it's been gradually taking longer to fire after turning that key...used to crank and instantly start..now takes maybe 2,3 seconds until engine starts

is that commonly a starter problem? or fuel maybe?

my distributor is couple years old only, wires are pretty new..plugs are pretty new

i know my radiator is leaking a bit...as my thermostat failed..it's been replaced..but still leaking a little bit...and possibly leaking from water pump...not sure if this could cause of the engine start problem..

anyone..ideas?

oh ya..H23A...92 prelude sr/si

 

I know that 96-00 civics take longer to start when fuel level nears empty. The closer to empty the longer it takes... Your coolant leak will not harm your starting problems, a loose thermostat ground can cause an intermittent long crank or no start. Make sure the thermostat ground is properly secured (wires are black and there are more than two connected to the same bolt) Older honda's have problems with their PGM-FI relay during hot weather and hot starts. Hope this helps

 

See i always thought it was a Gas Problem..a Bad Connection crossed my mine a couple of times but never found anything...If the Problem still occurs after you Try what he said above you can try runing some injector threw the gas line, Or check the spark.

I could be Wrong...i learn more every day.

Spooks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1fast4g63 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know that 96-00 civics take longer to start when fuel level nears empty.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Same with all the 92-95s I've ever owned or worked on.

OP: Turn the key to run (the last stop before start, where the cluster lights up like a Christmas tree and all the warning chimes go on for a few seconds) and listen for the fuel pump to cycle. It's usually about 5 seconds of humming. After that, kick the key to start and magically, your car should start on the second crank like always.

If that's not it, start checking your plugs, fuel filter, etc.

 

If a fuel problem is perceived as a problem, check your fuel pressure. Don't have a fuel pressure gauge??? Buy some brake clean, remove intake pipe from throttle body, pinch fuel feed line (fuel filter to fuel rail, this will cut fuel from fuel pump but becareful when pinching. You want to use flat needle nose pliers, preferably without any teeth. Wrap a towel around the hose, then pinch) get a buddy to start the car while holding the throttle pedal to the floor then spray the brake cleaner through the throttle body. The car will start and will run until you stop spraying.

Other things to keep in mind are coils, cap and rotors, spark plugs and wires, distributors. Red dust underneath distributor dust shield means bad bearings, replace distributor not coil and igniter if they are good. Some times caps and rotors can be severely oxidized, this will give you a weak spark or no spark. I see a lot of coils with missing springs. At the very top of the coil tower, there will usually be a small spring. When missing, the coil will spark to the closest ground in the cap and will leave a white powder indicating an electrical arc. A poor/weak spark can give a long intermittent start. Spark plug wires will sometimes get pin holes. The electricity passing through the spark plug will look for the closest ground and escape before reaching the spark plug. White streaks, pin holes will indicate electric arking. In most cases an ignition problem/spark will appear under engine load and not at idle.

Take care of the visual inspection first before attempting to replace any parts. Hope this helps