I know on the newer model car the engine ECU needs to see a confirmation that the coil is firing in order to send an injector pulse.

I just completed an DX to VTEC wiring conversion. This includes wiring up the cylinder sensor, crank position sensor, 2 extra injectors, and the injector resistor box.

Car has fuel pressure but not getting to the plugs so no injector pulse.
No Spark at the Distributor cap.

THANKS JASON

 

im havin the same damn problem bump!!

i did a si to vtec (almost same thing) and i have no spark
im getting power to the dizzy and ground also but no spark

 

What wiring harness did you use, Hopefully you used the factory SI one that came on the car

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxhybrid1320 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Car has fuel pressure but not getting to the plugs so no injector pulse.
No Spark at the Distributor cap.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm not sure, but I think if the ECU doesn't see the tach signal, it will also stop the fuel pump.

Try this... Unplug the distributor & try again. See if the fuel pump quits after a couple seconds. If so, and if the pump keeps running when the distributor is plugged in, then you know that the ECU is getting a tach signal.

If that's the case, you can start looking at the injector circuits.

 

There are two white wrires on the distribuor plug(7 wires).
Do not know what one goes where?Tried both ways but still nothing!
Want to get these two white wires fixed first.

Would a bad injector resistor box stop spark or just the injector pulse?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxhybrid1320 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...Would a bad injector resistor box stop spark or just the injector pulse?</TD></TR></TABLE>
A bad resistor box shouldn't stop the spark. But that's not quite what I was getting at.

All I was saying is that if the ECM didn't see a tach signal it would not only stop the injectors, but it would ALSO stop the fuel pump. You said your fuel pressure is OK, so that means your fuel pump keeps running. Past the 2 second priming. DOES IT?

If so, then you know that the ECM is seeing a tach signal. Or it's seeing whatever it needs to see from the distributor.

 

No it only kicks on for a few seconds. I have not check the actual pressure but when I disconnect the return line then turn the ignition on lots fuel comes out and seems to have alot of pressure.

What are the two white wrires on the distributor?
Maybe these two are switched or does it even matter?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxhybrid1320 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
No Spark at the Distributor cap.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
It may be a good idea to concentrate on the spark problem first.

 

yeah I know that.

What are the two white wiries for and does it matter if they are switched ??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxhybrid1320 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What are the two white wiries for and does it matter if they are switched ??
</TD></TR></TABLE>
What year and model is it?

 

Its an 88 Civic HB which had a 5 pin square disrtributor plug. Now it has a 1st generation B16 with the 7 pin round plug. I wires the 2 extra pins to c1 and c2 of the ECU. But when I did the wiring there were two solid white wires.
1 white wire--For the ignitor
The other white wire--?????

 

What's the b16 out of? I'll need to check an ETM.

 

jap spec 1st gen crx

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxhybrid1320 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">jap spec 1st gen crx</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sorry, I don't think I can help there.

 

88-91 B16