DIY: How to make fuel lines
>>http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=28527
Hey everyone...
I searched the board and didn't come up with any thread w/ pics on how to construct fuel
lines, so I thought may as well do a little writeup about the process. Although there
are lots of other useful and relevant threads, there wasn't any particular one which I
found that had a step-by-step how-to.
Materials & Tools List:
> -6AN Fuel Line Hose (Summit Racing) - 6 ft.
> Hose Ends, other fuel fittings
> Electrical Tape or other equivalent tape (to prevent SS wire braids from fraying)
>Bench Vise or Really strong friend
>Hacksaw or a Rotary Tool (Dremel, Craftsman rotary tool)
Process:
Step 1:
>>Take the fuel line and mark w/ electrical tape where you want it cut.
-When wrapping electrical tape on the hose, do a few or more passes around the place
marked for cutting.

Step 2:
>>Put the fuel line in a vice or get another person to hold the line in place while you
prepare to cut it.

>>Use a rotary tool to cut the fuel lines at the desired length.

>>This is what the line looks like afterwards.


Thing to be aware of:
-Be sure that cuts are clean and level so that when you push the fuel line through the
fitting, the inner rubber hose sits flushly against the inner radius of the fitting.
-Make sure that when you cut the fuel hose, that there is little fraying of those braided
wires. (They can be a bitch...)
-If you wrapped too much tape around the hose, you may want to take out a few layers, but
still leave it on. Some people will prefer just taking it off, but I think it better to
leave it on, since it forms a tighter fitting.
>>Now separate the fuel fitting ends...


>>Take a little bit of engine oil or any oil based lubricant and dab it on the cut fuel
hose end and the separated fitting end in which the fuel line is gonna go into.

>>Put the fitting end in the bench vise or in the hands of a capable friend, and slowly
begin to squeeze the fuel line in. If the metal wires are frayed, you might have to
retrim w/ the rotary tool or just use a small flat head screw driver to push the wires in
the fitting end while pushing the hose in. When you push the hose in, rotate it
slightly, as I found it a little easier to get into the fitting end.



-Check to see whether the fuel line is sitting flushly inside the fitting end. They
should be no gaps between the inner rubber hose and fitting end when fuel will be flowing
through.
- This is how the fuel line should look now.

>>Place the connected fuel line w/ fitting in the bench vise again and put th e male end
of the fuel fitting into the hose. Be sure the dab male fitting generously with oil to
help it slide through, without pushing the fuel line out the other end as you tighten
it.


Note: while sticking the male fuel fitting in the hose end, be sure to apply opposite
pressure by hold the fuel line tightly while in the bench vise in order to prevent it
from popping out when sticking in the male fitting end. A good way to do this is to just
simply pushing toward or firmly holding the fuel line in place...
>>Use an 18mm wrench to tighten the male fitting end into the hose. Be sure to tighten
it all the way, and lube as you need it. Do not over tighten the fitting, otherwise it
might break.

>>And here's the completed result...




Hey everyone...
I searched the board and didn't come up with any thread w/ pics on how to construct fuel
lines, so I thought may as well do a little writeup about the process. Although there
are lots of other useful and relevant threads, there wasn't any particular one which I
found that had a step-by-step how-to.
Materials & Tools List:
> -6AN Fuel Line Hose (Summit Racing) - 6 ft.
> Hose Ends, other fuel fittings
> Electrical Tape or other equivalent tape (to prevent SS wire braids from fraying)
>Bench Vise or Really strong friend
>Hacksaw or a Rotary Tool (Dremel, Craftsman rotary tool)
Process:
Step 1:
>>Take the fuel line and mark w/ electrical tape where you want it cut.
-When wrapping electrical tape on the hose, do a few or more passes around the place
marked for cutting.

Step 2:
>>Put the fuel line in a vice or get another person to hold the line in place while you
prepare to cut it.

>>Use a rotary tool to cut the fuel lines at the desired length.

>>This is what the line looks like afterwards.


Thing to be aware of:
-Be sure that cuts are clean and level so that when you push the fuel line through the
fitting, the inner rubber hose sits flushly against the inner radius of the fitting.
-Make sure that when you cut the fuel hose, that there is little fraying of those braided
wires. (They can be a bitch...)
-If you wrapped too much tape around the hose, you may want to take out a few layers, but
still leave it on. Some people will prefer just taking it off, but I think it better to
leave it on, since it forms a tighter fitting.
>>Now separate the fuel fitting ends...


>>Take a little bit of engine oil or any oil based lubricant and dab it on the cut fuel
hose end and the separated fitting end in which the fuel line is gonna go into.

>>Put the fitting end in the bench vise or in the hands of a capable friend, and slowly
begin to squeeze the fuel line in. If the metal wires are frayed, you might have to
retrim w/ the rotary tool or just use a small flat head screw driver to push the wires in
the fitting end while pushing the hose in. When you push the hose in, rotate it
slightly, as I found it a little easier to get into the fitting end.



-Check to see whether the fuel line is sitting flushly inside the fitting end. They
should be no gaps between the inner rubber hose and fitting end when fuel will be flowing
through.
- This is how the fuel line should look now.

>>Place the connected fuel line w/ fitting in the bench vise again and put th e male end
of the fuel fitting into the hose. Be sure the dab male fitting generously with oil to
help it slide through, without pushing the fuel line out the other end as you tighten
it.


Note: while sticking the male fuel fitting in the hose end, be sure to apply opposite
pressure by hold the fuel line tightly while in the bench vise in order to prevent it
from popping out when sticking in the male fitting end. A good way to do this is to just
simply pushing toward or firmly holding the fuel line in place...
>>Use an 18mm wrench to tighten the male fitting end into the hose. Be sure to tighten
it all the way, and lube as you need it. Do not over tighten the fitting, otherwise it
might break.

>>And here's the completed result...




<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blue92da »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">-If you wrapped too much tape around the hose, you may want to take out a few layers, but still leave it on. Some people will prefer just taking it off, but I think it better to leave it on, since it forms a tighter fitting.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Really? Where did that information come from?
Everything I've ever seen or heard about Aeroquip fittings says they should be assembled with AN fitting assembly lube (not engine oil) and that the outer braid should contact the fitting directly.
Reason? The e-tape allows the possibility of a hose blowout to be much greater than without. Think about it. The outer collar (red) grips the outer braid, the inner fitting (blue) just sits inside the hose. If the outer hose to fitting contact area can slip (like it can with e-tape) you can blow or pull out the hose.
Will it happen for sure? No.
Should you leave the e-tape on the hose? No.
Use an assembly tool instead...it makes things INFINITELY easier.
The right wrenches also help, as well as the vise inserts. They mostly keep the fittings pretty, but not marring the fittings helps keep them reusable longer.
My $0.02.
Really? Where did that information come from?
Everything I've ever seen or heard about Aeroquip fittings says they should be assembled with AN fitting assembly lube (not engine oil) and that the outer braid should contact the fitting directly.
Reason? The e-tape allows the possibility of a hose blowout to be much greater than without. Think about it. The outer collar (red) grips the outer braid, the inner fitting (blue) just sits inside the hose. If the outer hose to fitting contact area can slip (like it can with e-tape) you can blow or pull out the hose.
Will it happen for sure? No.
Should you leave the e-tape on the hose? No.
Use an assembly tool instead...it makes things INFINITELY easier.
The right wrenches also help, as well as the vise inserts. They mostly keep the fittings pretty, but not marring the fittings helps keep them reusable longer.
My $0.02.
Thanks for your input.
You know what assemly lube is? Oil. You can use any kind of lubricant that can help slide the fitting on the hose easily. You can get all fancy and start buying there products, but it essentially does the same thing.
If you look inside the red hose end fitting, once you squeeze the fuel line in there, there is NO way to squeeze the fuel line past the part of the threads, so the fuel line is NOT supposed to meet all the way at the end of the red fitting.
If you look at my pics, the one which I've separated the two fittings, the blue male fitting is supposed to fit all the way inside but is supposed to thread in all the way until it forms a perfect seal. With what you are saying, there would be no way to even tighten the blue fitting in the red fitting.
As for the tape part being left in there, many guys leave the tape on the hose itself because it forms are more snug fit, but as I said, its a personal preference. As for it sliding off the fitting under blow out, I don't think so. Not enough pressure in any Honda or walbro fuel pumps to be doing that unless if you didn't assemble the fuel line correctly at all.
You know what assemly lube is? Oil. You can use any kind of lubricant that can help slide the fitting on the hose easily. You can get all fancy and start buying there products, but it essentially does the same thing.
If you look inside the red hose end fitting, once you squeeze the fuel line in there, there is NO way to squeeze the fuel line past the part of the threads, so the fuel line is NOT supposed to meet all the way at the end of the red fitting.
If you look at my pics, the one which I've separated the two fittings, the blue male fitting is supposed to fit all the way inside but is supposed to thread in all the way until it forms a perfect seal. With what you are saying, there would be no way to even tighten the blue fitting in the red fitting.
As for the tape part being left in there, many guys leave the tape on the hose itself because it forms are more snug fit, but as I said, its a personal preference. As for it sliding off the fitting under blow out, I don't think so. Not enough pressure in any Honda or walbro fuel pumps to be doing that unless if you didn't assemble the fuel line correctly at all.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blue92da »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for your input.</TD></TR></TABLE>
No problem. It's probably me being **** after working on aircraft. I tend to err on the side of caution anyway.
As for oil being oil...not quite, but for you purposes, it's probably just fine.
No problem. It's probably me being **** after working on aircraft. I tend to err on the side of caution anyway.
As for oil being oil...not quite, but for you purposes, it's probably just fine.
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