ok im having such a problem fixing my timing with my zc...is there any tool out there that will stop the camgears from moving while i put the belt on and such?

 

ill post this in future reference for anybody else having problems doing the tbelt themselves with no power tools...

take off the valvecover, there are two holes on the cam tower and cam (1 per cam), put cam at TDC and then stick something in the hole to keep it lined up...i had no clue about this...

 

can you post a pic? I don't think I can do that when I change my water pump because the cam gears have to come off to get the water pump off on a B18C1.

 

you dont need to take your camgears off to change a waterpump...the waterpump is by the tensioner...

 

Well according to my Helm's, I have to remove the cover that sits behind the cam gears in order to get the water pump off, which would mean I have to take the gears off to get that cover off so I can get to the water pump bolts.

 

That little hole thing in the top just saved me alot of questioning! Thanks

Blaze

 

should the cam gears/crank be easily turned with the timing belt off?

I'm trying to replace it , and trying to line everything back up to TDC before it goes on, but nothing budges at all.

Is something screwed up?

 

The cam gears will show resistance depending on what valves are currently opened/closed. Don't be afraid to use a little muscle, as long as everything is torqued down.

Also, when lining everything up for TDC, I would recommend turning the intake cam a little bit in a clockwise direction. That way when you pull the timing belt taught over that gear and towards the exhaust cam gear, it will surely move and still be at TDC.

 

so just grab the things with my hands and turn, or put a socket/wrench on it and turn them over?

And what about the crank? How do I get that turned with the crank pulley already off? it's pretty much just the shaft right now

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxgator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ill post this in future reference for anybody else having problems doing the tbelt themselves with no power tools...

take off the valvecover, there are two holes on the cam tower and cam (1 per cam), put cam at TDC and then stick something in the hole to keep it lined up...i had no clue about this... </TD></TR></TABLE>
That works, but there is still alot of play in the cams. If you want to hold them solid try one of these. http://www.cam-lok.com/camlok.html There great if you do alot of t-belts.

 

Why did you move the stuff w/ the timing belt off? Did you do other stuff to the engine while the belt was off, or are you doing only a t-belt change? If just changing the timing belt, you should have left stuff where it was. Anyway, you can just thread the crank pulley bolt back into the hole while the pulley is still off, tighten it down (not all the way) and then use the bolt to turn the crank to TDC. You can also use a wrench or socket on the cam gear bolts to turn them. Be careful, if the cams and crank are way far off, you might have to turn each cam and crank a little at a time to keep pistons from hitting valves.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboD16Chiovnidca &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That works, but there is still alot of play in the cams. If you want to hold them solid try one of these. http://www.cam-lok.com/camlok.html There great if you do alot of t-belts. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i have something very similar to this and it work GREAT
http://www.matcotools.com/Cata...age=3
matco also carries the camlock one, but the one i posted will work with most DOHC engines (looks like the camlock one only works with specific ones, but i'm not 100% sure)
but anyways, if you're only doing the belt and not the water pump it will work perfect, just set to TDC put the tool on, loosen the tensioner, belt off, new belt on, and you're pretty much done.

edit: had the wrong page link