

If you are going to run a lot of boost, you have to build the bottom end to accept it.

So your answer is really dependant on how much HP you are trying to make, and at what RMP range you are going to make it.

So, that given, if you plan on removing and running over the rev limit, then yes, you will need to strengthen the mains and rods.

If you are merely removing the rev limiter to go to higher RPM, then you are doing it for the wrong reason becuase you will not make power at that RPM band with stock internals.

If you are running stock internals, then the stock bolts are fine.

I hope this helps.

 

ok............i have srp pistons 10.5:1 compression..............I also have eagle rods and i also have comp cams that are good up to 8800 rpms..............i also have ferra valve train good up to 11000 rpms........... with an AEBS intake manifold good up to 8000 rpms ........... i will be send in the ecu to a company to get chipped for my build.............i just would like to take the motor as high as possible without hurting it when i take it to the drag strip but if the main cap bolts are not strong enough then I wont take it that high.........hopefully that was enough information........sorry i didnt give this info before

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Youlose1305 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok............i have srp pistons 10.5:1 compression..............I also have eagle rods and i also have comp cams that are good up to 8800 rpms..............i also have ferra valve train good up to 11000 rpms........... with an AEBS intake manifold good up to 8000 rpms ........... i will be send in the ecu to a company to get chipped for my build.............i just would like to take the motor as high as possible without hurting it when i take it to the drag strip but if the main cap bolts are not strong enough then I wont take it that high.........hopefully that was enough information........sorry i didnt give this info before </TD></TR></TABLE>

Don't be cheap and not replace the main bolts especially with all the expensive parts you have already invested in.

10.5:1 compression is a bit low for an engine that is going to rev that high. I don't think you'll be able to make any power up there. Did you pick the cam from a catalog or did comp cams recommend it?

I also don't think you are going to be revving it to 9000 rpm very many times. Thats a bit over 5000 (SFPM) surface feet per minute for an engine with an 88mm stroke. That's about what a Formula 1 engine runs. I'm not saying you can't do it, it just seems like an accident waiting to happen.

 

ya i was thinking about it........and now it doesnt seem like its really gonna help anything taking it just a littler bit higher. The guy that is putting together my head said that i should get the comp cams and told me that i can not replace the main bolts now that i bored the block???? ya and i dont want no accident to happen since i just put a lot of money into it........thanks for the help

 

Can't replace the main bolts because you bored the block?!?

 

well the guy has been building motors for awhile so im sure he knows what he is talking about but i really have no idea.........what you think???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Youlose1305 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well the guy has been building motors for awhile so im sure he knows what he is talking about but i really have no idea.........what you think???</TD></TR></TABLE>

Either you misunderstood him or he is wrong. There is no reason you can't use new bolts because he bored the block.

 

he was saying that it will screw up the alignment or some ****...............he said they should be good though just using the stock ones????

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Youlose1305 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">he was saying that it will screw up the alignment or some ****...............he said they should be good though just using the stock ones????</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats not true and what does a set of good main bolts cost versus how much you have already spent. Fasteners are not an area you want to skimp on.

 

so what do i need to replace??? do you know pricing on the stuff?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Youlose1305 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">he was saying that it will screw up the alignment or some ****...............he said they should be good though just using the stock ones????</TD></TR></TABLE>

I just had a thought. I think what he was saying is that since he didn't use the ARP main studs while boring the block if you use them now the bores may distort a little. I don't know how much of a difference it will make. The only way to find out is to install them and measure the bores. The ARP stud kit is about $80.

 

Two words:

ARP Bolts

 

well he told me its too late now and its just reference for next time!!!! i dont think i wnat to chance something like that........just keep it the way it is for now.........

 

thanks for all the help but i dont think i need them i have talked to a few other people in town and they siad the bolts will be fine just as long as i dont abuse it!