I recently had car troubles with my B18A in my teg. I had new plugs, wires, cap, rotor and fuel filter. The car still wouldn't start. My fuel pump would prime and the car would try and try to start, nothing. Would turn over, but wouldn't start. Smoke would come out the exhaust. I went to put in a new coil in and when I took the cap off a screw fell out and I could pull the rotor right off of the distributor. The damn screw that holds the rotor into place had fell out. Therefore, the distributor would spin inside of the rotor which = no spark. I am just saying that this could be overlooked quite often and since it is so simple to check, just add it to your troubleshooting list as one of the first things to check if your car won't start and you can't figure out why.

 

I feel ya. I had this problem too not to long ago.

 

Same thing happend to me while i was driving my car, I tought I blew my motor, but no. Screwing that thing in is alot better than swaping motors

 

It would have had to split the rotor into pieces or stripped it if the distributor shaft was spinning inside the rotor. The rotor is asymmetrically keyed.

 

happened on mine a while back too.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IN VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It would have had to split the rotor into pieces or stripped it if the distributor shaft was spinning inside the rotor. The rotor is asymmetrically keyed.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not all Honda distributors are like that. D15B's have a round shaft, and some others as well.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spoonin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I recently had car troubles with my B18A in my teg. I had new plugs, wires, cap, rotor and fuel filter. The car still wouldn't start. My fuel pump would prime and the car would try and try to start, nothing. Would turn over, but wouldn't start. Smoke would come out the exhaust. I went to put in a new coil in and when I took the cap off a screw fell out and I could pull the rotor right off of the distributor. The damn screw that holds the rotor into place had fell out. Therefore, the distributor would spin inside of the rotor which = no spark. I am just saying that this could be overlooked quite often and since it is so simple to check, just add it to your troubleshooting list as one of the first things to check if your car won't start and you can't figure out why. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I see my share of those. They're usually pretty easy to diagnose. A combination of popping out the exhast, intake or kicking back when cranking.

 

Same dam thing happened to me.But the only thing is the screw bounced around and screwed up **** in my disttributor.I had to get anotherjdm h22a one.

 

Happened to me a few years ago. I got it replaced for free at the dealer under some limited recall.

A dab of thread locker will help.

--
Tom

 

used to happen to several of my friends all the time then the screw finally broke all the way off and he had to start w/ a new dizzy.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aeolus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Same dam thing happened to me.But the only thing is the screw bounced around and screwed up **** in my disttributor.I had to get anotherjdm h22a one. </TD></TR></TABLE>Happened to to a few times.....messed up a cyp sensor or tdc sensor in my dizzy. Now I use a dab of loctite; just makes it hard to remove when needed to be replaced since those damn little screws are so easy to strip with ur phillip screwdriver

 

The wierd thing is the when checked for spark, it would still spark. I guess it spun the rotor enough to create a spark, but the spark timing was too far off to start the car. Cuz sometimes when I tried to start the car it would feel like it would almost start, but then it would just keep trying to turn over. This is very deceving. My friend is going to come over later and retap the hole for the rotor, I am gonna use some loctite this time

 

That is bullshit about the damn rotor not being assymetrically keyed. It would really help to put it back on right. We just rethreaded the screw whole and put a much longer screw in it (goes through the other side of the rotor, but not very far). That bitch ain't going anywheres, lol. Anyways, since it wasn't keyed together I put the rotor on upside down and the car wouldn't start. I had to take the whole damn thing apart again and put it on right, and then the car would start.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spoonin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I recently had car troubles with my B18A in my teg. I had new plugs, wires, cap, rotor and fuel filter. The car still wouldn't start. My fuel pump would prime and the car would try and try to start, nothing. Would turn over, but wouldn't start. Smoke would come out the exhaust. I went to put in a new coil in and when I took the cap off a screw fell out and I could pull the rotor right off of the distributor. The damn screw that holds the rotor into place had fell out. Therefore, the distributor would spin inside of the rotor which = no spark. I am just saying that this could be overlooked quite often and since it is so simple to check, just add it to your troubleshooting list as one of the first things to check if your car won't start and you can't figure out why. </TD></TR></TABLE>


yeap the dizzy is the most frequent breakdown part on
hondas, same as the coil and the ingnition module..